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Victron is Over-priced Eurotrash. Why would anybody buy Victron over an AiO?

Buzz Lighting said:
Brucey, I’ve been thinking about what you said that you find the 250/100’s more efficient and I came close to ordering two of those instead of this 450/100 but I got a good deal on this one so I pulled the trigger. Any additional ones will be the 250/100’s for sure.

Now that I’m done with the shed and the van, I’m going to continue the solar work on the house. I’ve been on the fence between four Multiplus II 5k’s and two Quattros 10k’s. At last the Quattros look to have won the battle. We are in the process of getting a 30x50 additional garage built and I want to account for that ahead of time and thus the reason for the 10k’s. I’ve been buying everything slowly.


Edit to add: Why does all the new Victron gear I get always smells like arse!:rolleyes:
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I have two of the 10k Quattro’s. Love them although the idle consumption of them is definitely higher than advertised. It’s a little more work wiring up 4 mp2 vs 2 Quattros but your idle consumption would be much less. Something to consider.
 
Enketchum said:
.... I just discovered several threads on the topic and I'm not sure what to do...

I used ferules on my 100/30 build...
Should I have done that? I am confused. Why are so many people arguing over this?
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As long as you don't have frayed wires and the clamps are tight it'll be fine. Make sure to re check they are tight.
 
Q-Dog said:
Victron used to be adamant about NOT using ferrules on their charge controllers. Now, they are allowed, but still not required. They are more concerned that you use the correct wire. If you damage or melt a connector on the charge controller they consider that installation error and do not cover it under warranty.
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I have used finestrand wire from 6 to 2ga with ferrels ( bigger where I use typically lug and bolt )
Every ferrel every case has performed flawlessly since I switched it on 3 years ago.

The Ferrell full of wire expand and fills into the needed shape of the device slot when tightened .some devices is a tat different. Maybe because some of it’s from 2018 - 2019….

…there’s NO loose whiskers waiting to short out some how…im glad they now endose their use ….I really was loosing sleep over this…

J
 
JoeHam said:
You’re fine, I’ve used them without any problems on 3 different 100/20’s for years without issue. Since Victron has softened their view no one needs to worry about warranty nonsense. I’d be shocked if anyone ever was taken to task by Victron over ferrules.

You’ll see some people almost get religious about some silly stuff.

It’s akin to trying to pick fly poop out of the pepper IMHO 😎.
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I think you’re right…I have wired a zillion thing without ferrels ….very few issues that wasnt my fault…
I think that working with super fine wire is a step up in skill level for beginners , seeing impaired folks, lazy or sloppy workers or drunks…

Some one at a Victron manager meeting finally came out and just said it….

“Boys, I think the problem we’re having with so many new people doing their own work is,
They Just Can’t Get It In The Hole Properly”…

This simple action affects many activity’s in life…

J.
 
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Andrewr05 said:
Ouch.

I feel like you could go on a local Facebook group and ask if anybody in your area has a 3D printer and you likely could have had them both made for like 20 bucks.
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These are aluminum...
There are many 3d printed options, but I don't think hanging something heavy that has high voltage and hot from pla is the best idea.
 
outboard1196 said:
These are aluminum...
There are many 3d printed options, but I don't think hanging something heavy that has high voltage and hot from pla is the best idea.
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Fair enough although some 3D printed material can be stronger than you think, it has come leaps and bounds in the past decade.

Plus if you are using it to mount fans then it would be running cooler and then likely would not get hot enough to affect it.

3D printed material is laid down by melting the material, I don't think that the heatsink on the back of an MPPT controller would ever get that hot.
 
Andrewr05 said:
Fair enough although some 3D printed material can be stronger than you think, it has come leaps and bounds in the past decade.

Plus if you are using it to mount fans then it would be running cooler and then likely would not get hot enough to affect it.

3D printed material is laid down by melting the material, I don't think that the heatsink on the back of an MPPT controller would ever get that hot.
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I have 3d printers myself. Sure it will be cool when the fans run, but if something fails and the fans don't work that could be a problem.
Also if used in an rv or similar, the vibration of going down the road could destroy plastic.
 
I used two short pieces of strut from some spare shelf mounting hardware.
Fireproof, easy to adapt to whatever width you need, several available size, and already has holes to put screws through
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I want to use a 75/15 as a dc-dc charger. I plan on connecting PV to 48V bank and batt to a separate 12v battery. I want to be able to use the load terminal to trigger charging via a relay that cuts off connection to 12v battery. This seems simple enough except for the fact that I can not put the voltage values into the 'user defined algorithm' backward i.e. on at 12V off at 13.2V is there a way to put these inverse values into the unit?

I know a Cerbo could probably switch the load on and off but it seems very unnecessary for my setup at this point. Is there a way to fool the Mppt into using my inverse values? Is there a battery monitor that I can use to switch the load terminal on perhaps?

If I buy a VE cable can I change the code in the SCC?

