What's the biggest size single solar panel available?

[filippomasoni]

I'm planning my truck camper build and I'm trying to maximize the wattage whilst having the least amount of weight on the roof.

More panels mean more structure around it, more kg/W, so a single 800-900W panel would be ideal.

The biggest I found is the Canadian Solar 670W:

https://static.csisolar.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/23164147/CS-Datasheet-HiKu7_CS7N-MS_v1.7_EN.pdf

From here: https://www.csisolar.com/downloads/

I'm aiming toward 800W-1000W total and the best solutions I found at the moment:
2x LG400Q1C-A6 for a total 800W and 37kg (quoted 360 euro each from a distributor in Italy)
2x CS6R-430H-AG for a total 860W and 46kg (not sure about the price yet)

From what I found LG offers the most efficient panels and it's obviously very expensive.

I'm also limited by size as most panels above 450W won't fit sideways and so I can't fit 2 of them. My camper won't be wider than 1.9m

 

[McCarthy]

Do you live in the US? Those 670 watt panels are not for sale in the US due to high import tariffs / bans. I tried to get a 600 plus panel for 10 months with no luck. Talked to many US dealers.

The best I could find locally was a 465 watt panel that is 209 cm long and 104 cm wide.

You can build a rack and have them hang over on both sides a bit.

 

[filippomasoni]

Do you live in the US? Those 670 watt panels are not for sale in the US due to high import tariffs / bans. I tried to get a 600 plus panel for 10 months with no luck. Talked to many US dealers.

The best I could find locally was a 465 watt panel that is 209 cm long and 104 cm wide.

You can build a rack and have them hang over on both sides a bit.

I live in Italy, and looking for European distributors.
One 670W wouldn't be enough for me, it was just an example of the biggest I found.

The truck camper will be used off road, so I don't want any overhang on the roof that night catch on trees. Plus building a rack would increase the weight, so I might as well put a third panel at that point.

Just wondering if you guys know other options

 

[BruceVanLife]

Do you live in the US? Those 670 watt panels are not for sale in the US due to high import tariffs / bans. I tried to get a 600 plus panel for 10 months with no luck. Talked to many US dealers.

The best I could find locally was a 465 watt panel that is 209 cm long and 104 cm wide.

You can build a rack and have them hang over on both sides a bit.

435 Watt Sunpower Spr-e20-435-com Solar Panel - Shipping Not Included

wattsmonocrystallinesolar.com

PALLET OF USED SUNPOWER 435 WATT SOLAR PANELS...FREE SHIPPING ANYWHERE IN... | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for PALLET OF USED SUNPOWER 435 WATT SOLAR PANELS...FREE SHIPPING ANYWHERE IN... at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Love these 435 watt sunpowers

Used them.on my last 2 vehicles

 

[filippomasoni]

435 Watt Sunpower Spr-e20-435-com Solar Panel - Shipping Not Included

wattsmonocrystallinesolar.com

PALLET OF USED SUNPOWER 435 WATT SOLAR PANELS...FREE SHIPPING ANYWHERE IN... | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for PALLET OF USED SUNPOWER 435 WATT SOLAR PANELS...FREE SHIPPING ANYWHERE IN... at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Love these 435 watt sunpowers

Used them.on my last 2 vehicles

Thanks for the suggestion but those are too long for me. Most 400-450W panels I've seen have dimensions like those, longer than 80" or 2m, I can't put them sideways and can't put two lengthwise. If I'm going for the pair I need something shorter than 74" or 1.87m. That's why I was looking for a big single panel, but it has to be at least 800W and I don't think they exist at the moment.

 

[Steve_S]

BE CAUTIOUS !
The Wattage ratings can be a little skewed if you are not paying attention. There are MONOfacial & Bifacial and BiFacial won't be much use in a mobile setup, and by "much use" meaning that you really won't get the backside benefit. Monofacial panels are more suitable in your type of application. Now to get into High Watt panels your looking for split cell heterojunction panels and with Cell Configurations beyond the standard 60-72 cell layouts.

I very strongly urge you to read this article to get a better handle on some of this and to see maybe what is better for your application.

