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Whats a good 48v battery charger

When you look for a charger above 1kW to be run on a generator you should look for one with a good power factor rating.

Generators, inverters, and transformers are actually rated for VA not watts. A poor power factor requires a generator nearly twice the rating of charger.

A typical uncorrected power factor charger has a power factor of 0.6. A good PF corrected unit is greater than 0.9.
 
When you look for a charger above 1kW to be run on a generator you should look for one with a good power factor rating.

Generators, inverters, and transformers are actually rated for VA not watts. A poor power factor requires a generator nearly twice the rating of charger.

A typical uncorrected power factor charger has a power factor of 0.6. A good PF corrected unit is greater than 0.9.
If it's switch mode (ie. feels light, not heavy), then it will be much weirder than that. They tend to draw weird harmonics from the peak voltages to charge the supply capacitors through the rectifier. Means often the cycle is almost no current for 70% and only drawing current for 30% or less. Makes PF calcs almost impossible to my knowledge. The current draw is not even close to sine. Add that to an inverter generator and your loads can be "interesting".
They can include active PF correction, but that actually reduces efficiency, and tends to be there for permitting / compliance reasons for the grid. I have never seen info on how that affects generators / inverter generators.
 
If it's switch mode (ie. feels light, not heavy), then it will be much weirder than that. They tend to draw weird harmonics from the peak voltages to charge the supply capacitors through the rectifier. Means often the cycle is almost no current for 70% and only drawing current for 30% or less. Makes PF calcs almost impossible to my knowledge. The current draw is not even close to sine. Add that to an inverter generator and your loads can be "interesting".
Uncorrected PF supply. All the power is supplied by the short, high current pulses (blue). The short, high current pulses require generator of greater power capability.
PF for rect-filter cap.png

Switch mode chargers can have power factor correction. Most computer power supplies these days have PF correction (driven by European regulations)
80plus.png

PF correction is usually a half sinewave pre-boost switcher between rectifier and filter capacitor to charge the filter cap with a near sinewave current profile.

A low freq hybrid inverter/charger has a good PF for charging. Not all high freq hybrid inverter/chargers do have good PF.
 
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It your fan noisy (fast speed)? And sometimes never slow down / shut off when charge finished (stay noisy)
At the full charge rate - how much heat comes out?
Does the charge rate slow down to about 50% after 30mins due to heat?

Mine is out in the garage so none of that noise stuff matters to me. If I get a low charge day (100% off grid) then I start the generator to run all night and let the 2 gallons of gas burn through and shut off, thus the AIMS turns off. I can still get all 6000w of power without then generator trying to run loads also and stalling out. Which was happening when I tried to use the MPP genny input. I don't need a 6000w genny that uses 8 gallons of gas a night. All the gen does is charge - well, or to run power tools etc sometimes.

I mounted the charger with the fan on the bottom blowing heat up and out to get best of both worlds (heat rising up like a heat sink style charger and fan helping it rise). Its usually 20 to 30 deg in my garage this winter on average at night so thats a cold breeze to keep it cool. In the summer our desert is always sunny and we didnt need a charger until the recent winter storms in Dec. that flew east.

You could always dremel/ grind off the top grid/Outlet for more air flow. Same for the fan side and or add a 110mm quieter fan.
 
When you look for a charger above 1kW to be run on a generator you should look for one with a good power factor rating.

Generators, inverters, and transformers are actually rated for VA not watts. A poor power factor requires a generator nearly twice the rating of charger.

A typical uncorrected power factor charger has a power factor of 0.6. A good PF corrected unit is greater than 0.9.

There a very very few 48v lifepo chargers

I guess for smaller generators you could get 48v 2000w MPP or growatt (MPP sister) and hook that up to the battery and just use the charger. I think the 48v ones all use the same charger with the same specs/paperwork when I was looking. I just didnt want to double my generator size and gas amount to be able to microwave dinner and/or also run the well pump for 2 minutes to fill my pressure tank while it's charging leading to a overloaded 3000w genny
 
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Aloha Fam,

Trying to help my friend get their battery bank charged from a basic gas generator.

It's a 48v battery bank 200ah, sealed lead acid batteries.

She does have solar but wants backup for extended cloudy days etc.

She already has a little gas generator. Dont know the specs.

To determine the charger size, do I take 120v from the generator and multiply it by the charger amps. Aka a 30 amp charger would charge 3600wh and the battery bank is 9600wh so charging would take 3 hours. Assuming the generator could handle that load?

Do my numbers make any since? And does anyone have a product recommendation for charging this battery bank off a generator. Something simple for intermittent use.
https://www.forklift-battery-charger.com
or buy a used single phase one on eBay
 
I bought a 48VDC 120 amp for emergency situation. It worked fine when i tested it out. I run it with a 9500 WATT harbor freight predator. I think the Honda Wannabe is the weak link here....
 

These are great standalone chargers. Variable output, so if you have concerns about load on the generator you can just turn the output down a little bit.
Nope, they are 100% crap
 
There a very very few 48v lifepo chargers

I guess for smaller generators you could get 48v 2000w MPP or growatt (MPP sister) and hook that up to the battery and just use the charger. I think the 48v ones all use the same charger with the same specs/paperwork when I was looking. I just didnt want to double my generator size and gas amount to be able to microwave dinner and/or also run the well pump for 2 minutes to fill my pressure tank while it's charging leading to a overloaded 3000w genny
 
I have the 12v 100A model of this in my RV and it works great. It use to be hooked up to 4 6v lead acid batteries. I have now switched over to a Chins 12.8v 300 AH. And it works just as well with it set at a voltage of 14.2v.
 
You might want to look into a V5 AutoGen 48v DC Generator with max charge of 70amps.
Can charge any 48v battery chemistry.
Set your Bulk and Absorbtion settings, auto start stop, remote monitor and control via AutoGen app.
Here is a link for your reference.
Here is a video of the V5 AutoGen
I like these guys but dang you all are proud of them.
I ended up Getting an Alphagen DCX charger.
 
I have the 12v 100A model of this in my RV and it works great. It use to be hooked up to 4 6v lead acid batteries. I have now switched over to a Chins 12.8v 300 AH. And it works just as well with it set at a voltage of 14.2v.
And i have to say their service is great , got my charger in Mexico , really a pleasure buying at this company .
 
You might want to look into a V5 AutoGen 48v DC Generator with max charge of 70amps.
Can charge any 48v battery chemistry.
Set your Bulk and Absorbtion settings, auto start stop, remote monitor and control via AutoGen app.
Here is a link for your reference.
Here is a video of the V5 AutoGen

What range of increased fuel efficiency in charging can be expected using such a DC generator, as opposed to DC to AC to DC charging?
 
I just ended up buying the Champion 8.5kw whole house propane backup generator. Along with the Magnum ME-AGS-N. I chose this over the Autogen because I can power my PowerMig 210 welder with it when needed.

Other then powering a welder and satisfying my insurance company I really don’t need a generator larger then my Champion 3100.
 
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