What Size Fuse? (15 A Was Warm)(30 A said current shunt)...Fuse did not blow.

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#4 AWG Solar Panel Wires (coming in house) ...(Current Shunt / Volts / Amp Meter) is installed.... Transitioned to ((( #10 AWG ))) ... Anderson 30A Connectors into my "All In One" Solar Generator .... It can only pull 15A Max.

(Current Meter Read 30+ Amps Today)

....Not sure how this could even happen as the generator can only pull 15A.

Installed a nice 15A inline slow blow solar fuse. My reason was basically to protect the solar generator (that most likely has its own anyway)

Alarm went off on the meter and I noted 30 amp reading and the 15A fuse was hot, but did not blow (not even after some time)

#10 AWG would be my smallest conductor.

Figuring to change this fuse to a 30A = 10AWG (THHN/THWN... Good for much more)

I guess I don't need a nuisance trip and this is a rather nice permanently crimped inline fuse (Signature Solar) that can't be easily changed so....
.... I guess the best thing to do is protect my #10. --- The 15A didn't blow forever so this one can't.

I hooked up the current shunt on (-) side .... 5 ft from the generator (Could I Be Just Getting False Readings)?

 

[robbob2112]

You have something funky going on --

Information please -

Panels - type and wiring configuration - picture of the sticker off the back
Fuse type? Some run hotter than others just because of how they are made. Many fuses of the fast blow variety will carry twice their rated current for 10 minutes or so, but blow in a fraction of a second at 6x rated current. There should be a time/current curve in the datasheet.... link where you bought the fuse

What voltage are you reading where the wires connect to the SCC?

If you have a hot spot at one location it is usally a bad connection

 

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(This is an all in one Oupes Mega 3 Solar Generator - Solar Input Max 150V/ 15A / 2,100W ) Panels 4 - 485W Bifacials (2S2P) 54 VOC each = (103 V) (30A) at shunt.

200ft wire run / #4AWG / about 3% V drop .... I generally see 95V in summer ... Been 108 V in winter mornings. This afternoon (shunt read) 89 V and 2.67 Kw (Oupes indicated it was only taking in about 1,300 W)

...Hard to give accurate specifics as the Oupes does not give current or voltage. I have to get that info from the shunt meter. Shunt always says it's at a higher wattage than the machine. Never saw this before. Current has always got close to 15A (the max draw of charge controller...supposedly)... little over 15A on occasion but then back down 5,10, etc.

 

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Panels & Shunt reading

 

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Oupes reading

 

[rogerheflin]

What wire is the CT/current measuring device on?

 

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Perhaps the shunt is defective or It's hooked up wrong? (never problems before) I never did feel the 15A fuse as there was no reason to so I don't know if this "warm" is just normal. Shunt is sort of a cheapo from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/DC-Display-M...&sprefix=nodehawk+current+shunt,aps,93&sr=8-2

 

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What wire is the CT/current measuring device on?

Newbie CT (charge controller?) Shunt is reading on Negative (Fused Positive)

 

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What wire is the CT/current measuring device on?

 

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What wire is the CT/current measuring device on?

Negative through shunt, then continues to CT // In line fused positive

 

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Sorry... Jumping back and forth on cell / pc === Negative lead through shunt then to Oupes // Positive inline fuse

 

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What wire is the CT/current measuring device on?

Negative

 

[rogerheflin]

If you have a single string of panels there is just about no way that the panels can exceed their Isc rating by much even in the best sun conditions.

So the shunt would likely be the fault.

I have found the unbranded/random-letters-branded stuff is often garbage.

 

[hwy17]

You don't generally fuse solar wires, with some exceptions like when putting 3 or more strings in parallel.

Think about how if the panel's ISC is 12A and the fuse is 15A, what is that fuse protecting? The panels could never blow the fuse even if the ends were short circuited.