Which Crimp Connectors For Overkill BMS?

[Stepandwolf]

You can get those terminals and crimpers to suit for 26awg wire.

Search Iwiss mini micro open barrel crimper to see what i use.

Solder, especially on very fine wires can cause a stress point that will crack with vibration. The glued heatshrink will look fine, but the wire can still go open circuit. That is why in automotive and aviation etc there are no soldered wires.

I haven't found ring terminals intended for 26ga. I have the crimper, I can't source the terminals. The ones in the AZ link above are said to be flimsy and there isn't a AWG spec. I did a lot of looking and still assume I will have to double or quadruple the wire. I have also seen people cut the strands off of a bigger wire and then crimp everything together. Why couldn't it be simple

 

[Stepandwolf]

BTW, for those who want a typical connector, I found these:

26-24 Ga. Nylon-Insulated Ring Terminals, 10 Stud - (Pack of 25)

Unfortunately, they are close to a buck apiece but might be the "correct" connector to use.

 

[Horsefly]

Skipping some of what has been posted, so I apologize. Seems you can do yourself a big favor and buy some heat shrink terminals like these or if you want a single size like these and then a crimper like this. In my experience these turn out much better than a separate terminal and heat shrink tubing.

 

[Stepandwolf]

Skipping some of what has been posted, so I apologize. Seems you can do yourself a big favor and buy some heat shrink terminals like these or if you want a single size like these and then a crimper like this. In my experience these turn out much better than a separate terminal and heat shrink tubing.

I have that exact same set of connectors, and even after doubling the wire, I could pull the wire right out. That is why I am getting the barrel connectors where you are crimping the lead and the insulation.

 

[Horsefly]

I have that exact same set of connectors, and even after doubling the wire, I could pull the wire right out. That is why I am getting the barrel connectors where you are crimping the lead and the insulation.

There's really no explanation for how that could happen except that you are using too small a wire for the connectors you chose. I think I've done quite a few of these on different sized wires, and never had them loose enough to pull out. I've done some experimental stuff of trying to put two wires into one connector, and after a couple of tries found the right size to hold tight. I think you just need to try terminals for smaller wire or use bigger wire. The particular terminals I pointed to seem to be very good quality.

 

[Stepandwolf]

There's really no explanation for how that could happen except that you are using too small a wire for the connectors you chose. I think I've done quite a few of these on different sized wires, and never had them loose enough to pull out. I've done some experimental stuff of trying to put two wires into one connector, and after a couple of tries found the right size to hold tight. I think you just need to try terminals for smaller wire or use bigger wire. The particular terminals I pointed to seem to be very good quality.

Exactly...this topic is in re: to connectors for 26ga wire and you suggested, and I tried the 22ga connectors in that kit and they didn't work. I already said that by "filling" the connector with some donor strands is an alternative if the connector is too big.

 

[Horsefly]

Exactly...this topic is in re: to connectors for 26ga wire and you suggested, and I tried the 22ga connectors in that kit and they didn't work. I already said that by "filling" the connector with some donor strands is an alternative if the connector is too big.

Ok. Sorry. Like I said, I sometimes try to jump in and not read all the details of a thread before I comment. Bad move this time. My apologies.

Of course a solution is to use a bigger wire, like maybe #22, which would be better anyway. But that is your choice.

 

[Horsefly]

Just went back and read page of of the thread. I recognized it, so I guess I did look at it before. You (@Stepandwolf ) said something about using ferrules on the wire and then putting the ferrules into the ring terminal crimp. I'm a big fan of ferrules, and although I hadn't thought of that it seems like it might provide a very good connection. If you have ferrules and a ferrule crimper, it is worth a try.

 

[Stepandwolf]

Of course a solution is to use a bigger wire, like maybe #22, which would be better anyway. But that is your choice.

Hiya....glad we got that figured out

The wires we have been talking about come from the factory attached to the connector that plugs into the BMS. So for every cell, there is an unterminated wire you need to connect to the battery post. So for some of us, that means a M6-1/4" ring connector but we are stuck with the skinny 26 AWG wire.