Most efficient solar panels 2024 — Clean Energy Reviews

Why is solar panel efficiency important? We explain the misconceptions around efficiency and list the most efficient panels from the leading manufacturers using the latest PV cell technology.

www.cleanenergyreviews.info

Also look here for Latest Info: https://www.cleanenergyreviews.info/blog/2017/9/11/best-solar-panels-top-modules-review

While NOT COMMON and hard to get in EU & NorthAmerica, the first 900-1000W panels have appeared but these are not intended for anything other than serious ground mounting (they are big)

Something to consider / realize. The Wattage Ratings are one "yardstick" of measurement but Efficiency crosses it. This is where the dance begins as everything is a compromise. You have X Square Metres you can cover with rack & panel so you want to get the most out of every square centimetre with a non-optimal setup (being flat on the roof of the vehicle and subject to shade, dirt etc). PSST HINT: You will want some way to get up and wash/rinse the panels off once installed, think on that when designing the layout.

• Half-cut solar cells are used in split-cell panels to increase efficiency and improve performance in partially shaded conditions.
• Shingled Cells, This unique design covers more of the panel surface area as it doesn’t require front side busbar connections which partially shade the cell, thus increasing the panel efficiency much like IBC cells.

Hope it helps, Good Luck

 

[filippomasoni]

BE CAUTIOUS !
The Wattage ratings can be a little skewed if you are not paying attention. There are MONOfacial & Bifacial and BiFacial won't be much use in a mobile setup, and by "much use" meaning that you really won't get the backside benefit. Monofacial panels are more suitable in your type of application. Now to get into High Watt panels your looking for split cell heterojunction panels and with Cell Configurations beyond the standard 60-72 cell layouts.

I very strongly urge you to read this article to get a better handle on some of this and to see maybe what is better for your application.

Most efficient solar panels 2024 — Clean Energy Reviews

Why is solar panel efficiency important? We explain the misconceptions around efficiency and list the most efficient panels from the leading manufacturers using the latest PV cell technology.

www.cleanenergyreviews.info

Also look here for Latest Info: https://www.cleanenergyreviews.info/blog/2017/9/11/best-solar-panels-top-modules-review

While NOT COMMON and hard to get in EU & NorthAmerica, the first 900-1000W panels have appeared but these are not intended for anything other than serious ground mounting (they are big)

Something to consider / realize. The Wattage Ratings are one "yardstick" of measurement but Efficiency crosses it. This is where the dance begins as everything is a compromise. You have X Square Metres you can cover with rack & panel so you want to get the most out of every square centimetre with a non-optimal setup (being flat on the roof of the vehicle and subject to shade, dirt etc). PSST HINT: You will want some way to get up and wash/rinse the panels off once installed, think on that when designing the layout.

• Half-cut solar cells are used in split-cell panels to increase efficiency and improve performance in partially shaded conditions.
• Shingled Cells, This unique design covers more of the panel surface area as it doesn’t require front side busbar connections which partially shade the cell, thus increasing the panel efficiency much like IBC cells.

Hope it helps, Good Luck

Thanks for the tips.
I never considered bifacial exactly for that reason.

I'll read those articles as soon as I have some time, seems interesting, thanks.

Yeah it's probably too early for 1000W commercial panels in sizes for vehicle mounting, I just wanted to home some more insights.

The dance of compromise lol, so true. At least in the planning fase I'm trying to find the best compromise, and in this case the most efficient panels seem to be the way to go. From my research LG is up there with 22+ % of efficiency. Not sure if they use half cut or shingles in their 60 cells.

Of course a way to go up to the roof and wash the panels is necessary, with 2 sideways panels I have enough space in the middle for a hatch, if I go with 3 panels than I won't even have space for a fan... Or maybe that could go under the panel?! But I would have to build an outside ladder, which I don't like. But the main goal is weight reduction, so 2 is the maximum I want to go. 40kg (~20lb) including wires and brackets is already a lot on a a roof in off road

 

[MattiFin]

132 cell half-cut panel would be largest you can fit under 1900mm but it looks like this size is not easily available in highest efficiency variety and the panels that are available are something like 380W max.
for example https://www.invertersupply.com/media/data/2741_110-1270 Data Sheet.pdf

I'd rather use 2 or 3 smaller panels than one huge +1000W panel. Easier to handle, less likely to break and even less likely for total failure of entire setup. And parallei connection or invidual MPPT for each panel so that shaded or broken panel doesn't kill your output totally.

