What do you think of this Setup? Kisae Abso MPPT/DC-DC based
- Thread starter redmessengerbag
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ianganderton
Auckland, NZ
I think the lower value is the voltage it uses and the second is for over paneling tolerance
Directshort
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I'm not sure but I thought the Kisae had the ability to be "over-paneled" and able to shed excess wattage in order to allow the extra capacity to make the most available power during off-peak hours of sun?
eXodus
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Great device, I have to look into it.
The switch is expensive and you run a bunch of wires for a "just in case scenario. "
You could just add 200A relay between the house and chassis battery Positive right at Kisae. Trigger it with a switch.
Cost like 15 bucks and you can jumpstart yourself.
I drew this in a hurry, so you have to figure out the fuse by yourself
You asked about grounding - I have my all battery negative "grounded" to chassis. Most RVs do it that way. But there are some setups where they switch with the negative side of the batteries. Not very common.
The switch is expensive and you run a bunch of wires for a "just in case scenario. "
You could just add 200A relay between the house and chassis battery Positive right at Kisae. Trigger it with a switch.
Cost like 15 bucks and you can jumpstart yourself.
I drew this in a hurry, so you have to figure out the fuse by yourself
You asked about grounding - I have my all battery negative "grounded" to chassis. Most RVs do it that way. But there are some setups where they switch with the negative side of the batteries. Not very common.
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Bummer I had hoped you figured something out for this. I have almost the exact same setup (no solar right now) but plan to pull around 1500w when cooking. So I'm thinking of using a relay to bypass the BMS.
What program are you drawing that in? looks good!
eXodus
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Get a Induction cooktop. BMS 120A @ 13.2V = 1584w So if you get one with 1200w you should be fine.
Or a propane/butane cooktop. Sizing batteries for cooking is not fun. Got tired of it and got a $30 burner. Going through maybe $20 worth of fuel a year.
Directshort
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Yeah once I realized it would cost a couple grand + - extra to buy a quality inverter sized to run induction plus the extra battery bank and then extra solar panel capacity needed to cook a few meals a day it wasn't worth it for me as a part timer. Full timer then would be worth the upfront costs.
I always carry a propane jug anyways for nitetime propane campfire ring (allowed even during fire bans common in the mid-west) and for interior heater but I realize some will not tolerate the extra risk with using propane.
I always carry a propane jug anyways for nitetime propane campfire ring (allowed even during fire bans common in the mid-west) and for interior heater but I realize some will not tolerate the extra risk with using propane.
I mainly use my pizzazz pizza maker, plus tv, and furnace running I'll be well over it for a while. I don't have room for a stationary cook top. I use an butane one for that.
eXodus
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Just shut down the furnace while you run the pizza maker (1200w). The Pizza thing is heating up the room anyhow.
Talked to a service rep from Kisae today. Told me that the unit triggers an automatic shutdown of the charging when it reads 51v from the PV input channel, and will automatically start back up again when it reads it at 48v.
Mex Rider
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Perko has a battery switch that is 1, 2, all, off
Anybody know if the Kisae DC-DC charger will trickle charge the starter from the house batteries?Great device, I have to look into it.
The switch is expensive and you run a bunch of wires for a "just in case scenario. "
You could just add 200A relay between the house and chassis battery Positive right at Kisae. Trigger it with a switch.
Cost like 15 bucks and you can jumpstart yourself.View attachment 18832
I drew this in a hurry, so you have to figure out the fuse by yourself
You asked about grounding - I have my all battery negative "grounded" to chassis. Most RVs do it that way. But there are some setups where they switch with the negative side of the batteries. Not very common.
I confirmed with Kisae today that the "normal" setup doesn't allow electrons to flow in the "wrong" direction and charge the starter....Though there are ways to wire the connections, with a switch, that let you jump yourself off when the starter is discharged.
redmessengerbag
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yep, that's why I have the switch in my diagram.
