Very new to solar but started purchasing items, not sure of the final specs of the whole system.

[kromc5]

I misunderstood. My leak was between that and the fitting which I attached. Was your leak between it and the tank?

My leak was a the back of the brass fitting, sadly the leak did not start till it was warming which was so frustrating. I know if I want to correct I need to drain the tank and redo the fitting but I though let me see what Rheem would comeback with. I barely moved the brass fitting little by little hoping it would stop but took how far I had to rotate to stop the leak.

 

[kromc5]

Nice, I take it you went with nickel or silver plating, and had them cut to length? I went with the copper unplated, and didn't have anything cut.
FYI, I have the same area rug.

They had a nice sale so I jumped on the price as I thought with 4p16s why not go overboard a little on the connections and the longer back run with 3 inch. I'm using the dewalt carbide blade on my miter there were not many that I could find that were rated for the rpm, freud makes one as well and cuts very easily.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Precision-Trim-12-in-96-Tooth-Segmented-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade/3316664

 

[Ampster]

I know if I want to correct I need to drain the tank and redo the fitting but I though let me see what Rheem would comeback with.

Your black mark is still vertical so I am not sure what the issue is except the fitting may not be tight enough. That happened to me on one I installed for my sister several years ago. I did one in my own home a few months ago and put plenty of tape and pipe dope on the fitting and nipple and never had a problem.

 

[kromc5]

Your black mark is still vertical so I am not sure what the issue is except the fitting may not be tight enough. That happened to me on one I installed for my sister several years ago. I did one in my own home a few months ago and put plenty of tape and pipe dope on the fitting and nipple and never had a problem.

I will have to show you the manual so you understand the issue. You should also see the black line across the brass fitting but its rotated way over due to faulty installation from the factory. I can take a picture of the other fittings that were pre-installed with the black lines matching. The manual was very specific when attaching lines not to over tighten the moving the black lines. Meanting the black line on the sliver pipe also went across the brass fitting. The brass fitting was factory installed, tighten and not supposed to leak.

 

[Just John]

Few picks of it up and running and the delta between the readout and meter:

I think a couple of pictures will illustrate what I was trying to explain when I said use the front terminals on that 40 amp supply to set the voltage.




It's hard to see, so let me explain. The meter on the right is plugged directly into the two front jacks, and with no cell attached I set the voltage to 3.6 volts (or as close as it would let me). Now the pictures show with a cell attached and charging, when I first started the cell charging, I adjusted current to prevent it going over 40 amps. The meter on the left is attached directly to the battery terminals, and thus is reading the cell voltage. The closer the cell voltage gets to the set voltage (3.6 volts) the less current is flowing (that's normal, current is directly related to the voltage difference between the cell voltage on the left and the charging set voltage on the right). This is the safest method of charging a single cell, although a bit slower (takes about 8 hours instead of 7 for a 280AH cell). It is NOT the only method or approach. But as I pointed out, when charging a single cell, it takes about 9 minutes to go from 3.4 volts to 3.65 volts at 40 amps. Certainly for a large bank in parallel, that time will increase by the number of cells in parallel. It is entirely safe to charge a single cell or a large group of parallel cells using this method, you would have to ignore it for a day or two to substantially over charge either a cell or a large group in parallel (which is a big concern for me, I should have ordered a couple of spare cells). I then top each cell up individually to 3.65 on my Riden, usually about an amp hour or less (from 3.6 to 3.65).

Certainly if you watch things closely, you can crank up the set voltage to get 40 amps out of the charger as long as you want. But once it hits 3.4 volts, you really need to pay close attention to the cell voltage and not let it rise above 3.65. It is certainly not a bad approach to take for a large group of cells in parallel and will save time. For a single cell, you could even set a timer to remind you in 6 hours (assuming fully discharged 280AH cell) and then turn down the voltage. Not trying to criticize, just trying to let people without any experience know the safest way to charge without over charging.

 

[Just John]

They had a nice sale so I jumped on the price as I thought with 4p16s why not go overboard a little on the connections and the longer back run with 3 inch. I'm using the dewalt carbide blade on my miter there were not many that I could find that were rated for the rpm, freud makes one as well and cuts very easily.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Precision-Trim-12-in-96-Tooth-Segmented-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade/3316664

Thanks, I was wondering about the best way to cut busbar stock, you've done the research for me it would seem!
I have a friend that is a machinist (works for Boeing making custom parts for the Apache in his garage). I was going to ask him, but haven't yet since I haven't decided on a method for assembling a pack. I was thinking a plywood box lined with some heavy duty foam, and then using steel straps.