 

[MattiFin]

Of course a way to go up to the roof and wash the panels is necessary, with 2 sideways panels I have enough space in the middle for a hatch, if I go with 3 panels than I won't even have space for a fan... Or maybe that could go under the panel?! But I would have to build an outside ladder, which I don't like. But the main goal is weight reduction, so 2 is the maximum I want to go. 40kg (~20lb) including wires and brackets is already a lot on a a roof in off road

You should leave some space under the panels to help a little bit with cooling and this can also double as venting space.
Added benefit is that if you have fan blowing air to under the panels they cool down even better and your panel efficiency is improved!

You'll need some clever solution for sealing or covering the hatch in case you are driving in heavy rain.

 

[corn18]

Thanks for the tips.
I never considered bifacial exactly for that reason.

I'll read those articles as soon as I have some time, seems interesting, thanks.

Yeah it's probably too early for 1000W commercial panels in sizes for vehicle mounting, I just wanted to home some more insights.

The dance of compromise lol, so true. At least in the planning fase I'm trying to find the best compromise, and in this case the most efficient panels seem to be the way to go. From my research LG is up there with 22+ % of efficiency. Not sure if they use half cut or shingles in their 60 cells.

Of course a way to go up to the roof and wash the panels is necessary, with 2 sideways panels I have enough space in the middle for a hatch, if I go with 3 panels than I won't even have space for a fan... Or maybe that could go under the panel?! But I would have to build an outside ladder, which I don't like. But the main goal is weight reduction, so 2 is the maximum I want to go. 40kg (~20lb) including wires and brackets is already a lot on a a roof in off road

This sounds like a really cool rig. Can you post a pic?

 

[filippomasoni]

This sounds like a really cool rig. Can you post a pic?

I wish, it's only in my head right now ? and some illustrator designs (I need to learn sketch up). As of right now I ordered the base vehicle a Ford Ranger chassis cab, no idea when it gets delivered, probably next year. Right now I'm doing all the planning, and only ordered 8x 280ah cells from Amy. When I get to building the electrical system I'll make a post about it, I'll definitely need some help from you guys.

 

[Supervstech]

Do you live in the US? Those 670 watt panels are not for sale in the US due to high import tariffs / bans. I tried to get a 600 plus panel for 10 months with no luck. Talked to many US dealers.

The best I could find locally was a 465 watt panel that is 209 cm long and 104 cm wide.

You can build a rack and have them hang over on both sides a bit.

My electrical supply warehouse has he 670’s in stock… they unloaded a truck full of them not long ago. I think I made a thread on them a while back…

 

[filippomasoni]

132 cell half-cut panel would be largest you can fit under 1900mm but it looks like this size is not easily available in highest efficiency variety and the panels that are available are something like 380W max.
for example https://www.invertersupply.com/media/data/2741_110-1270 Data Sheet.pdf

I'd rather use 2 or 3 smaller panels than one huge +1000W panel. Easier to handle, less likely to break and even less likely for total failure of entire setup. And parallei connection or invidual MPPT for each panel so that shaded or broken panel doesn't kill your output totally.

That size would be perfect for me! maximizing the width of the camper. I wish they had a 22% efficiency version which could be around 415W but in that case I'm better off with the 400W LG.

Redundancy is also nice bonus. In theory good panels should last a long time, but something external could always brake it, so yeah 2 panels is the way to go. I haven't thought of using an MPPT for each panel. It will add space and weight, but not really much and it's another layer of safety as the MPPT itself is much more prone to failure than a panel or a batter cell (if Grade A property balanced)

 

[filippomasoni]

You should leave some space under the panels to help a little bit with cooling and this can also double as venting space.
Added benefit is that if you have fan blowing air to under the panels they cool down even better and your panel efficiency is improved!

You'll need some clever solution for sealing or covering the hatch in case you are driving in heavy rain.

I was planning on gluing brackets to the roof with sikaflex and bolting the panels on those, which will leave a couple of cm under the panel for airflow, rigid panels have another 4cm of frame so they are not stacked to to roof. But a vent pulling air from the camper going into the panel definitely helps. No idea how to build something that's waterproof, I was thinking of going with one of the prebuilt, but I guess they won't fit under a panel. Something like a maxxair fan is too thick. Need to look into that, if you have any experience or idea please let me know.

