Van electrical drawing for review.

WNCGUY

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
70
Please take a look at my latest 12v system drawing to assure proper wire sizing, correct type fuses and their amp rating along with anything else you see that may not be acceptable. I have also included my energy audit summary for review.

Not in the drawing but I would like to add a Victron IP22 30a battery charger that I would like to add but wasn't sure how or the best way to do it. Can it simple be permanently attached to the battery posts or at the open fuse location in the Victron Lynx Distributor and plugged into shore power as wanted to charge batteries and use as shore power?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Van Elect Drawing.png

System size calculations
Full Load W-hrs.1222.5W-Hrs.
Full Load Watts1140Watts
AC Watts1050Watts
AC Surge wattage0Watts
AC Watt-Hrs612.5W-Hrs.
DC Watts90Watts
DC Watt-Hrs610W-Hrs.
Inverter Sizing
Inverter efficiency85.00%%
Min continuous Inverter sizeWatts
Min Surge Inverter size (Input Watts)1235Watts
Battery Sizing
Daily Storage Requirement1331W-Hrs/Day
Max discharge from full CHARGE85.0%%
# days of storage capacity1.5Days
System Voltage12.0Volts
min Battery capacity W-Hrs2348.1W-Hrs.
min Battery capacity A-Hrs195.7Amp Hours
Max continuous current to DC Loads7.5
Max continuous DC current to Inverter0.0
Max continuous current from bat.7.5Amps
Max Continuous discharge rate0.04C
Solar Aray Sizing
# sunny days to recharge while under loadDays
Required Total daily Solar output (Sunny)W-Hrs.
Insolation # (Equivelent hours of full sun)0.0Hours
Min Solar Cell WattageWatts
Max Charge Current#VALUE!Amps
Max Charge rateC
 

Rocketman

Solar Addict
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Sep 27, 2020
Messages
760
Yes attach the IP22 battery charger to the open slot on the distributor.

I think all the other stuff looks good…

On the distributor- to get the led’s working
1-add a 5v supply into the distributor or
2. There is a shunt from Victron (but it’s expensive and probably not necessary
3. Use a Power-In and add fuses.

For both #1 &#3 there are You-Tube video showing how.

Good Luck
 

Bud Martin

Photon Sorcerer
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
3,451
If the battery monitor has a power wire for it to run, you should put a small inline fuse incase the monitor circuit shorts out and burn up the small power wire.
 

WNCGUY

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
70
Yes attach the IP22 battery charger to the open slot on the distributor.

I think all the other stuff looks good…

On the distributor- to get the led’s working
1-add a 5v supply into the distributor or
2. There is a shunt from Victron (but it’s expensive and probably not necessary
3. Use a Power-In and add fuses.

For both #1 &#3 there are You-Tube video showing how.

Good Luck
By attaching the battery charger to the open fuse slot in the Victron distributor is there anything I need to do when I want to connect shore power or just plug in 120v AC and all is a go? Is there any affect on other components I need to worry about?

I actually have option #3, Victron Power In and will be adding the hardware to accept the fuses.
 

WNCGUY

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
70
If the battery monitor has a power wire for it to run, you should put a small inline fuse incase the monitor circuit shorts out and burn up the small power wire.
I bought the AiLi shunt, the budget option that Will recommends. it didn't come with a power wire/fuse and the included instructions don't mention wire or fuse sizing.
 

WNCGUY

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
70
I need the expertise of additional members, please review and give me your comments, Is the drawing good to go as is? Are there changes I need to make? Your suggestions and approvals give me the confidence to buy the needed parts and get this project completed.

In addition to adding a shore power battery charger, not on drawing, I also have seen posts about a pre-charge resister for the inverter, is this a good option for my system, how would I install it and what parts are needed?

Thanks in advance!
 

Rocketman

Solar Addict
Joined
Sep 27, 2020
Messages
760
A couple of other items…

Yes by keeping the IP22 charger attached to the last posts - when you need a charge - just plug it in. Having it wired in makes zero mistakes later getting positive and negative crossed. Have the charger itself - easily detached - so you can help someone else with a spare battery charger if it’s ever needed.

