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Why is my 0.5 HP Pool Pump putting 1000 Watts of Load on my Inverter?

I dont know about that, mate. The pump is designed for 90GPM and with our head we reach 78GPM so the whole water gets turned over in less than 2 hours. If anything that pump is oversized?
The motor nameplate for 230V states 4.4A rating.
If your motor is on 230V, and drawing 5+ amps, it is overloaded, or has a fault.
 
WTF kind of wiring is that? It looks like you have black, white and green connected in he wirenut. I assumed 115V from that, but you are measuring 5 A… so, what voltage are you dealing with?

Second look, that is just two black wires spliced with tape.
The "wire nut" is actually convolex tubing used as conduit through concrete.

Splice on the left appears to be white and green.
If the circuit provided L1, L2, ground, I guess you could use ground as return to get 115V. Or I should say he (his installer) could, but I wouldn't.
 
Started a discussion in a pool forum as well with some interesting take aways already:

"The SFHP is the real HP, which is 0.98.
The 1/2 hp is meaningless.
The HP rating is not the power used but the power delivered to the water.
The typical power draw is about 1,000 watts per SFHP."

Have you confirmed the voltage with DMM?
Yes, but it's not a stable voltage. Ranging from 228 to 236V.
If your motor is on 230V, and drawing 5+ amps, it is overloaded, or has a fault.
A pump expert is coming over tomorrow, i think we're gonna do some dry runs to see the draw etc.
 
HP 1/2
SF 1.95
SFHP 0.95

I think you're correct.
But it ought to operate lower than the SFHP most of the time. Maybe as low as HP?
Could be it isn't suitably sized for the backpressure.
 
Your DMM reading confirmed that's not the case. But "unstable" isn't normal. It might change with load or PV backfeed, but most of the time should be stable.
I think SFHP you pointed out is the explanation of apparently excessive power draw.
The one thing you don't know is actual PF; you entered SF in the calculator for power. A meter that actually reads watts would give the correct answer.
I don't have one of those, but I do have a digital scope which can let me calculate watts and power factor less conveniently. What the scope is useful for is to understand waveform; it is interesting my loads aren't just a phase-shifted sine wave.
 
Your DMM reading confirmed that's not the case. But "unstable" isn't normal. It might change with load or PV backfeed, but most of the time should be stable.
Oh its unstable because our electricity grid sucks, we don't have any influence of that. Power is generated on the whole island by emergency diesel generators.

Something for our reference I've just found:

ENERGY STAR® Program Requirements - Product Specification for Pool Pumps

download.jpg
Line 38 or Page 2: https://www.energystar.gov/sites/default/files/specs/ENERGY_STAR_Pool_Pump_Spec_V1_Draft1.pdf
 
That doesn't entirely agree with the link I found, which said to avoid running at Service Factor load continuously.
Well, maybe doesn't disagree, but what you found said continuous operation at that load won't exceed insulation temperature rating. Different from saying it is advisable, would provide long life.

 
Second look, that is just two black wires spliced with tape.
The "wire nut" is actually convolex tubing used as conduit through concrete.

Splice on the left appears to be white and green.
If the circuit provided L1, L2, ground, I guess you could use ground as return to get 115V. Or I should say he (his installer) could, but I wouldn't.
It's safe to say the wiring isn't top notch.
I do hope under the tape there is a solder joint...
 
FYI, I've seen Pentair issue RMA's on products just outside the warranty period if you ask nicely.

Just politely tell them that you'll be trying a Jandy next time.
 
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