Use solder paste on terminals-busbar to improve conductivity?

[Zil]

If it doesn't move, but should. Use WD-40. If it moves but should not. Use duck tape.

 

[Pierre]

If it doesn't move, but should. Use WD-40. If it moves but should not. Use duck tape.

As we used to say in the Navy : “ if it moves , salute it and if it does’nt , paint it “ .

 

[Haugen]

As we used to say in the Navy : “ if it moves , salute it and if it does’nt , paint it “ .

You must have been black shoe!
I was in the brown shoe Navy

 

[Pierre]

You must have been black shoe!
I was in the brown shoe Navy

Yea , black shoe.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Hedges. I am so respectful of your knowledge. But, what you picture is not what I addressed. You stated a "nut between the batter and bus bar". Never do that. If anyone wants to read more about stuff like washers on battery connections , with pictures, check here,; https://marinehowto.com/battery-melt-down-narrowly-averted/

Thanks for that link. I used a washer improperly and am now fixing it.
You may have saved me a nasty fire or worse.

 

[Hedges]

Thanks for that link. I used a washer improperly and am now fixing it.
You may have saved me a nasty fire or worse.

Be sure to use a torque wrench.
Terminals in a battery are held by the strength of the plastic, which isn't much compared to metal. Too much torque and you break the seal, which could result in leakage or battery degradation. Possibly a greater issue for your lithium than my lead-acid.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Be sure to use a torque wrench.
Terminals in a battery are held by the strength of the plastic, which isn't much compared to metal. Too much torque and you break the seal, which could result in leakage or battery degradation. Possibly a greater issue for your lithium than my lead-acid.

Everyone says that BUT.....
What poundage of torque?
And are ALL lifepo battery cell terminal the SAME torque?
That is why I go by feel.
Like the guy falling out of the building said. "So far so good.

 

[Hedges]

Everyone says that BUT.....
What poundage of torque?
And are ALL lifepo battery cell terminal the SAME torque?
That is why I go by feel.
Like the guy falling out of the building said. "So far so good.

Well if you had simply followed MY advice and used AGM, you could just RTFM!
(Oh, that had been for someone with a stationary application. Yours is mobile. Carry on ...)

http://sunxtender.com/pdfs/Sun_Xtender_Battery_Technical_Manual.pdf

"Terminal torque values: M6 use 35 in-lbs, M8 use 70 in-lbs"

I think that also was a sticker on my batteries.
For yours, have to look for documentation, specs from a bigger name brand, or troll through these threads, see if it has been answered.
Seems like there are such small thread sizes in these lithium battery terminals you're more likely to strip them out than rotate the terminal.
Some of the threads discuss using a stud not a screw, bottoming it by hand and backing out slightly, using thread-lock.
Don't want you to have to fix mangled threads either, which someone experienced with a short screw.

Read through this "thread", if you haven't already:

Avoiding Galvanic Corrosion

My guess is the bolt stretched the aluminum leaving the unstretched portion " out of phase" with the rest of the internal aluminum threads. I may never know if my studs get stretched because I locked them in with Loctite Red. I guess that is reason number 8 why I prefer SS studs inserted almost...

diysolarforum.com

 

[Deleted member 9967]

"Terminal torque values: M6 use 35 in-lbs, M8 use 70 in-lbs"

Well being an old woman I think I can manage 35 in-lbs. Oh wait, I was a power lifter for 30 years and lifted the back end of small cars for funsies. hmmm. LOL

I will read those articles. Thank for the links.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

http://sunxtender.com/pdfs/Sun_Xtender_Battery_Technical_Manual.pdf

Thank for the link but that is for lead acid batteries.
I might give it a perusal but I won't read all 43 pages.
Thanks just the same for the effort though.

 

[Hedges]

Well being an old woman I think I can manage 35 in-lbs. Oh wait, I was a power lifter for 30 years and lifted the back end of small cars for funsies. hmmm. LOL

I will read those articles. Thank for the links.

I have trouble with it because none of my torque wrenches go below 6 or 7 ft-lbs. Fortunately my batteries have 8mm bolts.
I have a similar problem above 75 ft-lbs because the Craftsman torque wrench my father gave me 40 years ago, which is still good, only goes that high. The other cheap ones I have kicking around that do go over 100 ft-lbs (for crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer) are quite inaccurate. We played tug-of-war between the good and the ugly to get a calibration factor before using the cheap one.

"Thank for the link but that is for lead acid batteries."

That was just for reference, that name brands provide necessary specs.
For your lithium cells, be sure to read the diysolarform thread I linked (going back to update my posting) because it describes stripping out terminals. One guy managed to run a stud to the bottom after the fact and made it work without thread repair.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

I have trouble with it because none of my torque wrenches go below 6 or 7 ft-lbs. Fortunately my batteries have 8mm bolts.
I have a similar problem above 75 ft-lbs because the Craftsman torque wrench my father gave me 40 years ago, which is still good, only goes that high. The other cheap ones I have kicking around that do go over 100 ft-lbs (for crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer) are quite inaccurate. We played tug-of-war between the good and the ugly to get a calibration factor before using the cheap one.

