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WattCycle 12V 300Ah Mini inside look

if you want to keep them you can probably shorten the cables and cut 2" x 2" pieces of tin then tape it for insulation and put it under the spot where the bolt tops touch.

Personally I am totally done with Wattcycle as a company after the refund comes through.
 
Glad i spotted this thread. I just bought a 300ah of a different brand but given how many are relabeled identical copies this gives me something to check for before installing it out of sight in my RV and forgetting about it! :oops:
 
Glad i spotted this thread. I just bought a 300ah of a different brand but given how many are relabeled identical copies this gives me something to check for before installing it out of sight in my RV and forgetting about it! :oops:
Which brand??
 
Sending these pictures to them right now
Thanks Will, I will wait and see their reply to you, and if they change their minds on fixing these issues before I return mine for refund.
I would much rather have two new replacements with "all" the issues fixed.
This was finally an affordable battery with enough amp hours and small form
factor that I needed for my limited space in RV.
I could fit two of these in the same space as two 6 volt group 24's are now.

Was so hopeful that these would work for me.
 
I am a whore - they offered another 12.8v100ah battery if I keep it - so I will accept that -

I am replacing the BMS with a JBD version and see about designing an expansion ring to lift the top slightly to accomodate the new BMS and keep from touching the terminal bolt heads to the top of the battery.

Will probably have to print that in 2 parts since my printer bed isn't large enough, at least I don't think it is...

So, once the new BMS arrives install it, then measure and print expansion ring along with spacers to put on the top of the metal bits... might just use U shapped metal that lays on top of the center that sticks up and touches the sides... or a cross brace for the expansion ring... going to think on it.

Other thread

 
At least they admit the wire length is an issue - most mfg would deny anything wrong.

I do differ with them on the clearance height terminal bolt to cells.- it is pretty much zero when the lid is all the way on. I wonder if they forgot to take into account the flat washer and the lock washer when the modeled it.... just putting in grub screws and serrated nuts would take care of it.... the more I think about it the more ways there are to fix the issue.

I don't suppose you checked the cell barcode to verify they are grade A cells?
 
What brand cells have you guys found in your wattcycle batteries? Their website says they are eve cells. Just curious.
1738016508690.png

View attachment 272123
DUMFUME?

I saw it for $299 and decided to take a shot. I have it but havent opened it yet. Ill take a look today hopefully.
Have you opened yours yet? I got a deal a few days ago on ...Temu... 2nd time I have ordered anything from them but with the coupons they gave me it came out to $850 total for 4 of the 300ah batteries. I just got shipping confirmation today from Walnut CA which is where wattcycle ships from. For the price to capacity I think it is worth the risk. I have a feeling they are likely the mislabeled 280ah original wattcycle (300ah mini) that the manufacture is trying to dump cheap under random brand names. Even at 280ah is seems cheap. Worse case I plan to use this in a 48v system I am installing in an RV and I can connect them in serial and wire up a JK BMS I have in a 16s configuration.

That Dunfume seems to only have a 100 amp BMS.
The 300ah says it is a 200 amp BMS and all of the specs are identical to the wattcycle.
 
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See the QR codes for yourself.

I don't trust the BMS and have ordered a JBD 300amp 4s BMS.

The serial numbers come up as valid EVE cells for 280ah

04QCB76G40803JE1Y0004376
04QCB76G51703JE1Y0004614
04QСВ76G4080ЗЈЕ1У0004З41
04QCВ76С4080ЗJE1У0004З76
 

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See the QR codes for yourself.

I don't trust the BMS and have ordered a JBD 300amp 4s BMS.

The serial numbers come up as valid EVE cells for 280ah

04QCB76G40803JE1Y0004376
04QCB76G51703JE1Y0004614
04QСВ76G4080ЗЈЕ1У0004З41
04QCВ76С4080ЗJE1У0004З76
At least they are using good cells. It looks like they did do a lot of things right. Just a lot of early production woes that often get missed with products that are distributed directly from Chinese manufactures rather than build for existing companies that do their own testing and small batch production runs prior to production release.
 
Note, you can buy the cells for $85 each from 18650batterystore.com... but you need to add a BMS, Separators, and a method of confining or compressing the cells.

Or the 314ah cells for $90 each.

4 X 90 = $360
BMS between $50 and $120 depending on model and features.
Separators $2 each for epoxy panels.
Kapton 2" tape $10 or do it another way.

So $490 for all the bells and whistles just restraining the cells. Another $40ish if you compress them

Plastic case $10 for whatever they fit inside, thrift shop or Walmart.

But if you want 48v batteries the price per cell drops, the bms is similar but now only one of them verse 4 of them

16 x $88 = $1408 for 314ah cells. 16076Whrs
$120ish for BMS
16 separators at $2 for $32
Tape or compression

Maybe a DIY case - $200

So around $1700 total for that amount of power...

And if you start with raw cells you have a known quantity verse scrapping out 4 batteries.

