Victron is Over-priced Eurotrash. Why would anybody buy Victron over an AiO?

[ricardocello]

The main panel the AT goes to is off so no load yet. I flip on the AT (which worked fine with 1x Quattro for multiple days)...lots of noise (hum), clear sparks inside the case, I flipped it off (it did not flip off itself). Bad smell, but no apparent board damage after opening it up but I'm going to assume by the smell that it's toast.

Note to others: These are 230V European Quattro 15ks in parallel to an autotransformer.

Bad smell from the AT? The AT is toast?

VRM shows a 700w spike in draw for that second.

I confirmed with Quattros on, at the input of the AT there's 240v between Line and Neutral.

Autotransformer: You should have 240V between L1 and L2. You should have 120V between L1 and N, and L2 and N.

The "Neutrals" from the 15k Quattros should be treated as L2.

 

[740GLE]

So is the AT being used to convert a euro 230v unit to split phase?

 

[CVCPJared]

Note to others: These are 230V European Quattro 15ks in parallel to an autotransformer.

Bad smell from the AT? The AT is toast?


Autotransformer: You should have 240V between L1 and L2. You should have 120V between L1 and N, and L2 and N.

The "Neutrals" from the 15k Quattros should be treated as L2.

Yes, 240v from Line to Neutral on the input side. When i only had 1 Quattro, AT Ouput had 120v from L1 to neutral, 120v from L2 to neutral, and 240v from L1 to L2. I can't test the output at the moment though of course

I cant confirm the AT is toast, but bad smell, sparks, no smoke, no visible PCB damage or burn marks inside the case. Ill assume the worst until I know otherwise.

As the cover was on, im not sure what was sparking, and I'm afraid to "just turn it on to see" without discovering a potential issue

And to confirm, both units were separately switched to 240v 60hz already, but I beleive the slave should be following the master regardless as well.

So is the AT being used to convert a euro 230v unit to split phase?

Yes, Euro 230v versions, configured to 240v going in, split phase coming out

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Aside from the following, which are design issues rather than what you're dealing with:

• You have 30kVA going into an AT that can only handle 100A between EU L and N.
• The AT can only handle 28/32V of current on the split phase N.

It sounds like it should work.

 

[ricardocello]

I cant confirm the AT is toast, but bad smell, sparks, no smoke, no visible PCB damage or burn marks inside the case. Ill assume the worst until I know otherwise.

I can’t think of a way to mis-wire an AT that would cause that. Could be the ground relay maybe if there was an incorrect current path.
Maybe pull the ground relay control on the AT and check voltages again.

Any chance a wire just wasn’t torqued down and it was arcing?

 

[CVCPJared]

Aside from the following, which are design issues rather than what you're dealing with:

• You have 30kVA going into an AT that can only handle 100A between EU L and N.
• The AT can only handle 28/32V of current on the split phase N.

It sounds like it should work.

Yeah, I plan to replace the AT in time. But that's what's on the permit so I'm going with it for now.

I can’t think of a way to mis-wire an AT that would cause that. Could be the ground relay maybe if there was an incorrect current path.
Maybe pull the ground relay control on the AT and check voltages again.

Any chance a wire just wasn’t torqued down and it was arcing?

I haven't changed anything on the wiring since it was working with 1 Quattro, pulling >8000w for over an hour with no issues. The only change was the paralleling for the 2x.

I combine them at a Busbar before the AT in an electrical box, and that's all torqued down. AC Out-1 on each Quattro - Line goes to 1x 250a Blue Sea busbar, Neutral goes to another, 2 lines in, 1 out of each busbar to the AT.

I'd be afraid to switch anything on ground before confirming since the issue it had before (backstory for others - I had it wired ground relay to earth relay but had S1 Off originally per my mis-understanding of the AT manual "Deactivate the inverter/charger's internal ground relay via the SW1 slide switch next to the "ground relay" terminal block". This put L2 voltage over my ground. @ricardocello pointed out that the Quattro manual said S1 needs to be on, that fixed the issue).

There's no control wire from Ground Relay on slave to AT but I understand from Victron Professional videos that the Master handles that.

 

[CVCPJared]

The AT was humming really loud too, with no connections downstream. I know people complain about Victron being too loud, but the 8000+w draw wasn't as loud as this. Or at least the fright in me perceived it as being louder

 

[ricardocello]

I haven't changed anything on the wiring since it was working with 1 Quattro, pulling >8000w for over an hour with no issues. The only change was the paralleling for the 2x.