I did post a link for 24-26 AWG terminals I found but they were expensive which leads me back to the barrel connectors.

Thanks

 

[Horsefly]

Hiya....glad we got that figured out

The wires we have been talking about come from the factory attached to the connector that plugs into the BMS. So for every cell, there is an unterminated wire you need to connect to the battery post. So for some of us, that means a M6-1/4" ring connector but we are stuck with the skinny 26 AWG wire.

I did post a link for 24-26 AWG terminals I found but they were expensive which leads me back to the barrel connectors.

Thanks

I also have an Overkill Solar BMS, but I built my own harness with 20 AWG wire. That meant that the connectors we were both talking about worked fine.

I assume that you tried doubling the stripped wire? By that I mean stripping twice the length of insulation off, twisting the strands on the end so there is no fraying, and then bending the wire back on itself. That gives you a bigger wire to stick into the terminal for crimping. It's a pretty simple solution and I would assume you tried it, but I thought I would mention it. I've done this many times and it holds just fine.

 

[Stepandwolf]

I also have an Overkill Solar BMS, but I built my own harness with 20 AWG wire. That meant that the connectors we were both talking about worked fine.

I assume that you tried doubling the stripped wire? By that I mean stripping twice the length of insulation off, twisting the strands on the end so there is no fraying, and then bending the wire back on itself. That gives you a bigger wire to stick into the terminal for crimping. It's a pretty simple solution and I would assume you tried it, but I thought I would mention it. I've done this many times and it holds just fine.

I started with it doubled, already knowing that might not be enough, and it wasn't. 26 ga is .14mm, 22 is .34, 20 is .50. Since we are dealing with area, I suspect 3X .14 isn't the equivalent to .42.

 

[Horsefly]

Ok, so now I'm really confused, or maybe it has at least become clear why I was confused by @Stepandwolf and his issues.

I went back and looked at the original balance lead harness that I got from Overkill. It may be a little hard to see, but if you look closely you should see that it is made up of AWG 22 wires.

And to verify it is from Overkill, here's Steve's very nice sealing of the other end:



And... To bring us back to where we started! Here's the ring terminals we've been talking about on the ends of those wires:


So the problem seems to be that Steve / Overkill has shifted from using 22 AWG wire to 26 AWG wire. I have no idea why, unless it is to save costs.

 

[HighTechLab]

And to verify it is from Overkill, here's Steve's very nice sealing of the other end:

They come from the factory like that. Here's a 7s version that JBD messed up and sent me for my 8s units: View attachment 58220

By the way, the 7s leads I got from the JBD factory (Same as OKS) appear to be 24awg. It may have been them cheaping out, not Steve.

 

[Horsefly]

They come from the factory like that. Here's a 7s version that JBD messed up and sent me for my 8s units: View attachment 58220

Good to know Dexter. For the purposes of this thread, can you confirm one way or the other: Does JBD ship them with 22 AWG or 26 AWG balance harnesses?

EDIT: I see you added the answer after your original post. Thanks!

 

[EricBarbour]

Solder, especially on very fine wires can cause a stress point that will crack with vibration. The glued heatshrink will look fine, but the wire can still go open circuit. That is why in automotive and aviation etc there are no soldered wires.

This is a gross oversimplification of industry practice. Crimping connectors is faster and cheaper than soldering. Crimping must be done carefully and good practices followed; soldering is no different. Crimping CAN be more reliable for fine wire in high-vibration environments like aircraft or automotive, but only IF the properly sized terminal is used. For stationary equipment with no vibration or mechanical stress, crimping THEN soldering with a minimal amount of solder (don't let it wick inside the wire insulation) can give the most reliable connection--especially if the crimp terminal is larger than the actual wire diameter.

The point is to exclude oxygen and moisture while allowing flexing and thermal expansion. Always allow some slack in the wire. Very tightly harnessed wiring with no slack is a bad idea generally, except in very specialized applications.

 

[Stepandwolf]

Ok, so now I'm really confused, or maybe it has at least become clear why I was confused by @Stepandwolf and his issues.

