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diy solar

Victron 6kw / 20kw battery setup - Looking for advice

jeremyee

New Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2021
Messages
106
I am building a off Grid solar system and wanted to get some feedback on my build since it's still in progress.

Parts
1x Cerbro GX
2x Victron 48V 3k Quattro
1x Victron 150/70 Solar Charger
2x Victron 450/100 Tr MPPT R/S
1x LYNX Distributor
1x LYNX Power In
1x LYNX 1000 Shunt
4x LifePower4 48V
10x 200 Watt Rich Solar Panels
1x PV / DC breaker box
1x Breaker Box
1x Manual Transfer Switch


solar_1_03132022.jpg
 
Watch Will's new video on the Victron system ,I think it will help you with your Victron equipment. The Lynx 1000 shunt is the first item from the batteries, then the Lynx Distributor and the Lynx Power in. You may want the switch between the batteries and the Shunt on the positive side. How are you getting the cables from the Victron Power In, into the wire trough or raceway?
 
Watch Will's new video on the Victron system ,I think it will help you with your Victron equipment. The Lynx 1000 shunt is the first item from the batteries, then the Lynx Distributor and the Lynx Power in. You may want the switch between the batteries and the Shunt on the positive side. How are you getting the cables from the Victron Power In, into the wire trough or raceway?
The D/C goes from Right (Battery Input) to Left being the Inverters / Solar Chargers with the shunt in the middle. I am using the power in for connecting each Rack (1 to start) of EG batteries. Then the shunt to measure the power coming out of the battery's and going into the battery's from the solar charger & inverter / charger. The Distributor then feeds a fused cable to the physical inverters and chargers.

for the D/C cable i am thinking about using a plastic trough 3"x2" to go from the inverters to the Distributor. The Solar charger D/C wire comes out of the plastic PV/Charger breaker box to the Distrubtor and I think I am going to use the same plastic trough for that.
 
OK that makes more since to me now. So you are using the Power In unit to parallel the batteries, starting with one but then you can add more batteries in the futures. I like it. You have a big project on your hands but you seem to be going in the right direction.
 
Why 2 Victron 450/100 Tr MPPT R/S instead of 1x Victron 450/200 Tr MPPT R/S?
 
Why 2 Victron 450/100 Tr MPPT R/S instead of 1x Victron 450/200 Tr MPPT R/S?
Looking for physical product redundancy. That way if and inverter, charger, battery or power source fails I will still have power. The second power source is a 10kw generator.
 
OK that makes more since to me now. So you are using the Power In unit to parallel the batteries, starting with one but then you can add more batteries in the futures. I like it. You have a big project on your hands but you seem to be going in the right direction.
Correct. Trying to do the best I can to plan for the upgrades to save money in the long run. got to figure something out with the plywood as it looks like crap. Maybe I will paint and frame the border. I did leave the top section for using concrete backer board but I just haven't seen a use case that would show that as a benefit for preventing fires. I am going to install an automated fire extinguisher just in case it does catch on fire. haven fire safety. Still need to do more research to see what the best way to slow down a fire with a lithium battery. I did hear some rumors that the Fire Dept's are just letting building burn with lithium battery's. NOt sure if this is all FD's or it was just a Fire Inspecter who felt this way.

batt.jpg
 
Configured for split-phase? Looks like it is. Note that you'll be limited to 2400 watts sustained per leg (or less, depending on ambient temperature of the inverters).

Any reason to use the 450-volt MPPTs? What's your panel configuration look like?

How are you fusing/protecting the DC wires coming out of the EG4 cabinet?

Are you going for inspection/code? I don't know much in this area - just make sure you have appropriate shut-offs for DC and Panels in the appropriate locations (possibly outside), properly labeled.
 
Configured for split-phase? Looks like it is. Note that you'll be limited to 2400 watts sustained per leg (or less, depending on ambient temperature of the inverters).

Any reason to use the 450-volt MPPTs? What's your panel configuration look like?

How are you fusing/protecting the DC wires coming out of the EG4 cabinet?

Are you going for inspection/code? I don't know much in this area - just make sure you have appropriate shut-offs for DC and Panels in the appropriate locations (possibly outside), properly labeled.
Yeah, it will be split phase. To be honest I don't have any 220 that I will be running as the HVAC will stay on the grid for a few years. Doing the math I think i needed dual 5K to run the entire house for HVAC and all outlets except for the Dryer. The water heater is NG.

The panels setup for now is 10x 200 watt Rich with 2S,2P. The voltage is 121 volts OCV @ 2000 watts. I am building on to the back of the house with some sort of porch / pergola and will be 20x panes @ 440 watts each with 50 volts OCV.