Please confirm that “flip on the AT” means turning on its 100A breaker, and that’s when things went haywire.
And that quattro power was already going into the AT and it was fine (not humming).

Note: We shouldn’t be using Eggo’s thread for this btw.

 

[CVCPJared]

Please confirm that “flip on the AT” means turning on its 100A breaker, and that’s when things went haywire.
And that quattro power was already going into the AT and it was fine (not humming).

Note: We shouldn’t be using Eggo’s thread for this btw.

Correct. "Flip on AT" = turning on the AT breaker

I had seen other Victon questions posted here in the last 3000+ posts and I thought this was where the Victron gods resided. Apologies @sunshine_eggo I will move to the other thread then

 

[ricardocello]

Correct. "Flip on AT" = turning on the AT breaker

I had seen other Victon questions posted here in the last 3000+ posts and I thought this was where the Victron gods resided. Apologies @sunshine_eggo I will move to the other thread then

Good move posting here for Victron help. But it is easy to lose track of your stuff, on the next page we will probably be talking about VRM features.
I put a link to your thread here, we’ll follow.

C

Post in thread 'Victron Quattro DIY Battery Off Grid Build'

Mar 15, 2025

Moving this here from the Eurotrash thread, sorry for the double-post

I have 2x Quattro 15k going into a Victron AT (240v to 120/240v thrOugh the AT). I had 1 Quattro setup fully in VE Configure, working well, pulled >8000w to run both heat pumps on full blast, no issues. Set them up in parallel today using VEBus System configurator. Both on L1. Send configuration, they seem to act as expected. GX sees 1 Quattro, I turn it on, both turn on. Master has a green Inverting solid on, Slave flashes Inverter on and Mains on, which Victron toolkit confirms as slave. The main panel the AT goes to...

• CVCPJared

 

[sunshine_eggo]

This hasn't been my thread for a long time... It's Victron's...

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Yes. You're correct. I did something AMAZINGLY stupid. I was very carefully back tracking the (+) wire to the breaker between the MPPT and bus bar when it slipped out of my hand and the unstripped end hit the COVERED (-) bus bar... one of the (-) wire terminals... that I didn't put shrink on... POP went the 300A class T

No. I don't have a spare.

Yes. I bypassed the fuse. No! I'm NOT going without power!!!!! I'll see if an electrical supply place in town has a replacement. Otherwise, I'll use a shitty 70A breaker that I know will take 50A sustained when I leave it unattended in the next day or two (no loads exceed 1500W while I'm offsite). Until then, I'm raw doggin' that wire!

Circling back around to this stupidity... I have a few of these pulled from the PHEV packs from which the cells were harvested:



225A is a little on the light side with a peak max continuous of 193A, but this would have been a much cheaper and more desirable option than the 400A Class T that raped my wallet. If this is good enough for a 310.8V PHEV pack, it should be good enough at 51.8V...

 

[AH Trimble]

So while doing research, the Lynx system looks really slick in terms of being a clean setup. I originally just saw the Class-T Power-In, then saw they had a shunt.

But from what I can see, it really looks like for the most part the Lynx Shunt is kind of just an inferior product to a SmartShunt, especially considering the price?

I think if I built a system it'd just make more sense to buy some of those Blue Sea Systems class-T fuse holders, place them right by the batteries, and just use a SmartShunt.

Am I missing something here? Other than looking really cool, what's the deal with the Lynx Shunt?

That is version 2 of my system...just what you said.
After using it for almost 2 years and now upgrading my battery bank I am eliminating my BlueSea Class T and my Lynx Shunt.
I am installing a Lynx Class T and connecting my Color Control GX to the battery bank 'master' battery for monitoring directly to/from the battery bank vs a shunt.
You really can't compare a Lynx Shunt and a Smart Shunt...they are two different products performing two different tasks overall.
Also, how are you monitoring your system? And how are you configuring your battery bank?
If you are interested this is what my finished product will look like...

 

[fwunder]

Similar. Sorta. My version 1.5.

 

[AH Trimble]

Similar. Sorta. My version 1.5.

