Which Crimp Connectors For Overkill BMS?

HRTKD

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I acquired a couple different lengths of aluminum M6 bolts that I plan to use. I could very well end up with a whole pile of stripped bolts. But I will at least be able to say that I tried.
 

chrisski

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I acquired a couple different lengths of aluminum M6 bolts that I plan to use. I could very well end up with a whole pile of stripped bolts. But I will at least be able to say that I tried.
Now I'm wondering what the thread count is for the M6 studs on my Eve 280s.
 

Stepandwolf

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A serrated flange nut on top of the bus bar is workable. A serrated flange nut on top of a balance lead, I'm not so sure about. What's to keep the ring terminal of the balance lead from turning against the bus bar?

I tried the management route. Didn't like it. Rumor has it that the HR department had to add a checkbox item to the exit interview form that said, "Jim's a Bastard!"
That is why I am looking at the Nord-Lock lock nuts between the BMS lead and the nut on top.
 

Stepandwolf

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I use the serrated nut and then add a nylon lock nut on top of that. I like the larger area of the serrated nut and wanted the lock nut for vibration. That was with threaded holes and I ordered studs long enough.

With the welded studs on my latest cell purchase, I'll have to look at the stud length but I think they will work. I do fab my own busbars out of thicker copper and nickel plate them.
I recently learned about Nord-Locks and all of the info I have found on them shows them to be superior. They can also be reused whereas nylon lock nuts really deteriorate when being taken off and put back on again.

nord-lock vs nylon lock nut vibration test
 

Stepandwolf

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What type of nuts are you using?

The stud on the Eve 280s are M6, but not sure of the bolt material. I'm guessing aluminum, but an aluminum nut could be hard to find.
The bolt in the welded studs is stainless in most cases. I haven't heard of aluminum nuts, but I don't think they would have much strength. The conductivity is between the battery and the buss bar. The bolt or stud you use isn't the electrical path.
 

HighTechLab

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If you are using S/S studs, do yourself a favor and don't use a S/S nut. It can gall up / cold weld, and you will never be able to get it undone without ruining the battery. If you absolutely must use all S/S hardware, put a bit of antisieze on the stud.
 

Zwy

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If you are using S/S studs, do yourself a favor and don't use a S/S nut. It can gall up / cold weld, and you will never be able to get it undone without ruining the battery. If you absolutely must use all S/S hardware, put a bit of antisieze on the stud.
Loctite actually works better. But you run the risk of contamination of the electrical connection using either.
 

Stepandwolf

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If you are using S/S studs, do yourself a favor and don't use a S/S nut. It can gall up / cold weld, and you will never be able to get it undone without ruining the battery. If you absolutely must use all S/S hardware, put a bit of antisieze on the stud.
I am assuming it takes a certain amount of pressure before galling occurs. I haven't used high pressures, but I have put SS nuts on SS bolts, on and off, several times in my testing. Perhaps at 4 Newtons there isn't enough pressure to cause the oxide erosion to being the galling.
 

chrisski

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Someone suggested open end crimps for the 26 AWG wire. It did not work well. I made it work, but certainly does not look perfect, Here's a pic of the finished product:

1631060191952.png
After crimping, the Wire was just to small and would slip out so I needed to make it a little tighter.
1631060374056.jpeg
1631060275280.png
The 26 AWG stripper worked, but was a little different, and done by "feel"
1631060349057.png
I had a different wire I needed to put an open end crimp on that went from the shunt to the battery positive that crimped well. I guess what I found out, is the 16 gauge wire works well with a the open end terminal 6.3 rings. This is the open end terminal that fits a M6 stud on our batteries. Although I did not get a picture of the 16 AWG wire I crimped, a good open end crimp looks like this:
1631060599487.png
 
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Stepandwolf

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You were talking 26ga and how the terminals failed. I was lured like you were into trying those connectors in your picture, and even with the wire doubled, right connector, right crimper, the wires pulled right out. Next you are talking 16GA? Did you rewire your BMS connector to 16ga?
 

chrisski

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Next you are talking 16GA? Did you rewire your BMS connector to 16ga?
No, I did not rewire. I added a 16 gauge wire for a shunt to measure voltage.

For the 26 AWG wire, I took the tip of the crimping tool and crushed it tight enough so it would not slip out. Once was for the wire, the other for the insulation.
1631061338628.png

I'm still looking for a better solution. The pics I took were of a 25 ah battery. If I don't find a better one, I will crimp my overkill BMS for my 280 ah pack like above.
 

TAS CPA

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I had good luck with these from Crimp Supply.

26-24 Ga. Heat-Shrink Ring Terminals, 1/4" Stud​

11A28016

and this crimper via Amazon: Channellock 909 9.5-Inch Wire Crimping Tool
 

chrisski

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I had good luck with these from Crimp Supply.

26-24 Ga. Heat-Shrink Ring Terminals, 1/4" Stud​

11A28016

and this crimper via Amazon: Channellock 909 9.5-Inch Wire Crimping Tool
Thanks. I searched far and wide for those, hours probably, and did not find those.

I can't believe how expensive ring terminals are getting.
 

toms

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I’m sorry the crimps didn’t work for you. From your pictures you have used the wrong terminal and crimpers for the 26AWG wire.

It is critical to use the correct tool.

I use the Iwiss crimper for good results.
 

TAS CPA

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Thanks. I searched far and wide for those, hours probably, and did not find those.

I can't believe how expensive ring terminals are getting.
Yes, they are expensive. Also liked the heat shrink they used. Seemed to really seal up well even around the crimp. Just FYI, they also shipped really fast.
 
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