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UGLY but fully functional - RV Air conditioning

ghostwriter66

"Here - Hold my Beer"
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
1,868
Location
EE from LAX CA -work in SouthTX for giant evil Oil
So Will seems to be using the same AC that we use for the workers trailers that we support. Our Toshiba 6000 BTUs are all running off of solar and does a great job augmenting some of the older trialers A/Cs that just doens't do what they use to do ... I had one of the guys send some photo's which I will attach that shows how we do it ... Since these are NOT our trialers (they lease them) NOTHING can be CUT on the trailer .... so we figured this way out pretty quickly and it works well ...

In fan mode only - no compressor - it pulls about 60W ... in full on - compressor chugging - it pulls about 560 ... And i do have to admit that these little Toshibas that we get at Home Depot for 219 work great ..... He is using (4) 255W panels and 300aH LiFePO4 batteries .... I don't know his battery statuses throughout the day and night so can't guess at that ... I do know that he said that he normally does not run the AC at night because the desert gets cooler -- but at 0800 in the morning to about 2200hrs he has it set on full cold ...

He says that when it comes time to move the trailer he just pushes the AC onto the floor - puts the insulation on the bunk bed -- and closes the door ... We have ALLOT of these little Toshibas 6000 working and so far no issues ....

The insulation is just cut out to fit the door ...

While we were trying to figure out how to mount the thing in the door one of the guys just bought over a cinder block and a 1 x 6 and it fit perfectly to hold the A/C up

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There's a board on tnttt.com about building walls & furniture & entire trailers by covering the foam boards with canvas & gluing into place. Not trying to offend you, but you could find tips on making this way less ugly.
 
There's a board on tnttt.com about building walls & furniture & entire trailers by covering the foam boards with canvas & gluing into place. Not trying to offend you, but you could find tips on making this way less ugly.

From the time they unboxed the A/C, cut out the Insulation foam (with a grinder (WTH!!), dropped a second inverter on the batteries just for the A/C (another WTH??!!) then connected all that to the SCC and 1050 watts on the roof it took less than 30 minutes. The two ugly pieces of foam on the bottom is to hold the main piece solid - sort of as a brace -- but also doubling the R-factor ....
 
Yeah, but how the Hell do you get out of the trailer??? Hahaha

There's 2 doors ... LOL ... These are trailers the oil companies and vendors provide for their personnel and security guys and engineers so they can be on site and not have to drive 50 miles back into town taking 2 hours - just to rest ... There is a front door and rear door ... (which yes for a 335 sq foot trailer seems excessive) ...
 
1 Misc scrap piece of wood, 1 cinder block, foam board cut to fit (fit is optional). What....no duct tape? o_O
 
1 Misc scrap piece of wood, 1 cinder block, foam board cut to fit (fit is optional). What....no duct tape? o_O

I know your joking but they made sure that the foam fit well in order NOT to use tape since these trialers have to be moved often and any type of taping would require more taping ... of course VELCRO would be a solution ...
 
Yeah, but how the Hell do you get out of the trailer??? Hahaha

You just gotta suck it up and live out the rest of your days in that trailer in the oilfields of Texas
 
If those ac units were raised off of the floor and placed at the top of the door opening, Colin will be much better. I worked in the oilfield in west Texas in the early 80’s and do know how hot it can get there, but you haven’t lived until you’ve worked a 12 hour shift as a tower monkey, with the red mud rain coming down.
 
Mini split AC the way to go.

True in most cases, but not this one.

You're not getting a mini split installed and insulated in 30 minutes without cutting into the trailer in any way and then break it down and re-install when you have to move the trailer.
 
True in most cases, but not this one.

You're not getting a mini split installed and insulated in 30 minutes without cutting into the trailer in any way and then break it down and re-install when you have to move the trailer.
That Forest Air unit sounds good. That's a removal mini split. Just doesn't get high SEER rating. Just a bit above the noise window type AC.
 
So Will seems to be using the same AC that we use for the workers trailers that we support. Our Toshiba 6000 BTUs are all running off of solar and does a great job augmenting some of the older trialers A/Cs that just doens't do what they use to do ... I had one of the guys send some photo's which I will attach that shows how we do it ... Since these are NOT our trialers (they lease them) NOTHING can be CUT on the trailer .... so we figured this way out pretty quickly and it works well ...

In fan mode only - no compressor - it pulls about 60W ... in full on - compressor chugging - it pulls about 560 ... And i do have to admit that these little Toshibas that we get at Home Depot for 219 work great ..... He is using (4) 255W panels and 300aH LiFePO4 batteries .... I don't know his battery statuses throughout the day and night so can't guess at that ... I do know that he said that he normally does not run the AC at night because the desert gets cooler -- but at 0800 in the morning to about 2200hrs he has it set on full cold ...

He says that when it comes time to move the trailer he just pushes the AC onto the floor - puts the insulation on the bunk bed -- and closes the door ... We have ALLOT of these little Toshibas 6000 working and so far no issues ....

The insulation is just cut out to fit the door ...

While we were trying to figure out how to mount the thing in the door one of the guys just bought over a cinder block and a 1 x 6 and it fit perfectly to hold the A/C up

Great information for what I thinking of trying to do!
 
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Cold air falls....That AC would work much better if it was mounted on the top of the doorway.
No doubt, but then it would take a support structure more extensive than a concrete block and a two by twelve. It would also take more than ten minutes to install. The key functionality was when they move the trailer, which they do often, they just push tha AC inside, put the foam on a bunkbed and shut the door. ;)
 
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