What is the logical order for testing Li Ion cells?

[AceSolar1]

So, this is all new to me. I'm just trying to learn the best logical order of steps to get through testing many lithium ion cells that I've managed to collect over time. I have both the Opus BT-C3400 & Liitokala Lii-600 chargers.

I'd like for you to tell me in which order the following numbers belong in down below (in logical steps, of course!) :

• 1. Gather many laptop, power tools, and other appliance power packs/batteries.
• 2. Harvest/extract all lithium ion cells out of each power pack/battery.
• 3. Check for any visual signs of cracked, bloated, rusted, or damaged cells to quickly get rid of them.

*Actual testing methods begin below, but which order? I mainly need help with the order below:

• 4. Voltage test - Using an AtroAI multi-meter to make sure that each cell is at least 2.1v to 2.5v and above.
• 5. Capacity test mode - Use either the Opus or Liitokala to do a charge/discharge/charge cycle to find the capacity of each cell in mAh.
• 6. Regular Charge mode- Just do a regular charge on these old cells before doing any of the other tests.
• 7. Recondition/Refresh/Revive/Repair mode - This is when you see if the old cell's voltage is too low or lost entirely, to bring it back so that the charger can detect it, then begin the charging & discharging steps in hopes to save the battery from going into the trash can & into a project instead.
• 8. Discharge mode - Discharge the cell to see how much energy it is capable of producing in mAh.
• 9. Internal Resistance test - test the cell's internal electrical resistance, which is the opposition within the cell to the flow of current. This resistance arises from various sources, including the electrolyte, the electrodes, and the connections inside the cell. Internal resistance is a key indicator of the health and condition of a battery. A low internal resistance typically indicates a healthy cell, whereas a high internal resistance can be a sign of aging, deterioration, or damage within the battery. <= 50 milliohms and below is deemed to be okay for IR.
• 10. The wait test - Wait anywhere between 1-2 weeks to see if the cells lose charge without being used. If the voltages & mAh drops too low again, then they're no good. The ones that remain closest to the charged state should be deemed "useable".

Okay, so, after listing out all of the steps above, which order do you prefer to handle these steps and why?

 

[BigGun]

Go to https://budgetlightforum.com Search those 2 chargers . They have been discussed numerous times over the years

FYI The IR test on the Opus is useless and the Lii-600 is right behind it . With the Opus, you need to upgrade the PS and fan or it will continually stop and restart because of heat issues. I have 6 OPUS I use when I do Li-ion cells . I use a correction factor for discharging, the factory readings are not calibrated with each other. If you want to end up with usable cells (JMO) test for capacity the get that resistance meter some one else recommended in your other tread. Combine the 2 measurements. Resistance being close to spec is key to good cells JMTS

 

[AceSolar1]

Go to https://budgetlightforum.com Search those 2 chargers . They have been discussed numerous times over the years

FYI The IR test on the Opus is useless and the Lii-600 is right behind it . With the Opus, you need to upgrade the PS and fan or it will continually stop and restart because of heat issues. I have 6 OPUS I use when I do Li-ion cells . I use a correction factor for discharging, the factory readings are not calibrated with each other. If you want to end up with usable cells (JMO) test for capacity the get that resistance meter some one else recommended in your other tread. Combine the 2 measurements. Resistance being close to spec is key to good cells JMTS

Thank you so much! I will definitely consider your recommendations. BTW, which IR tester would you recommend in terms of accuracy out of the sm8124a, RC3563, & YR1035+?

 

[BigGun]

I have both the RC3563 and the YR1035. I like the YR1035 better for 18650 cells. The RC3563 works better for full packs and big LifePo4 batteries. Also I like the probes better than the clamp fixture, you have to calibrate for each ( no big deal)