So $800 plus $120 for a 16s JBD and you have compression... so maybe it makes sense
 
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What brand cells have you guys found in your wattcycle batteries? Their website says they are eve cells. Just curious.
View attachment 273680


Have you opened yours yet? I got a deal a few days ago on ...Temu... 2nd time I have ordered anything from them but with the coupons they gave me it came out to $850 total for 4 of the 300ah batteries. I just got shipping confirmation today from Walnut CA which is where wattcycle ships from. For the price to capacity I think it is worth the risk. I have a feeling they are likely the mislabeled 280ah original wattcycle (300ah mini) that the manufacture is trying to dump cheap under random brand names. Even at 280ah is seems cheap. Worse case I plan to use this in a 48v system I am installing in an RV and I can connect them in serial and wire up a JK BMS I have in a 16s configuration.


The 300ah says it is a 200 amp BMS and all of the specs are identical to the wattcycle.


What is your Link to those on aliexpress
 
Note, you can buy the cells for $85 each from 18650batterystore.com... but you need to add a BMS, Separators, and a method of confining or compressingthe cells.

Or the 314ah cells for $90 each.

4 X 90 = $360
BMS between $50 and $120 depending on model and features.
Separators $2 each for epoxy panels.
Kapton 2" tape $10 or do it another way.

So $490 for all the bells and whistles just restraining the cells. Another $40ish if you compress them

Plastic case $10 for whatever they fit inside, thrift shop or waWalmart.

But if you want 4iv batteries the price per cell drops, the bms is similar but now only one of them verse 4 of them

16 x $88 = $1408 for 314ah cells. 16076Whrs
$120ish for BMS
16 separators at $2 for $32
Tape or compression

Maybe a DIY case - $200

So around $1700 total for that amount of power...

And if you start with raw cells you have a known quantity verse scrapping out 4 batteries.

So $800 plus $120 for a 16s JBD and you have compression... so maybe it makes sense
I looked at cells. for 16 LF280 on 18650batterystore.com it is $1400 with shipping. I got these for $850 OTD. I already have one 150A JK BMS with 2 amp active balancing. I might just open them up and connect the balancing leads. Keep them all in the original cases but run them as a 16s. I have a compartment they will all fit in next to each other perfectly. Would just have to be creative with how I wire up the BMS. Would likely install it in the first battery then run a cable from the last battery ground to the BMS. It would be a little funky but would be a lot easier than making a case for a 16s battery that would weight 240lbs alone when all said and done.

First thing is I will need to crack one open when they get here and see what they look like. If they look ok I might just run them as is. Hopefully the lid comes off them as easily as the wattcycle branded ones lol
 
If you intend running them as 48v, pop the tops and connect them together along with the balance leads... I might slide the guts out of the cases and then hook just the cores together. Then either run them without tops or cut out the lids for the cables between the last and next cell.
 
If you intend running them as 48v, pop the tops and connect them together along with the balance leads... I might slide the guts out of the cases and then hook just the cores together. Then either run them without tops or cut out the lids for the cables between the last and next cell.
Depending on what they look like when i open them up that will probably be the plan. that or make holes for balance leads and put lids back on maybe. Not sure yet but even if they are the 280ah cells I am at $59 a Kwh which is darn cheap if you ask me.
 
They will be 280ah , the 304ah cells needed are slightly larger than the 280ah and won't fit in the case
 
Have you opened yours yet? I got a deal a few days ago on ...Temu... 2nd time I have ordered anything from them but with the coupons they gave me it came out to $850 total for 4 of the 300ah batteries. I just got shipping confirmation today from Walnut CA which is where wattcycle ships from. For the price to capacity I think it is worth the risk.
I agree on worth the risk. All ive done with mine so far is open the box and inspect it. My lid is not popped yet (kinda wish it was!) and doesnt appear to be bulging in the middle from BMS but when i put pressure in the middle of the lid there is definitely no empty space under it for it to flex into, so it's a tight fit regardless. Im tempted to jostle mine around and see if the lid pops loose because it would probably come off cleaner than me prying/cutting it open myself.. :ROFLMAO:
 
If you want it open clean - put a jewlers flat blade about 2/3rds of the way back on the right side - you standing at the end with the terminals... pry enough to open the case for a narrow putty knife or regular flat blade -- at some point it should just pop open since they just used a silicone adhesive to glue it down.
 
I agree on worth the risk. All ive done with mine so far is open the box and inspect it. My lid is not popped yet (kinda wish it was!) and doesnt appear to be bulging in the middle from BMS but when i put pressure in the middle of the lid there is definitely no empty space under it for it to flex into, so it's a tight fit regardless. Im tempted to jostle mine around and see if the lid pops loose because it would probably come off cleaner than me prying/cutting it open myself.. :ROFLMAO:
lol I was hoping for the same thing. They are being delivered today and I was thinking. Man I really wish I open the boxes and the lids are all loose...;)
 

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