 

[kromc5]

I think a couple of pictures will illustrate what I was trying to explain when I said use the front terminals on that 40 amp supply to set the voltage.


It's hard to see, so let me explain. The meter on the right is plugged directly into the two front jacks, and with no cell attached I set the voltage to 3.6 volts (or as close as it would let me). Now the pictures show with a cell attached and charging, when I first started the cell charging, I adjusted current to prevent it going over 40 amps. The meter on the left is attached directly to the battery terminals, and thus is reading the cell voltage. The closer the cell voltage gets to the set voltage (3.6 volts) the less current is flowing (that's normal, current is directly related to the voltage difference between the cell voltage on the left and the charging set voltage on the right). This is the safest method of charging a single cell, although a bit slower (takes about 8 hours instead of 7 for a 280AH cell). It is NOT the only method or approach. But as I pointed out, when charging a single cell, it takes about 9 minutes to go from 3.4 volts to 3.65 volts at 40 amps. Certainly for a large bank in parallel, that time will increase by the number of cells in parallel. It is entirely safe to charge a single cell or a large group of parallel cells using this method, you would have to ignore it for a day or two to substantially over charge either a cell or a large group in parallel (which is a big concern for me, I should have ordered a couple of spare cells). I then top each cell up individually to 3.65 on my Riden, usually about an amp hour or less (from 3.6 to 3.65).

Certainly if you watch things closely, you can crank up the set voltage to get 40 amps out of the charger as long as you want. But once it hits 3.4 volts, you really need to pay close attention to the cell voltage and not let it rise above 3.65. It is certainly not a bad approach to take for a large group of cells in parallel and will save time. For a single cell, you could even set a timer to remind you in 6 hours (assuming fully discharged 280AH cell) and then turn down the voltage. Not trying to criticize, just trying to let people without any experience know the safest way to charge without over charging.

Thank you for the pictures and information, when I checked the front voltage vs the back it was anywhere from 1.0/1.4v difference, meaning if I see 3.63 on the front the back will show 3.53 on the back. I forgot to add a zero in my previous post, to keep the voltage stable I would turn the it up till I it stopped then back it down by .05. At the very near end of the charge I sat with the bank and adjusted it up slowly by .01. Is your chargers output the same in the front and back when measured?

 

[Just John]

Thank you for the pictures and information, when I checked the front voltage vs the back it was anywhere from 1.0/1.4v difference, meaning if I see 3.63 on the front the back will show 3.53 on the back. I forgot to add a zero in my previous post, to keep the voltage stable I would turn the it up till I it stopped then back it down by .05. At the very near end of the charge I sat with the bank and adjusted it up slowly by .01. Is your chargers output the same in the front and back when measured?

If I were to disconnect the cell, the voltages would be identical. The front jacks and the rear jacks are both connected (soldered) to the internal power supply. The only difference is the front jacks have about 3 inches of light gauge wire connecting them, and the rear have about 10 to 12 inches of heavier gauge wire (looks like 10 gauge which is perfectly adequate for 40 amps). So the front jacks (assuming no load drawn from them, only from the rear) are very close to what your power supply is set to output. The powersupply looks like an adequate design, certainly nothing is running hot, solder joints all look better than I expected, and it is a good value for the money and this purpose.

If I am charging a cell or a battery, no, the front and back voltage do not match, and that is totally expected, and not an indication of any problem. The back voltage should come within a few millivolts of the cell voltage assuming adequately sized wires.

 

[kromc5]

If I were to disconnect the cell, the voltages would be identical. The front jacks and the rear jacks are both connected (soldered) to the internal power supply. The only difference is the front jacks have about 3 inches of light gauge wire connecting them, and the rear have about 10 to 12 inches of heavier gauge wire (looks like 10 gauge which is perfectly adequate for 40 amps). So the front jacks (assuming no load drawn from them, only from the rear) are very close to what your power supply is set to output. The powersupply looks like an adequate design, certainly nothing is running hot, solder joints all look better than I expected, and it is a good value for the money and this purpose.

If I am charging a cell or a battery, no, the front and back voltage do not match, and that is totally expected, and not an indication of any problem. The back voltage should come within a few millivolts of the cell voltage assuming adequately sized wires.