 

[Supervstech]

I was planning on gluing brackets to the roof with sikaflex and bolting the panels on those, which will leave a couple of cm under the panel for airflow, rigid panels have another 4cm of frame so they are not stacked to to roof. But a vent pulling air from the camper going into the panel definitely helps. No idea how to build something that's waterproof, I was thinking of going with one of the prebuilt, but I guess they won't fit under a panel. Something like a maxxair fan is too thick. Need to look into that, if you have any experience or idea please let me know.

Silkaflex isn’t rated for mounting brackets… it is a construction adhesive and sealant… it is great to cover a bolted through bracket penetration… please mount brackets securely…

 

[MattiFin]

Silkaflex isn’t rated for mounting brackets… it is a construction adhesive and sealant… it is great to cover a bolted through bracket penetration… please mount brackets securely…

I doubt you find anything "rated" for 400W let alone 1000W panels and DIY construction for offroad/road vehicle roof

Sikaflex is fine if you have enough surface area for the bond but securing the joint with couple of extra bolts is lot easier than ensuring reliable bond between parts.

Gluing panels to roof doesn't sound nearly as bad as gluing engine mounts or suspension arm pickup points to chassis

 

[Steve_S]

You have a few issues to sort out first. Appreciate that having these on the roof of the vehicle and you're furtling down the highway @ 100Kmh and one get's "lifted", imagine the shmuck following you !
You'll want an Air Dam to deflect the air up & over the panels.
You need airspace with airflow between panel & surface.
That roof structure will have to be able to handle the stresses & pressures. As you are custom building it, I urge you to plan the framing so that it can support panel mounting and everything that goes with it. The typical "factory" made camper bodies, like RV Trailers are, well, shall I say somewhat "flimsy" structurally. 4-6cm thick panel as used on them (bonded foam and fiberglass) ...

You mentioned "Gluing" things to the body. 3M™ Automix® Panel Bonding Adhesive is used by GM, Ford and several other companies in production. You would be surprised at how many body panels are "glued on" now days. When properly done and once fully cured, the glue is actually stronger than the metal it's in, we've done tear tests (pulling panels apart) and the metal split before the glue gave up. BTW: I've been doing autobody & hot-rodding since my early teens, up to & including doing ISCA 100 Point Show cars & Restoration. I did this mostly as a "passion hobby" but also was licensed as a bodyman in shops.

Just a few thoughts, hope it helps.

 

[McCarthy]

Thanks for the tips.
I never considered bifacial exactly for that reason.

I'll read those articles as soon as I have some time, seems interesting, thanks.

Yeah it's probably too early for 1000W commercial panels in sizes for vehicle mounting, I just wanted to home some more insights.

The dance of compromise lol, so true. At least in the planning fase I'm trying to find the best compromise, and in this case the most efficient panels seem to be the way to go. From my research LG is up there with 22+ % of efficiency. Not sure if they use half cut or shingles in their 60 cells.

Of course a way to go up to the roof and wash the panels is necessary, with 2 sideways panels I have enough space in the middle for a hatch, if I go with 3 panels than I won't even have space for a fan... Or maybe that could go under the panel?! But I would have to build an outside ladder, which I don't like. But the main goal is weight reduction, so 2 is the maximum I want to go. 40kg (~20lb) including wires and brackets is already a lot on a a roof in off road

Screw the fans. If I ever equip an RV with solar I will remove all AC units, fans and antennas from the roof, and plaster the entire roof with solar. No compromise here.

I'd install a split AC with the condenser under the RV. Fans would pull and push air though side / wall vents.

 

[McCarthy]

I was planning on gluing brackets to the roof with sikaflex and bolting the panels on those...

Prime example why I was arguing against this stupid 3M tape so much in the other thread. People only read half of the info and now they are down to sealant for MOUNTING solar panels. I posted links and videos with panels that flew off. Many of those tapes are not rated for summer heat. Put your panel in the sun, in the summer, in sunlight, and try to touch it. Do the same with aluminum mounts. You will burn your fingers! Some of those 3M tapes lose 90% of their adhesion strengths in those temperatures.

I stick to everything I have said in the other thread: build a proper rack that is mounted with HARDWARE to the roof. Then install the solar panels with hardware to the rack.

Do it right the first time!

 

[McCarthy]

I doubt you find anything "rated" for 400W let alone 1000W panels and DIY construction for offroad/road vehicle roof

465 watt panel on my minivan.