I know this is odd, but implemented properly it should do what I need.

The other option would be to use a Yolink Lora relay to trigger a high current relay either manually or via a schedule, but this seems clunky and will require some babysitting. I would have to leave the load output 'always on' to provide potential to trigger the relays.

Does anybody have any other ideas that aren't so ridiculous? Thank you.
 
The VRM app on my laptop isn't allowing me to hide the menu on the left side. Sometimes there's an X at the top, sometimes there isn't. Either way, the X doesn't hide the menu enough for me to see the entire details, so I can't see the battery state of charge %.

Anybody know how to hide the menu?

1749645782526.png
 
HRTKD said:
The VRM app on my laptop isn't allowing me to hide the menu on the left side. Sometimes there's an X at the top, sometimes there isn't. Either way, the X doesn't hide the menu enough for me to see the entire details, so I can't see the battery state of charge %.

Anybody know how to hide the menu?

View attachment 304273
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Have you tried to make the window smaller? That works on my desktop computer.
 
I just checked mine to make sure there wasn’t a clitch on their end, everything works fine.

Have you tried signing out then back in ?
 
NC_hydro said:
Seems like you have the screen resolution/DPI to old people mode, sometimes windows don't scale properly when the scaling is set to make text larger.
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Hey, I represent that remark!

That was the clue I needed. The screen was at 100% zoom, but when I changed it to 90% I can see everything I need to. Good to go.
 
MTM98290 said:
I want to use a 75/15 as a dc-dc charger. I plan on connecting PV to 48V bank and batt to a separate 12v battery. I want to be able to use the load terminal to trigger charging via a relay that cuts off connection to 12v battery. This seems simple enough except for the fact that I can not put the voltage values into the 'user defined algorithm' backward i.e. on at 12V off at 13.2V is there a way to put these inverse values into the unit?

I know a Cerbo could probably switch the load on and off but it seems very unnecessary for my setup at this point. Is there a way to fool the Mppt into using my inverse values? Is there a battery monitor that I can use to switch the load terminal on perhaps?

If I buy a VE cable can I change the code in the SCC?

I know this is odd, but implemented properly it should do what I need.

The other option would be to use a Yolink Lora relay to trigger a high current relay either manually or via a schedule, but this seems clunky and will require some babysitting. I would have to leave the load output 'always on' to provide potential to trigger the relays.

Does anybody have any other ideas that aren't so ridiculous? Thank you.
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So you want to use an SCC as a 48v to 12v charger?

Why not use the load output of the SCC to toggle a relay controlling the PV input to the SCC? Turn on or off the 48v charging source.

I wouldn’t want a relay togging the battery terminal connections of the SCC, I’d always want these made firm.
 
HRTKD said:
The VRM app on my laptop isn't allowing me to hide the menu on the left side. Sometimes there's an X at the top, sometimes there isn't. Either way, the X doesn't hide the menu enough for me to see the entire details, so I can't see the battery state of charge %.

Anybody know how to hide the menu?

View attachment 304273
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I’ve never used the VRM desktop app, always used the VRM web portal.
 
Final parts in hand for mp 12/1200. Also got the excavator out of the way, was running that one string of my 5p3s on 250/100 on its backside for a couple days until it was finally moved.

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740GLE said:
So you want to use an SCC as a 48v to 12v charger?

Why not use the load output of the SCC to toggle a relay controlling the PV input to the SCC? Turn on or off the 48v charging source.

I wouldn’t want a relay togging the battery terminal connections of the SCC, I’d always want these made firm.
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That would work, but most relays that I find are not rated for 48v must seem to top out at 24VDC. I did find a 60v rated unit for $120, but Id rather spend that on a GX device. What would concern you about switching the battery connection as opposed to the PV connection?

Thinking about it further, regardless of which connection is switched, I cannot set the load to go On at low voltage and Off at higher voltage.
 
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HRTKD said:
Hey, I represent that remark!

That was the clue I needed. The screen was at 100% zoom, but when I changed it to 90% I can see everything I need to. Good to go.
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My clue was the size of the text next to the menu. Dealt with that a lot in IT support over the years. Glad it was an easy fix.
 
I’m looking to buy some used Victron equipment, question….The person who owns the inverter but doesn’t have the password since she bought the house with it already installed, is there a way to get into the system without the password? System was bought from Current connected so maybe they could help.
 
Haze said:
I’m looking to buy some used Victron equipment, question….The person who owns the inverter but doesn’t have the password since she bought the house with it already installed, is there a way to get into the system without the password? System was bought from Current connected so maybe they could help.
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Are you talking about a login to VRM? There is a password ZZZ for some other setup configs.
 
Haze said:
I’m looking to buy some used Victron equipment, question….The person who owns the inverter but doesn’t have the password since she bought the house with it already installed, is there a way to get into the system without the password? System was bought from Current connected so maybe they could help.
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What password do you need? Is there a Cerbo or something else?
 
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