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Van Conversion DIY 560AH LIFEPO4 (EVE 280AH cells and Chargery BMS)

timmypt

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Sep 8, 2020
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I recently completed my 560AH 12V battery (2P4S) using 8x Eve 280AH cells (purchased through Alex at Basen) and 300A Chargery BMS8T and 300A DCC. You can see it installed in my electrical compartment of my 2020 Ford Transit van conversion. After top balancing to 3.64V, and then leaving sitting in parallel for 2 days all 8 cells measured 3.616 V.

Box is built out of 5/8" baltic birch plywood, 5x 3/8" thread rod (cut to same lengths and all tightened/compressed evenly), and ~3/8" plexiglass. I replaced the cell factory screws with studs, lockwashers, and nuts - and did not use loctite when installing.

Thanks to everyone who has posted ideas around this topic and answered questions in the past. I've calibrated the BMS and look forward to running more tests. Let me know if you have any questions or feedback.

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I've actually seen your van build on FB. Super nice! How do you plan to fasten the battery pack to the van?
 
I've actually seen your van build on FB. Super nice! How do you plan to fasten the battery pack to the van?
Thank you! I mounted the pack to the side wall and floor via pockethole screws on each end - they can faintly be seen in the wide angle photo. Was considering using some strapping around the front also but don't think it's necessary.
 
@Steve_S @Will Prowse You may have noticed in my photo that I installed the Chargery 300A common port DCC after the main battery positive. However as I'm skimming through the Chargery manual again I see that they recommend it be installed after the main battery negative, after the shunt... It makes more sense to me to install on the positive side... Any advice? I believe in your video Will, you had the relay on the positive side.Messages Image(3913127775).png
 
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That battery box is a work of art, I love it. How necessary do you think the rod going over the top of the cells was? I'm also curious how you worked out how to tighten the rods to the correct pressure.

I'm very near to building a similar system, I actually just posted about it yesterday. I was planning on getting a Overkill BMS for mine, what made you choose the Chargery?
 
You can safely install the DCC on the (+) Side BUT you will require the ISO Board to do so in between the DCC & BMS. The shunt of course must remain on the (-) Side.
 
That battery box is a work of art, I love it. How necessary do you think the rod going over the top of the cells was? I'm also curious how you worked out how to tighten the rods to the correct pressure.

I'm very near to building a similar system, I actually just posted about it yesterday. I was planning on getting a Overkill BMS for mine, what made you choose the Chargery?
Thank you! I haven't seen any other boxes that have the top rod specifically, but I wanted some extra peace of mind that there is compression and security keeping them held in up top. I couldn't figure out a scientific way to easily/consistently measure the amount of pressure, so I went until there was very little side/side play in the rod itself (i.e. if I tried to wiggle a rod side/side from the middle), then counted the number of threads showing after the nut (even on both ends) and replicated it through all 5 rods for even pressure.

I wanted a single BMS that could handle 300A and has low temperature disconnect. I considered going 2 separate 4S batteries, each with their own BMS, in parallel, with something like the Overkill BMS but so far am happy with the Chargery.
 
You can safely install the DCC on the (+) Side BUT you will require the ISO Board to do so in between the DCC & BMS. The shunt of course must remain on the (-) Side.
Perfect, thank you for the quickly. Your post help me clarify in the manual also. Thankfully I had already also installed the ISO board between DCC and BMS so we're all set. Thanks again
 
What are the overall dimensions of your beautiful battery box? It looks like it *might fit* under the stairs in my motor home

Don
 
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