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Where to buy 60280 cell bus bar, or safe to join end to end?

turtlebits

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Feb 6, 2020
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I just bought a few packs Battery Hookup's 60280 cells. (cylindrical 60mm x 280mm)

I cannot find bus bars for these, the seemingly only option is to make my own.

I was wondering if it is reasonable to join these end to end with a taller nut (since both ends are threaded). Or is that a bad idea? Tried googling around but could not find any results. Would be in a rigid box so there would be little/no chance of flex.

Thanks
 
You could buy 1" x 1/16" copper bar, but this involves cutting and drilling. Here is documentation from Overkill BMS to give you an idea as to how much current it can handle. This is the route I am taking for the SAB cells - 2P 16S configuration (32 cells in total).

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You could buy 1" x 1/16" copper bar, but this involves cutting and drilling. Here is documentation from Overkill BMS to give you an idea as to how much current it can handle. This is the route I am taking for the SAB cells - 2P 16S configuration (32 cells in total).

View attachment 63997
nice im planning on going 16s 2p as well. printing out these holders and messing with cura horizontal expansion settings..lol

is theres like a matrix of battery configurations? like a mockup of busbars between terminals?



batterytopcalip.JPG
 
I did the same thing, but I plan on making my own busbar. I'm making a 24v setup. 6P8S and I'm just using a strip of 3 inch wide 1/8th aluminum, making the measurements, using a cheap harbor freight drill press and skipping the plastic spacers. They seem like they work well, but aren't necessary especially if I'd be printing them myself... that's a lot of printing and the terminals seem more than strong enough to handle their weight in a setup without additional spacing or support.
 
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nice im planning on going 16s 2p as well. printing out these holders and messing with cura horizontal expansion settings..lol

is theres like a matrix of battery configurations? like a mockup of busbars between terminals?



View attachment 64073
Is that a plastic caliper or just black coated?

If it's plastic I want one.
 
I have a bunch of these cells but am doing something weird, so making my own busbars.

End to End has something to keep in mind... You probably want to make sure you bottom out with a spacer against the flat terminal, and don't put excess lateral torque on them. I did find some good rubber coated straps for mounting them to plywood if anyone is interested. Beyond that a U bend to aluminum 1/8th will give you a lot of conduction for the price.
 
Just as Christopia25 said.
A WEN table top drill press or the like can be had for 80 bucks at Harbor Freight . then purchase a 1/2 inch drill bit and you are home free to make all the bus bars you need in the future for you or your friends. i cut my bus bars with a metal blade zaw saw, so simple and fit like a glove.

the new generations of people self defeat themselves when they say "I can't do that". all you have to do is figure your length then mark the holes next to the cells when in place then drill and cut, it's that simple.
 
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A step drill will drill cleaner holes in thin metal and isn't so likely to grab and tear the bus bar out of your grip.

Definitely have some kind of vise, or at least hold them in ViceGrips when drilling, copper will grab and off you go...one of the few times where a dull drill bit works better than a sharp one.
 
It is much easier to drill the holes first as the bar is whole then cut into smaller. this way you have much more leverage if it should grab. copper is kinda soft so it was not a problem for me. also i have clamps if needed for the drill bed platform.
I prefabbed one as a template, drawn the rest out, drilled all holes then cut. if you cut first your screwed trying to hold them.
end results, nice 300 amp bus bars with small tap screw BMS balance leads in middle. not that i will need that capacity i just over did it a little.
 
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Like i said in another 60280 thread you an get 6 feet of 1/8" x 3/4 " for 39.98 at onlinemetals.com which is the cheapest around. i also used a punch at every hole before i drilled to make life a little easier. metal calipers if needed are at home Depot for 20 bucks as well as cheap tap and die sets for BMS leads.
of course this is for 1P only and will need wider and longer for 2P and higher ect.
 
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I don't think connecting end to end is a good idea but I think 1/4 NPT pipe couple is almost the right thread.

I made my own out of 1/4 x 1-1/4 aluminum.

Bomb Bat.jpgMilk Power.jpgSpares.jpg
 
End to end means contact resistance that wasn't there before.
Use high pressure & untarnished copper & large interface surface area to ensure low contact resistance.

A 12v car battery has to deliver 200A while cranking & you can see how much interface surface area they use with the battery posts.

With 48v & 200A you can stand somewhat higher contact resistance.
 
For those that built a battery out of the 60280 cells, how is the battery going?

Any concerns?
 
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