To be clear, I have a Daly, not an Overkill/JBD. I was responding in that his Outlook and my Daly both needed a 26 ga connector. So although we didn't share brand of BMS, we share a common wire diameter.

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

Hiya....glad we got that figured out

The wires we have been talking about come from the factory attached to the connector that plugs into the BMS. So for every cell, there is an unterminated wire you need to connect to the battery post. So for some of us, that means a M6-1/4" ring connector but we are stuck with the skinny 26 AWG wire.

I did post a link for 24-26 AWG terminals I found but they were expensive which leads me back to the barrel connectors.

Thanks

Just thought I'd post this:

The wire i'm working with is a twisted pair from a cat6 cable.



The crimp connector (many will cringe) is one of those cheapy everready brand bought from walmart:



Strip off 3/4 to 1 inch of insulation and twist it together so the strands are held together tight:



Fold the stripped wire over onto itself once:



Then onto itself one more time:




slip the prepped wire into the terminal just enough to barely see the tip at the ring opening side of the barrel:



Use the proper crimping tool/die (these are insulated, not heatshrink terminals) and make sure the terminal is lined up properly in the crimper die:



Also make sure the insulation is flush with the edge of the die on the ring terminal side:



End up with a tight crimp that holds:

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

Just thought I'd post this:

The wire i'm working with is a twisted pair from a cat6 cable.

View attachment 59295

The crimp connector (many will cringe) is one of those cheapy everready brand bought from walmart:

View attachment 59296

Strip off 3/4 to 1 inch of insulation and twist it together so the strands are held together tight:

View attachment 59298

Fold the stripped wire over onto itself once:

View attachment 59299

Then onto itself one more time:


View attachment 59300

slip the prepped wire into the terminal just enough to barely see the tip at the ring opening side of the barrel:

View attachment 59301

Use the proper crimping tool/die (these are insulated, not heatshrink terminals) and make sure the terminal is lined up properly in the crimper die:

View attachment 59302

Also make sure the insulation is flush with the edge of the die on the ring terminal side:

View attachment 59304

End up with a tight crimp that holds:

View attachment 59303

Disclaimer, I don't make it a habit of using cheapy terminals from walmart nor am I advocating it. I had them and wanted to illustrate that you don't have to jump through hoops to get good crimps. You do have to have the right tools and know how to use them.

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

Die for insulated terminals on left, heat shrink terminals on right. The crimper in the back is for ferrules:

 

[Zwy]

This is something you recommend for M6 studs and 26 AWG?

Amazon.com: Keadic 260 Pieces M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 Open Barrel Wire Crimp Copper Terminal Connerctor Assortment Kit, Non-Insulated Ring Lugs Crimp Cable Connector for Crimp Solid Wires or Stranded Wires(Gold): Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Keadic 260 Pieces M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 Open Barrel Wire Crimp Copper Terminal Connerctor Assortment Kit, Non-Insulated Ring Lugs Crimp Cable Connector for Crimp Solid Wires or Stranded Wires(Gold): Car Electronics

www.amazon.com

View attachment 58996

I prefer nickel or tin plated if you can source them. I have 22-26 ga terminals for automotive use in 6 mm/0.25 inch and also in 5/16". I usually fold small wires over and twist the whole thing together, then crimp with the terminals that just barely fit.

I'm not certain the crimper below will work with those terminals above though. I own about 10 different crimpers, some work better than others.

And to crimp these:

Tnisesm SN-48B Crimping Tools, Ratcheting Wire Crimper AWG 26-16(0.5-1.5mm²) for Open Barrel Terminals - - Amazon.com

Tnisesm SN-48B Crimping Tools, Ratcheting Wire Crimper AWG 26-16(0.5-1.5mm²) for Open Barrel Terminals - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

View attachment 58997View attachment 58998

I have the second one, bought it as a kit that included the male/female terminals, needed to install some of the narrow female terminals on a relay for my metal cutting bandsaw. The flexible seals worked out great for that application. Crimper works very well.