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Ugh! Something maybe still wrong?

Spower

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Aug 21, 2020
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Problem child is back...
So now I am getting the amps I should be getting after putting the neg parallel cable on the B- side of the shunt.

Issue now is after victron goes through bulk, absorption modes then goes to float the amps never go down to 0, it sticks around at 2-4 amps. So to me it seems batteries are never "fully" charged?

V always drops to 13.2(something) v when it gets dark.

570w solar panels (parallel)
2 100ah BB lithium (parallel) (12v)
Victron smartsar 100/50 controller
Renogy battery monitor
Renogy 2000w inverter
 
Problem child is back...
So now I am getting the amps I should be getting after putting the neg parallel cable on the B- side of the shunt.

Issue now is after victron goes through bulk, absorption modes then goes to float the amps never go down to 0, it sticks around at 2-4 amps. So to me it seems batteries are never "fully" charged?

V always drops to 13.2(something) v when it gets dark.

570w solar panels (parallel)
2 100ah BB lithium (parallel) (12v)
Victron smartsar 100/50 controller
Renogy battery monitor
Renogy 2000w inverter

2A reported by the shunt or the MPPT?
 
Please remind us of your:

Absorption voltage
Absorption mode (fixed, etc.)
Absorption time
Float voltage
V = 14.6v
Mode = fixed
Time = 1hr
Float v = 13.6v

Charging amps during the day have been good...discharging amps at night seem really low....TV, inverter on, led lights on, it shows - 1.8 amps, how can that be?
 
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V = 14.6v
Mode = fixed
Time = 1hr
Float v = 13.6v

That's fine. While I know BB says 13.6, most float at 13.5V

Charging amps during the day have been good...discharging amps at night seem really low....TV, inverter on, led lights on, it shows - 1.8 amps, how can that be?

That seems really low.

Do you have a clamp DC ammeter to confirm current?

Does the Renogy shunt have a way to zero out the current or otherwise calibrate it?
 
That's fine. While I know BB says 13.6, most float at 13.5V



That seems really low.

Do you have a clamp DC ammeter to confirm current?

Does the Renogy shunt have a way to zero out the current or otherwise calibrate it?
I don't have a clamp meter. And don't think you can zero out current, I will check into that. Meanwhile I made a "drawing" of how my system is set up.....
12v system.jpg
 
Oh wow! Had no idea the inverter would make a difference!! I will switch that!
So that would solve the amps issue, what about the charging?

Once the inverter is connected through the shunt, both charge and discharge amps will be reflected in the shunt. That assumes that your inverter is an inverter/charger. Your diagram is incomplete. It needs to show the solar charge controller unless the inverter is also a solar charge controller.
 
Oh wow! Had no idea the inverter would make a difference!! I will switch that!
So that would solve the amps issue, what about the charging? would it solve this too?

Do you have a clamp DC ammeter to confirm current?
Does the Renogy shunt have a way to zero out the current or otherwise calibrate it?

I don't have a clamp meter. And don't think you can zero out current, I will check into that. Meanwhile I made a "drawing" of how my system is set up.....

Get one. Make sure it's DC current capable. Many cheap ones are AC only.
 
Once the inverter is connected through the shunt, both charge and discharge amps will be reflected in the shunt. That assumes that your inverter is an inverter/charger. Your diagram is incomplete. It needs to show the solar charge controller unless the inverter is also a solar charge controller.
The controller wires were factory installed, they go to the RV bus connections
 
Inverter wires switched, thanks for catching that....now to figure out if there is a charging issue?
 
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A picture of your system might help us understand what you're looking at.
There is a "picture" of my system above, I can't get an actual photo, it's not all in one place. The drawing is what I have except now the INV is wired correctly (it is wrong in the drawing)
 
No, that's a diagram. It left out the solar charge controller and the shunt. What you think you have (diagram) can be very different from what you actually have (picture).
 
No, that's a diagram. It left out the solar charge controller and the shunt. What you think you have (diagram) can be very different from what you actually have (picture).
The shunt is in there and the controller wires were installed in the factory and go to the the buss + and - on the rv
 
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