View attachment 285479

Very similar. I also modified my PowerIn for fuses. I use it for the charge controllers and inverters.
I decided against the switch on the battery bank, might regret that later.
For the Class T fuse(s) I went with the PowerIn Class T to protect each set of 4 batteries from each other just in case since that is the expensive side of the system.
I wish I had the Cerbo but the Color Control works for what I need.
Nice job BTW !
What did you use to create your schematic?

 

[SomethingAppropriate]

.

 

[fwunder]

Very similar. I also modified my PowerIn for fuses. I use it for the charge controllers and inverters.
I decided against the switch on the battery bank, might regret that later.

At least use a pre-charge resistor when deploying system. I didn't at first and blew a power board in battery ( Pytes warranty fix ). Long story, but...

For the Class T fuse(s) I went with the PowerIn Class T to protect each set of 4 batteries from each other just in case since that is the expensive side of the system.

Nothing wrong with Power In Class T and I would consider when expanding my battery bank.

I wish I had the Cerbo but the Color Control works for what I need.
Nice job BTW !

Cerbo is fun. Lots of stuff to work with. I've been playing with temp sensors and relays. Even looking at Mopeka sensors for home Propane and heating oil tanks. Wish there was a compatible flow meter to work with well water. I use Mopeka sensor on RV propane tank. Thanks

What did you use to create your schematic?

Old school graphics guy. I use Pixelmator Pro and Affinity Publisher on a Mac.

Keep asking questions and throwing out your ideas here. There's a lot of brain power here. I wish they were around 45 years ago when I was trying to coax my RS TRS 80 to print to my Royal daisy wheel typewriter!!

 

[ricardocello]

There's a lot of brain power here. I wish they were around 45 years ago when I was trying to coax my RS TRS 80 to print to my Royal daisy wheel typewriter!!

They were out there 45 years ago, but they were all on their BBS dial-up systems with 300 or 1200 baud modems

 

[Crowz]

At least use a pre-charge resistor when deploying system. I didn't at first and blew a power board in battery ( Pytes warranty fix ). Long story, but...



Nothing wrong with Power In Class T and I would consider when expanding my battery bank.



Cerbo is fun. Lots of stuff to work with. I've been playing with temp sensors and relays. Even looking at Mopeka sensors for home Propane and heating oil tanks. Wish there was a compatible flow meter to work with well water. I use Mopeka sensor on RV propane tank. Thanks



Old school graphics guy. I use Pixelmator Pro and Affinity Publisher on a Mac.

Keep asking questions and throwing out your ideas here. There's a lot of brain power here. I wish they were around 45 years ago when I was trying to coax my RS TRS 80 to print to my Royal daisy wheel typewriter!!

There was fidonet and such long before the internet. I ran a rather large bbs back in the day.

Still have every model of trs80 computer ever made and probably about all of the accessories too

 

[Crowz]

They were out there 45 years ago, but they were all on their BBS dial-up systems with 300 or 1200 baud modems

I remember when the acoustic coupler modem was all you could get. Things really took off when modems could dial for themselves and were hands free (no dialing and putting the receiver on the modem).

 

[ricardocello]

I remember when the acoustic coupler modem was all you could get. Things really took off when modems could dial for themselves and were hands free (no dialing and putting the receiver on the modem).

Those acoustic couplers were horrrrrrible, and frequently only did 110 baud. I can type faster than that.
When modems dialed, then we had the “call waiting” and “parents making a call” disconnect problems.
I’m feeling very old now, must stop.

 

[rhino]

I remember when the acoustic coupler modem was all you could get. Things really took off when modems could dial for themselves and were hands free (no dialing and putting the receiver on the modem).

I even got a 2nd remote phone number for my BBS that was geographically further away that could still call the main BBS number for free. It only forwarded calls to the main number but since was further away it allowed a wider geographic area of users to call the BBS for free.

 

[fwunder]

Man, you guys are old!! I thought I was hanging out with a bunch of young ( relatively ) brainiacs. Oh well. Does Voltaren work well for you too?

 

[cs1234]

Were any of you ever able to screech into the phone and cause a connection to a modem on the other end? I was. Not surprising considering how whiny and annoying I am.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

They were out there 45 years ago, but they were all on their BBS dial-up systems with 300 or 1200 baud modems

I missed out on the Trash 80s... School got a grant for a bunch of Tandy 1000s.