I'm hoping this will help others who are contemplating using UniStrut for their panels.
Not saying this is the best way, it's just how I do it.
Mine is an off grid system, or will be when it's complete, and I'm fortunate to have a roof that faces due south and at almost the perfect summer/winter compromise angle, has no shading at all and as I live in SE New Mexico the panels receive about 6 - 8 hours of usable sun every day. So the photos will be showing my half complete system, but you should get the idea.
Measuring the width of the panels; I'm using used SanTan 250W, and allowing for 1/2" between them for the hold down bolts, I came to about 39' 7"; so four 10' long struts will be perfect for my 12 panel row, plus an extra one; the reason for the extra will become clear shortly.
I use the 1.5" struts. A touch expensive at about $30 each, but they give a good airflow gap under the panels.
Starting with the extra strut and a 10" metal cutoff blade in my well worn Craftsman chop saw, I use precision guesswork and cut between the holes of the strut to get, in my case, 60 pieces. For want of a better word I'm calling them clips.
After a touch of grinding and filing of all the potential bloodletting sharp edges and a squirt of an exterior spray paint, you have these:
There are many ways to find the rafters and I just tapped around until the sound changed. Lots of YouTube videos on locating the rafters so pick your own method.
Having found and marked the position of the rafters you now need to determine the distance from the top of the panel to the roof ridge.
Now decide on the location of the first and last clip for the row.
Drill the appropriate size hole for the 3/8" by 3 1/2" long lag bolts.
Now squeeze out a good amount of roofers mastic.
Clip with washer and lag bolt.
Screw it down to be left with this:
The nails are from when I replaced some shingles about 6 years ago
Now before we start with the cries of "Where's the flashing?", remember I'm in New Mexico and we are lucky to get 10" of rain for the year, and it's getting less. I used my method over 5 years ago and not a single drop of rain has made its way past my roof into the attic. I did use flashing beneath the shingles on two or three places where my drill missed the rafter, but if you are in a rainy area this may not work for you, this is a "How I do it", so may not work for your climate. Be inventive.
Install the last clip for the row and run a string between the 2 to keep all the other clips aligned.
Add all the other clips, in my case on alternate rafters.
Not saying this is the best way, it's just how I do it.
Mine is an off grid system, or will be when it's complete, and I'm fortunate to have a roof that faces due south and at almost the perfect summer/winter compromise angle, has no shading at all and as I live in SE New Mexico the panels receive about 6 - 8 hours of usable sun every day. So the photos will be showing my half complete system, but you should get the idea.
Measuring the width of the panels; I'm using used SanTan 250W, and allowing for 1/2" between them for the hold down bolts, I came to about 39' 7"; so four 10' long struts will be perfect for my 12 panel row, plus an extra one; the reason for the extra will become clear shortly.
I use the 1.5" struts. A touch expensive at about $30 each, but they give a good airflow gap under the panels.
Starting with the extra strut and a 10" metal cutoff blade in my well worn Craftsman chop saw, I use precision guesswork and cut between the holes of the strut to get, in my case, 60 pieces. For want of a better word I'm calling them clips.
After a touch of grinding and filing of all the potential bloodletting sharp edges and a squirt of an exterior spray paint, you have these:
There are many ways to find the rafters and I just tapped around until the sound changed. Lots of YouTube videos on locating the rafters so pick your own method.
Having found and marked the position of the rafters you now need to determine the distance from the top of the panel to the roof ridge.
Now decide on the location of the first and last clip for the row.
Drill the appropriate size hole for the 3/8" by 3 1/2" long lag bolts.
Now squeeze out a good amount of roofers mastic.
Clip with washer and lag bolt.
Screw it down to be left with this:
The nails are from when I replaced some shingles about 6 years ago
Now before we start with the cries of "Where's the flashing?", remember I'm in New Mexico and we are lucky to get 10" of rain for the year, and it's getting less. I used my method over 5 years ago and not a single drop of rain has made its way past my roof into the attic. I did use flashing beneath the shingles on two or three places where my drill missed the rafter, but if you are in a rainy area this may not work for you, this is a "How I do it", so may not work for your climate. Be inventive.
Install the last clip for the row and run a string between the 2 to keep all the other clips aligned.
Add all the other clips, in my case on alternate rafters.