I am partial to APC and Tripp-Lite server racks. I've built a couple data centers in my career, and they are by far the best racks. Their price reflects it! I loaded up an APC rack at the end of each data center row with nothing but batteries and UPS. Had to have been 1200 lbs or more. No problem. The racks do specify their weight ratings, if they are any good.
These battery racks from the likes of EG4, SOK, etc. seem like they are pretty solid. And sometimes they look like they could just be OEM from APC or Tripp-Lite. But I have seen some really shoddy designs too, for example having casters attached to a leg that only has three walls, and the bottom where the caster attached has no support. (Actually, I think I might just be regurgitating what I saw in one of
@Will Prowse 's videos about the caster issue. ). But a good rack that has casters also has stabilizing feet so that the rack is only on the casters when you want to move it, and otherwise it sits on the feet. Kinda like my refrigerator. Caster are a terrible idea for anyone living in seismic territory.
Definitely look for something used if you want heavy duty, or you'll pay through the nose for it. The flimsy stuff is hardly worth buying used.
Something I keep chuckling about is that racks are actually based on a set of standard measurements. Most of the battery racks don't adhere to any of that.
A 6ft tall "typical server rack" is:
42 rack units high inside (a rack unit is 1 3/4" or three squares/holes)
24" wide on the exterior and 19" wide internally
36", 27" or 19" deep internally. (battery racks need to be 27" deep)
There are also 21U, 10U (and so forth) racks for smaller equipment. Most recording studio racks are 21U and 27" deep. Most network cabinet racks are 10U or less and 19" deep.
Never mount things in a rack with spaces between them. Rack-mounted equipment is designed to cool front to back (or opposite) and extra spaces between devices just wastes space in the rack and
degrades cooling performance by allowing heat to flow back to the front of the rack instead of exiting the back or top of the rack. All space in a rack that is not used should be covered to prevent heat blow-back.
OK, I must be getting old, because that was a lot longer than I was expecting and dove well into the "Sunny, you need to know all these things you didn't ask about" territory...
I added the wheels from an old GE Radio Cabinet. From box on the table to rack completed 45 minutes. I did watch the YouTube first so say an hour with tools. Need a long screw bit and one socket. There are places where there isn't enough roof for the socket to get on the bolt. I had an issue with the socket not fitting so a long 6" screw bit works. the 2nd one (without wheels) 20 minutes.
kidding, who else are you going to ask? no one and no where.