Do you batteries have low temp protection? (Hope so). You could cause problems if… you decide to stay at a motel (cause you want a warm shower), it is cold - below freezing when you start driving in the morning (your batteries are cold soaked). Then you start the van and start driving- the dc-dc charger starts charging when the batteries are too cold - bad news!

You want the batteries to have automatic protection.

Also, I would wire the allow to charge loop on the Dc-dc charger to a switch at the dash - so you can stop the charge if you decide to.

Also, do you think you will add a solar panel?
If so look at the combination of the Victron Smartshunt (or BMV712) plus the smart solar controller. You can add a temp sensor and together they will stop charging below ___ degrees. I find the combination of those two items to be great!

Pre-charge resister- when you connect the inverter to the batteries the inverter will draw a momentary large amount- a spark.

There are many ways to overcome it. In my system I purchased a Pre-Charge from Rec-Bms,but that would not work well in your system. For you- get a power resister on a wire, attach it around the 200a power disconnect somehow manually for a few seconds. That will allow a little power in - then turn the power disconnect on( and remove the power resister) You may also, (you need to check this) plug in the battery charger- it will add the needed power to prevent the spark.

The issue of not having a pre charge is when you turn on the power disconnect the spark happens inside it at the contacts. Someday, enough sparks will happen that the contacts no longer make good contact.

I think you plan looks good - the hard part is doing a good wiring job - label everything and keep it neat.

Good luck!
 

WNCGUY

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
70
A couple of other items…

Yes by keeping the IP22 charger attached to the last posts - when you need a charge - just plug it in. Having it wired in makes zero mistakes later getting positive and negative crossed. Have the charger itself - easily detached - so you can help someone else with a spare battery charger if it’s ever needed.
I will attach to the last posts and put an Anderson or other type connector? Leaving the option to attach alligator leads to charge vehicle batteries if needed. In the future I may find the need to add solar and would then use this 4th fuse location for the solar.
Do you batteries have low temp protection? (Hope so). You could cause problems if… you decide to stay at a motel (cause you want a warm shower), it is cold - below freezing when you start driving in the morning (your batteries are cold soaked). Then you start the van and start driving- the dc-dc charger starts charging when the batteries are too cold - bad news.
SOK batteries have low temp charge protection.
You want the batteries to have automatic protection.

Also, I would wire the allow to charge loop on the Dc-dc charger to a switch at the dash - so you can stop the charge if you decide to.
My van starting battery is at the passenger rear side. I was thinking of simply adding a quick disconnect plug to the positive to the DC-DC- charger positive cable going to the power distribution box. I am still working on the details but the electrical system, bed, flooring and cabinets will be easily removal, more than likely converted a couple of times a year.
Also, do you think you will add a solar panel?
If so look at the combination of the Victron Smartshunt (or BMV712) plus the smart solar controller. You can add a temp sensor and together they will stop charging below ___ degrees. I find the combination of those two items to be great!
I am hoping charging the batteries while driving will be sufficient. I want to keep me roof space available for a cargo carrier as I think I will find inside storage to be at a premium. I did look into a 100a solar panel but it seems that with only one panel there is little benefit.
Pre-charge resister- when you connect the inverter to the batteries the inverter will draw a momentary large amount- a spark.

There are many ways to overcome it. In my system I purchased a Pre-Charge from Rec-Bms,but that would not work well in your system. For you- get a power resister on a wire, attach it around the 200a power disconnect somehow manually for a few seconds. That will allow a little power in - then turn the power disconnect on( and remove the power resister) You may also, (you need to check this) plug in the battery charger- it will add the needed power to prevent the spark.

The issue of not having a pre charge is when you turn on the power disconnect the spark happens inside it at the contacts. Someday, enough sparks will happen that the contacts no longer make good contact.
I got excited and bought one of these based on one of Will's videos. I would prefer this was permanently installed and just push a button to pre-charge, I think I seen something like this someplace on the forum.

s-l1600.jpg
I think you plan looks good - the hard part is doing a good wiring job - label everything and keep it neat.

Good luck!

Thanks again for your help!
 
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