I have been thinking about replacing the SurePower 1314-200 battery separator in my 2016 PleasureWay Lexor class B with a DC-DC charger, so this thread is right on the money. The RV came with 2 proprietary (EcoIon) 100 Ah LiFeP04 batteries with built-in BMS and 3 95 watt 12V solar panels going through a GoPower PWM solar charger. Under the hood, the SurePower is connected to the house batteries with two 1/0 or 2/0 cables (not sure which) that run the length of the RV, each with a 150 amp fuse in-line, with similar lines going to the 220 amp dumb alternator. The one thing I like about the setup is that I get 100+ amps going back to the house batteries when they are depleted, so driving restores the batteries quickly. However, I worry about putting that much current out all the time and how that will affect the longevity of the lithium batteries and alternator and that this charging set up is not designed to optimally charge the batteries to 100%. The way PW configures the alternator charging seems to me to be sub-optimal for lithium. It is essentially the same system that was in place prior to PW switching entirely to their proprietary LiFePO4 batteries in 2016, other than doubling up on the cables to handle the additional current that the LiFePO4 batteries will freely take. On the other hand, as far as I can tell they used this same system in their from 2016-2019 Lexor models, so it must work and not be causing too many warranty complaints. After perusing their manuals for different model years, it seems that they switched to a Mastervolt (Mac Plus12/12-50) DC-DC charger for the 2020 model years, so this might justify my thoughts.
As I looked at the solutions presented here, it occurred to me that I could ditch the SurePower and use a high current switch like the one described to bypass a DC-DC charger so that in cases where we needed to quickly charge the batteries, I could use the essentially unregulated setup that came with the RV. Most of the time we're on the road for at least 4-6 hours between stops, so the more sophisticated charging provided by a good DC-DC charger would be kinder on the batteries as well as the alternator and still get us a full charge. On top of that, I can swap out the PWM solar charger for the built-in MPPT. Seems like a no-brainer, but I would appreciate thoughts on this idea.
As I looked at the solutions presented here, it occurred to me that I could ditch the SurePower and use a high current switch like the one described to bypass a DC-DC charger so that in cases where we needed to quickly charge the batteries, I could use the essentially unregulated setup that came with the RV. Most of the time we're on the road for at least 4-6 hours between stops, so the more sophisticated charging provided by a good DC-DC charger would be kinder on the batteries as well as the alternator and still get us a full charge. On top of that, I can swap out the PWM solar charger for the built-in MPPT. Seems like a no-brainer, but I would appreciate thoughts on this idea.
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The Kisae unit is one that I like so far...you'd only be getting 50Amps to charge, but that's surely sufficient given the driving times you describe, and it's certainly better on the battery to use charging algorithms that are CCCV, and yeah...you'd get a nice bump in the solar output probably from the MPPT too...Hein carries the Kisae units and they're not that expensive, relatively speaking...seems like a solid choice to me so far!
It does...the 50A version has a max of 600W of solar support on an over-panel setup...500W if not over-panelled per the manual
I like the idea of this realy and switch as a "jumpstart yourself" option (my daughter will be using the RV alone, not always in reach of AAA)...does it have to be a switched relay, or might a simple breaker do the trick (not sure if the breaker would instantly trip or not).Great device, I have to look into it.
The switch is expensive and you run a bunch of wires for a "just in case scenario. "
You could just add 200A relay between the house and chassis battery Positive right at Kisae. Trigger it with a switch.
Cost like 15 bucks and you can jumpstart yourself.View attachment 18832
I drew this in a hurry, so you have to figure out the fuse by yourself
You asked about grounding - I have my all battery negative "grounded" to chassis. Most RVs do it that way. But there are some setups where they switch with the negative side of the batteries. Not very common.
FWIW, I just got a few diagrams from Kisae describing two methods for doing this setup...they use a Blue Sea Switch two different ways to acheive this jumpstart capability...I'm still wondering, though, if I can use a circuit breaker as the switch.
FWIW, Kisae also sent me a diagram on how to wire the starter to charge from solar, using a 50A DPDT switch that is connected to the house batteries...I don't exactly understand the diagram yet, but if anybody is looking for an option to charge the starter with solar...they have a diagram.
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