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Trying to destory my SCC's: I can't do it!

Will Prowse

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So I took every EPEver/Victron/PWM/Renogy solar charge controller, and tried to fry it by connecting it only to solar panels, and not to a battery... guess which one survived?

EVERY SINGLE ONE! I couldn't destroy any of them, and I left them connected to a high voltage array (80 volts) for 4+ hours each.

I connected each one to a lifepo4 bank after the test, and they functioned perfectly. Tested output with a watt meter before and after as well, no change.

I read in the manuals that you must NEVER connect an SCC to an array without connecting it to a battery first, because the potential that it can fry. I know that having improper gauge wires on an SCC can cause overheating around the terminals (dedicated voltage sensing leads would probably fix this problem, but many SCC use the charging lines as voltage sensing, which makes it wise to over gauge them most times. The voltage drop of a long run of hot wire can be horrible). But to actually connect an array to an SCC, and not to a battery, in my experiments, no issue.

I am thinking that the feedback signal in the converter circuit needs a reference voltage at the output to work. Then it can track the power point between the panels resistance and internal resistance of the battery, then push current to the max. If you only have the input powered up but no current is flowing, what would it stress? The panel would be in an open circuit voltage, and possibly use some power to charge up caps on that side of the circuit, but thats about it. Should be fine to leave connected.

Am I wrong? I know some MPPT's circuit designs are pretty complex, but they are still a simple converter circuit with inductor and capacitor and basic logic system to modulate it. I know some current limited converters can handle amp sources at input/output, and others can't. but because the solar panel is open circuit in this instance, and the output is also voltage sensing of the battery, I don't think any damage can occur.

What do you guys think? How can I destroy one?
 
We certainly haven't figured it out yet either. Even with a PWM...

 
possibly the problem is when you connect (sparks ?) not after your are connected. So leaving it connected for hours does not count.
 
I have done this inadvertently plenty of times with my cheap china SCC's and my good Midnight Classics same thing never a problem. But i will find out for reals in a few weeks because I have 4 SCC in Idaho with no batteries hooked up to panels since December when my batteries died due to snow and clouds.
 
BTW, I rechecked the Midnite Classic's manuals and other docs, no mention whatsoever about the SCC being damaged if the batteries are disconnected. Now the Classics do use battery sense to determine the voltage when it boots up and it will not boot up without a battery being there. Now if there is no battery connected and say it goes to night and no power from the panels, will it stay running ? I dunno never been there but I would have my doubts that it would continue running without any power, so the next morning what would happen ?
 
I have Inadvertently done this a couple of times to both my epever 20a 24v mppt and Tumo-int 60a 24v. What happens in my case is that it won’t start charging the batteries unless I disconnect the panels first and then connect the battery first.
Btw this is the case with the epever. The tumo-int mppt did not brake but I never looked if it was charging or not before I reconnected it..
 
I have switches for battery and solar input. I have switched the battery side off (not on purpose) This was a Bogart SC2030 controller and a grape solar 40 amp controller. (I really should label them) Without any issues.
 
BTW, I rechecked the Midnite Classic's manuals and other docs, no mention whatsoever about the SCC being damaged if the batteries are disconnected. Now the Classics do use battery sense to determine the voltage when it boots up and it will not boot up without a battery being there. Now if there is no battery connected and say it goes to night and no power from the panels, will it stay running ? I dunno never been there but I would have my doubts that it would continue running without any power, so the next morning what would happen ?
Yes, the instructions for the cheap PWM controllers emphasize that you Must turn on the battery before the panels in order that the controller can figure out what Kind of battery you have (easier because they don't support Li batteries) and the voltage. How do they do that anyway?
 
I have had my solar array (~180V open circuit) connected to my Victron charge controller (SmartSolar MPPT 250/100) as well without a battery - no problems. Then again, for the cost of that one I wouldn't expect it any other way.
 
Over voltage on open circuit pv input is the only sure way i know of. Too high a voltage and when it connects likely to have issues containing too high a value on the boards, aside from frying internal relay contacts where used.

They will current limit, but could possibly be exposed to too much array wattage. Midnite suggests max 1.2 × max input wattage for long term reliability.
 
Over voltage on open circuit pv input is the only sure way i know of. Too high a voltage and when it connects likely to have issues containing too high a value on the boards, aside from frying internal relay contacts where used.

They will current limit, but could possibly be exposed to too much array wattage. Midnite suggests max 1.2 × max input wattage for long term reliability.

Now THAT'S USEFUL INFORMATION!
 
If there is no battery, there is no circuit.

There is no voltage in an open circuit (Voc). There is no circuit until you make the circuit with the volt-meter and measure it. As soon as you take the probe off, the PV isn't making anything.

So far, the only off-grid inverter I've been able to find that is specifically designed to work without a battery is the MPP Solar 5048MG. But the 5048MG doesn't just charge the batteries, it takes the PV - DC and transforms it to AC 230(or 240/50 or 60hz) 1P output also.
 
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If there is no battery, there is no circuit.

There is no voltage in an open circuit (Voc). There is no circuit until you make the circuit with the volt-meter and measure it. As soon as you take the probe off, the PV isn't making anything.

So far, the only off-grid inverter I've been able to find that is specifically designed to work without a battery is the MPP Solar 5048MG. But the 5048MG doesn't just charge the batteries, it takes the PV - DC and transforms it to AC 230(or 240/50 or 60hz) 1P output also.
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/33048623693.html?spm=2114.12057483.0.0.32753e7eKSCvYk
Is this similar?
 
So I took every EPEver/Victron/PWM/Renogy solar charge controller, and tried to fry it by connecting it only to solar panels, and not to a battery... guess which one survived?

EVERY SINGLE ONE! I couldn't destroy any of them, and I left them connected to a high voltage array (80 volts) for 4+ hours each.

I connected each one to a lifepo4 bank after the test, and they functioned perfectly. Tested output with a watt meter before and after as well, no change.

I read in the manuals that you must NEVER connect an SCC to an array without connecting it to a battery first, because the potential that it can fry. I know that having improper gauge wires on an SCC can cause overheating around the terminals (dedicated voltage sensing leads would probably fix this problem, but many SCC use the charging lines as voltage sensing, which makes it wise to over gauge them most times. The voltage drop of a long run of hot wire can be horrible). But to actually connect an array to an SCC, and not to a battery, in my experiments, no issue.

I am thinking that the feedback signal in the converter circuit needs a reference voltage at the output to work. Then it can track the power point between the panels resistance and internal resistance of the battery, then push current to the max. If you only have the input powered up but no current is flowing, what would it stress? The panel would be in an open circuit voltage, and possibly use some power to charge up caps on that side of the circuit, but thats about it. Should be fine to leave connected.

Am I wrong? I know some MPPT's circuit designs are pretty complex, but they are still a simple converter circuit with inductor and capacitor and basic logic system to modulate it. I know some current limited converters can handle amp sources at input/output, and others can't. bu

What do you guys think? How can I destroy one?
What do you guys think? How can I destroy one?

Well I finally found something I am better than Will at. I started a thread about letting the smoke out of my MPPT SCC from Bioenno. Basically I trusted some pre-made MC4 cables and hooked them up to the SCC without checking polarity with a meter. You guessed it, the polarity was reversed and the magic smoke came out rather quickly.

One more tuition payment to the school of hard knocks and I am in the market for a basic MPPT SCC for 48v LiFePO4.
 
Hold on now, we may have a winner...

(Also, I just created a circular reference so anyone following the link below might get caught in a time loop. You've been warned...)

 
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