For the Battery rack there is a fuse on the battery but none from the buss bar to the main fuse (200 amp) in the Shunt just after all the input buss bar. I was thinking about putting a Fuse just below the Lynx Buss bar and then 300 amp switch between the fuse an Battery rack buss bar. The switch would a safe way of disconnecting the power cables from the lynx input to the battery rack buss bar.

Not pulling a permit since it's off-grid but I am trying to make it up to code if I every need to have it inspected. Yeah all these labels get pricey having to list details on the PV combiner and all the disconnects for the A/C and D/C.


String Details
Array Totals
Panels per String
String Volts
String Watts
String Amp
Array Volts
Array Watts
Array Amps
5
120
1000
8.33
120
2000.00
16.67
5
249.5
2200
8.82
249.5
2200.00
8.82
5
249.5
2200
8.82
249.5
2200.00
8.82
 
Ah, the second and third strings indeed need that 450 MPPT. The first only needs a 150 (assuming your temps don't get cold enough for the Voc to reach 150)

I'm assuming you're already invested in the 3k's since I see one on the wall but you can do a single 5k (the 230/50 euro version, configured for 240/60) with an autotransformer ... to get 4000 watts without worry about load-balancing each leg and/or maxing out a leg at 2400 watts.

Alternatively, if you're properly wired (e.g. no multi-wire branch circuits in your panel which share a neutral), you could run just 120v and parallel the 3k's and not worry about balancing the legs or overloading a single leg with 2400 watts. Gives you more equipment redundancy, too.

I assume the wire between the rack and the Lynx is more than 7 inches (the ABYC max), so you may want to consider a fuse inside the rack at the bus bar to protect the wire between the rack the the Lynx. Otherwise that wire is technically unprotected (even by the breakers of the EG4's) because of the parallel batteries.
 
Ah, the second and third strings indeed need that 450 MPPT. The first only needs a 150 (assuming your temps don't get cold enough for the Voc to reach 150)

I'm assuming you're already invested in the 3k's since I see one on the wall but you can do a single 5k (the 230/50 euro version, configured for 240/60) with an autotransformer ... to get 4000 watts without worry about load-balancing each leg and/or maxing out a leg at 2400 watts.

Alternatively, if you're properly wired (e.g. no multi-wire branch circuits in your panel which share a neutral), you could run just 120v and parallel the 3k's and not worry about balancing the legs or overloading a single leg with 2400 watts. Gives you more equipment redundancy, too.

I assume the wire between the rack and the Lynx is more than 7 inches (the ABYC max), so you may want to consider a fuse inside the rack at the bus bar to protect the wire between the rack the the Lynx. Otherwise that wire is technically unprotected (even by the breakers of the EG4's) because of the parallel batteries.
Good point on the autotransformer. I may upgrade to dual 5K inverters and then add the autotransformer to feed the entire house year down the road.

I like the idea of just putting both inverters in parallel so I don't have to worry about load balancing and I get the redundancy.

Good point on the fuse at the battery rack. Which would be better a fuse or breaker for the battery rack?
 
Check on the voltage of those red battery isolators, usually their 48VDC rating is an absolute maximum & not rated for approx. 56vdc operating voltage.
Regards - Leigh
Good catch. I do see it's max voltage is 48. I wonder what would make this switch not work due to the 56 vs 48 volts. It's rated 300 amp's at 48 volts. I would think it's the amps that makes a difference and not the volts but I need to do more research on that.
 
Good catch. I do see it's max voltage is 48. I wonder what would make this switch not work due to the 56 vs 48 volts. It's rated 300 amp's at 48 volts. I would think it's the amps that makes a difference and not the volts but I need to do more research on that.

*shrug* I use it on my system. Depends on whether you're comfortable going slightly over the max voltage or not.
 
Good point on the autotransformer. I may upgrade to dual 5K inverters and then add the autotransformer to feed the entire house year down the road.

I like the idea of just putting both inverters in parallel so I don't have to worry about load balancing and I get the redundancy.

Good point on the fuse at the battery rack. Which would be better a fuse or breaker for the battery rack?

Either fuse or a breaker is fine. I use a breaker. Just make sure the AIC (arc interrupt rating) is sufficiently high ... probably 20,000+ amps in your case (Class T fuse, for example).
 
*shrug* I use it on my system. Depends on whether you're comfortable going slightly over the max voltage or not.
So far All I can find is the voltage rating has to do with the possibility of arching across the contact points and the amp ratting has to do with melting the contact points. I was hoping it was just a terminology thing like 110 VAC vs 120VAC rating as they are the same.
 
So far All I can find is the voltage rating has to do with the possibility of arching across the contact points and the amp ratting has to do with melting the contact points. I was hoping it was just a terminology thing like 110 VAC vs 120VAC rating as they are the same.

Bluesea's official standpoint is 48vdc actual max. But I'm comfortable running it at 56v or less. Especially since it's always on and also especially since I don't switch it under load.
 
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