diy solar

diy solar

Voltage change from panels to batteries

Well, I just pulled the trigger and ordered 16 of the $50 SatTan panels that Will tested as "pretty good". Only 4 of them are for me. The specs are below:

Rated Power: 250W
Open circuit voltage (VOC): 37.6 V
Max power voltage (VMP): 30.3 V
Short circuit current (ISC): 8.85 A
Max power current: 8.27 A
Power Tolerance 0/+3%
Maximum system voltage: 600V (UL)
Fuse Rating: 15 A
IP65 Junction Box w/MC4 Compatible Connectors

At the moment, I have one 100ah, Battle Born with the integrated heating pad. I will probably buy a second, but not this year. The BB bat will accept 60amps of input for charging, so I'm looking at either of these two MPPT controllers. I also need a wifi modules so I can see how the system is running from "anywhere". During the winter, its difficult to get to my cabin where this system will be. All that the system will be running during the winter is security cameras.

EPEVER 40A MPPT
or
EPEVER Tracer 60A (I think I'll end up with this one if if will work with the wifi module)

I'll use the EPEVER wifi module so I can look at performance with my cell phone.

At some point, I might convert my system to 24v, but not certain, so I'm trying to buy equipment that will leave that option open.

Do any of you see errors or blunders in my plan?

Thanks in advance, vw
 
1000W is a good amount of overpanel on a 40A controller. Not that it will hurt it but I would probably go with the 60A version if you are going to put 1000W to it. Epever is not as clear on its max current specs. For example, Victron limits solar panel input current to 60A short circuit current with their 50A controller.

Why not go with the Victron? Bluetooth built-in and if you pair it with a Victron monitor, you get wireless remote voltage sense for free. Get the Victron 100/50. Would be perfect.
 
Simply amazing. I guess all the solar panels that are on commercial solar farms should convert all their MPPT based microinverter technology to PWM as well? Just ridiculous!
If you were able to understand the topic, you would have realized that we were speaking about small OFF-GRID situations.
There is no doubt that ON-GRID MPPT is the way to go. Always.
Low Power OFF-GRID is just very different and which approach is the best depends on a LOT of parameters.
 
If you were able to understand the topic, you would have realized that we were speaking about small OFF-GRID situations.
There is no doubt that ON-GRID MPPT is the way to go. Always.
Low Power OFF-GRID is just very different and which approach is the best depends on a LOT of parameters.
The OP was asking about higher voltage panels and he is buying 1000W of higher voltage panels...LOL...who is off topic here? You might just want to stop now.
 
The OP was asking about higher voltage panels and he is buying 1000W of higher voltage panels...LOL...who is off topic here? You might just want to stop now.
Really?
"I see several voltage on solar panels, such as 12v/37v/48v. Do I have to buy 12v solar panels if I have 12v batteries...

Does that sound like the industrial solar farms?
As a new member you ought to change your mindset. Don't mind to answer: i am ignoring you from now on (and Bradbill as well).
 
Really?
"I see several voltage on solar panels, such as 12v/37v/48v. Do I have to buy 12v solar panels if I have 12v batteries...

Does that sound like the industrial solar farms you argued with?
As a new member you ought to change your mindset. Don't mind to answer: i am ignoring you from now on.
What the H are you talking about? When did I mention Solar farms?

You are the one that started arguing about things that were unrelated to the OP's topic. OP is using an MPPT controller. You are the one that got his panties in a bunch.
 
Well, I just pulled the Rated Power: 250W
EPEVER 40A MPPT
or
EPEVER Tracer 60A (I think I'll end up with this

Do any of you see errors or blunders in my plan?

Thanks in advance, vw
So I have the tracer 40, putting 400W 24V. Probably going to add 2 more 100W panels. Ratings are good, stated overpanel capacity- fine. Happy.

BUT I’m big on not running things maxed out. I overcable, I like duty headroom in devices. Nothing has ever burned for me being under capacity.
So in your case I’d do the 60. IIRC that would even support those panels 2S3P or more, leaving you plenty of headroom to grow into should you choose.
[Jealous. Don’t know why! I don’t need that much power currently, a), and I’m trying to buy property, b), so don’t want to spend the moula but I’d love to buy 16 of those myself.]
 
I just pulled the trigger and ordered 16 of the $50 SatTan panels that Will tested as "pretty good"

I bought a few singlets off a pallet that appear to the same as the Santan. They are working great. I run 3 of them on the epever 40A and would use the 60A for 4.


I also need a wifi modules so I can see how the system is running from "anywhere"

That's not what the epever wifi module does, AFAIK. My understanding is it'sa direct device to device wifi connection, not a routable connection you can see from the internet. Note that the manual (such as it is) specifies "Communication distance up to 50m". You might need to roll your own microwebserver or uploader using a Pi talking to the controller or something.

I chose the BT version because it doesn't require you to drop your wifi connection to establish adhoc with the device.

Other BT/wifi modules (Victron, etc) might publish their info directly with a dinky webserver or upload to somewhere publicly visible; dunno. Those owners will need to chime in.
 
I bought a few singlets off a pallet that appear to the same as the Santan. They are working great. I run 3 of them on the epever 40A and would use the 60A for 4.




That's not what the epever wifi module does, AFAIK. My understanding is it'sa direct device to device wifi connection, not a routable connection you can see from the internet. Note that the manual (such as it is) specifies "Communication distance up to 50m". You might need to roll your own microwebserver or uploader using a Pi talking to the controller or something.

I chose the BT version because it doesn't require you to drop your wifi connection to establish adhoc with the device.

Other BT/wifi modules (Victron, etc) might publish their info directly with a dinky webserver or upload to somewhere publicly visible; dunno. Those owners will need to chime in.
I agree...it's kinda dumb to have this as a way to communicate since it is acting as it's own WiFi connection point. That means you have to change to your phone/tablet to this new WiFi port every time you want to use it. You want something with a Bluetooth connection.

read the one star reviews on Amazon.
 
Back
Top