"Thank for the link but that is for lead acid batteries."

That was just for reference, that name brands provide necessary specs.
For your lithium cells, be sure to read the diysolarform thread I linked (going back to update my posting) because it describes stripping out terminals. One guy managed to run a stud to the bottom after the fact and made it work without thread repair.

The link was for galvanic problem, but I get the meaning.

 

[upnorthandpersonal]

In the manual for the 280Ah EVE cells, you can find:

"Remark: The pole is a double aluminum pole structure. The internal screw with size M6 is used in the poles. The anti-torsion of pole is 8Nm. The torsion should be less than 8Nm when used. The effective thread hole depth is 6mm."

EVE LF280 (3.2V 280Ah) Product Specification (Version E)-2019.7.5

Most recent Spec Sheet for the 280 LFP cells as provided directly by EVE March-14-2020.

diysolarforum.com

 

[Deleted member 9967]

I think we stole this guys thread.
Ahem, um er. No, don't use solder paste . ??

 

[ArthurEld]

I think we stole this guys thread.
Ahem, um er. No, don't use solder paste . ??

35 inch pounds would probably work but 8 nm = 70 inch pounds

 

[Pierre]

Here is that dreaded metric / imperial thing again. Metricate already ! ??

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Here is that dreaded metric / imperial thing again. Metricate already ! ??

No never..... LOL

 

[Frank in Thailand]

I think we stole this guys thread.
Ahem, um er. No, don't use solder paste . ??

That is OK.

Funny to see where the stories go..
From bacon to falling out of buildings

Washer between terminal and bus-bars/lugs for sure is not a good idea.

Nothing even isn't that bad..
Sealing with oxi-guard (or similar) will prevent oxidation but ain't good for contact, as it's non conductive.

I'll be using silver "paint", the stuff you use to repair PCB lines.
Like any other paint job, clean aluminium surface.
It will seal the aluminium from oxigen / oxidation / galvanic corrosion.
(No oxigen = no galvanic corrosion)

Some might disagree and for a spaceship it's not a good solution.
In my home I don't have huge pressure or temperature difference.
I've tested the paint on aluminium heatsink that gets hot (+60 c) and cool (+25 c) a few times a day.

After a few weeks I can't see any problems with the paint, still looks as new.
Even added some salt water after a few days to extra abuse.

If that is not giving problems, I'm sure it won't give that problems at my terminals.

Oxi-guard probably is easier, this is better conductive.
Both have the same effect on galvanic corrosion prevention.

My Bus-bars are electroplated with Tin.

Stainless steel headless bolts / studs and nuts + washers.

I'm not afraid that it will be a problem.

Just to be sure, and low cost, I'll add magnesium wire touching aluminium, bus-bar and rod.

As you can see on this picture, there is room for contact under the bus-bar after installation.


If there is galvanic corrosion problems, the magnesium will go first.

@BiduleOhm gave the tip to move the problem towards an area where it's more easy to control.

Next time I probably will use aluminium bus-bar and headless bolts for as long as I can to avoid the galvanic corrosion all together at the batteries.

This is as good as it gets

 

[Deleted member 9967]

That is OK.

Funny to see where the stories go..
From bacon to falling out of buildings

Washer between terminal and bus-bars/lugs for sure is not a good idea.

I'll be using silver "paint", the stuff you use to repair PCB lines.
Like any other paint job, clean aluminium surface.
It will seal the aluminium from oxigen / oxidation / galvanic corrosion.
(No oxigen = no galvanic corrosion)

I've tested the paint on aluminium heatsink that gets hot (+60 c) and cool (+25 c) a few times a day.

After a few weeks I can't see any problems with the paint, still looks as new.
Even added some salt water after a few days to extra abuse.

If that is not giving problems, I'm sure it won't give that problems at my terminals.

Oxi-guard probably is easier, this is better conductive.
Both have the same effect on galvanic corrosion prevention.

My Bus-bars are electroplated with Tin.

Stainless steel headless bolts / studs and nuts + washers.

Just to be sure, and low cost, I'll add magnesium wire touching aluminium, bus-bar and rod.

If there is galvanic corrosion problems, the magnesium will go first.

@BiduleOhm gave the tip to move the problem towards an area where it's more easy to control.

Next time I probably will use aluminium bus-bar and headless bolts for as long as I can to avoid the galvanic corrosion all together at the batteries.

This is as good as it gets

Couldn't use nothing as it was loose and sparking and melting the plastic. Um er, or so I heard. ?

Silver "paint" idea looks interesting.

I just don't want to ignore them for a year and then find out the gut are coming out is all.
If they are going to last 20 years with proper handling, then I would like them to last 20 years.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Zil]

All my dc electrical connections are checked at least one time a year. Tin solder doesn't have galvanic action on aluminum with aluminum protected with anti corrode or grease.