I have not tested with it disconnected, I think your method would be great for one or a couple batteries. I just would worry about the voltage jumping on the larger bank. The voltage is very stable they way I'm doing it now and I can let it run overnight and throughout the day. I go and check everything hourly the output and the batteries. I do move the battery cables around based the batteries voltages and it helps them even up between the two banks. When at the very end of the first 64 the voltages on the batteries and the output were even.

 

[kromc5]

Slow and steady I separate the banks at 3.640 and finish them separately. I watched them very closely and these batteries do expand some more than than others.


For anyone curious I wanted to see how Rheems tech support was since I have not had product from them. I emailed them pictures of the brass fitting installed by them and tested but still no response at this time. I suspect I was unlucky as cannot fathom how many they have pre-intalled on these hot water heaters.

 

[kromc5]

Slowly but surely, just don't call me Shirley the second bank has completed except for two, just need to order spares. Monitoring batteries is a lot of work if it was not for the drastic savings pre-made would be a real time saver.

 

[Ampster]

For anyone curious I wanted to see how Rheems tech support was since I have not had product from them. I emailed them pictures of the brass fitting installed by them and tested but still no response at this time. I suspect I was unlucky as cannot fathom how many they have pre-intalled on these hot water heaters.

My Ruud which I installed two months ago and the two Rheems that I installed three years ago just had the 3/4 " male threaded nipples coming out of the tank with no fittings. None of the pictures I have seen had fittings or elbows. Is it possible that those fittings were installed after the tank left the factory and that is why you have not heard?

 

[kromc5]

My Ruud which I installed two months ago and the two Rheems that I installed three years ago just had the 3/4 " male threaded nipples coming out of the tank with no fittings. None of the pictures I have seen had fittings or elbows. Is it possible that those fittings were installed after the tank left the factory and that is why you have not heard?

Rheem covers the two pre-installed fittings in great detail in the installation manual.

 

[kromc5]

Panels and second inverter arrived today, the panels are identical specs to the prior ones but slightly different look.
With this order it gives me 50 500w panels and two 12kw inverters. Charing the batteries during the month of January increased my
avg energy usage to almost 700kwh more for the month.

 

[kromc5]

Slowly progressing, 2nd inverter mounted, added extra studs and used two 3/4 plywood boards for the backing. Drilled one screw slightly off and will not slide into the slot making it ever so slightly tilled . AB breaker is mounted and working on wiring up the 3rd combiner, and drilling and mounting the 4 blue sea powerbars. I kept the combiner boxes away from the house just incase there could be a breaker fire, found a company with 3 inch conduit was able to bridge the 7ft distance from the top of the array pole and came out decent. Wires are just a little to big for the inverter and charge controller but fit with some slight adjustment.

 

[kromc5]

Started working on mounting the panels they are the same specs as the previous but with one slight difference the connectors located in the middle.

 

[kromc5]

I was missing some set screws and contacted Iron Ridge directly as it was not the fault of Solaris. They were very helpful and stated they would send tracking shortly.

 

[kromc5]

Nothing but rain and high winds, nice weather today finally and started putting up the last of the panels.
Picture of the 5 panel 17 foot rails.

The reasoning for the second inverter was I had not thought about the garage I have been slowly working on.
It will not pull to much but I did not want to worry constantly about load.

Generators are up and running and did not realize how cheap they were, I certainly could have saved a little on the solar side.

 

[kromc5]

The grass is growing quickly under the panels, due to them being bifacial I was contemplating about installing white landscape fabric.

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I was unsure if I would install under all the way or was thinking of a foot in front to a couple feet behind on the low side of the array?
I would like to mitigate mowing, weed trimming around the panels.

At the very back could even do raised beds for vegetables but unsure of this at the moment.

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[Hedges]

The grass is growing quickly under the panels, due to them being bifacial I was contemplating about installing white landscape fabric.

Is the fabric UV resistant?

I previously used grey non-woven under bark. On a slope, wind and what not moves the bark and exposed fabric shreds after sun exposure.

I recently bought black woven "20 year sunlight resistant", the stuff you see as construction fences and the like.
It it weakening and shredding in a couple years. I think it is 20 year if covered and somewhat sunlight resistant.
I was suspicious about polypropylene, UV coated. Polypropylene is the stuff of blue tarps, and not sunlight resistant.

There are plastics which will last a couple decades in the sun. But I haven't found landscape fabric that will.

Get goats?

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