diy solar

diy solar

Why my system will not run my fridge?

Just seems that two minutes is way too quick to be in an overheat situation unless the draw was hard for it to cope with
Just seems that two minutes is way too quick to be in an overheat situation unless the draw was hard for it to cope with.
Well my frigid amps r 6.0 @ 115 volts = 690watts if you double it will be
1,380watts which my inverter should Handel but if it triples it will be
2,070 watts which will cause my inverter to shutdown that would be the compressor start up.
 
This laptop is on it's third fan. Miracle it still works after me completely tearing it apart, twice.
 
This laptop is on it's third fan. Miracle it still works after me completely tearing it apart, twice.
I replaced the keyboard on my 2010 macbook pro 3 times till i finally gave up on it a month ago. replacing a keybd on those things is ridiculous. i counted 82 tiny screws that I had to remove and then reinsert (they held the kbd in place). That didnt include opening it and removing the components to expose removal of the keybd, either.
 
This laptop is on it's third fan. Miracle it still works after me completely tearing it apart, twice.
The motherboard in mine is in it's second case and 3rd keyboard .... the hinges keep falling off .... So now I just keep it open ..... LOL

I really HATE starting over with a new computer.

OH, and the original hard drive has been replaced with an SSD ..... love the imaging software.
 
if it triples it will be
2,070 watts which will cause my inverter to shutdown
The specs on your inverter show that it has 3000W surge capacity. The fact that you can run the battery for a few minutes before the inverter shuts down at ~12.7 volts means that it's not a low voltage issue on the inverter, which specs show should do a low-voltage shut down at 10.5V, not 12.7V.

Back to the battery charging issue: Have you ever had the battery fully charged to 14.6V per the manufacturer? I would start there, charging it fully with a stand alone charger if you have one compatible with Lifepo4. 1628211998063.png
 
The motherboard in mine is in it's second case and 3rd keyboard .... the hinges keep falling off .... So now I just keep it open ..... LOL

I really HATE starting over with a new computer.

OH, and the original hard drive has been replaced with an SSD ..... love the imaging software.
lol, i'd upgraded the ram, replaced the original disk with a ssd, upgraded the wifi card (twice i think). that's about everything id done. it still runs, i just have to use a keyboard with it.
 
The specs on your inverter show that it has 3000W surge capacity. The fact that you can run the battery for a few minutes before the inverter shuts down at ~12.7 volts means that it's not a low voltage issue on the inverter, which specs show should do a low-voltage shut down at 10.5V, not 12.7V.

Back to the battery charging issue: Have you ever had the battery fully charged to 14.6V per the manufacturer? I would start there, charging it fully with a stand alone charger if you have one compatible with Lifepo4. View attachment 59010
I don’t have a stand alone charger u think I can just connect it to my midnight solar classic 150 charge controller to charge up the battery?
 
u think I can just connect it to my midnight solar classic 150 charge controller to charge up the battery?
Probably, but I'm not sure how long it would take with the panels you have. A stand alone charger is not very expensive and likely faster. Either way, I wouldn't do anything else until the battery is fullly charged to 14.6V in order to rule out the battery. Let us know after you get it fully charged to see how it's going.
 
I have a Xantrex Prowatt 2000 SW inverter and experienced the same thing when trying to run a mini fridge. The Xantrax was the problem for me. I assumed my individual unit was bad but now I think it may be a common failure. To test, I bought a crappy 1000W modified sine wave inverter at a rest stop, attached it to my battery and the mini fridge ran. I'm not sure the Xantrax is your problem, but it was definitely mine.

While trouble shooting my xantrax i read that the mounting position is also important. Heat rises, make sure the fans are not blowing that heat back down into the unit.
 
You have a problem that may not be fixable with your current setup.
The voltage drops below the inverters lower voltage cut off point trying to start the compressor. Fixes are charge your battery and or thicker/shorter cable. Both solutions may work.....until 5am in the morning, the fridge has been running all night, stops for a while and then goes to restart on the depleted battery! May wreck the fridge as the low voltage cutoff switches in and out and the fridge doesn't have a time delay.
 
Probably, but I'm not sure how long it would take with the panels you have. A stand alone charger is not very expensive and likely faster. Either way, I wouldn't do anything else until the battery is fullly charged to 14.6V in order to rule out the battery. Let us know after you get it fully charged to see how it's going.
I will let you know when I get connected to the charge controller
 
You have a problem that may not be fixable with your current setup.
The voltage drops below the inverters lower voltage cut off point trying to start the compressor. Fixes are charge your battery and or thicker/shorter cable. Both solutions may work.....until 5am in the morning, the fridge has been running all night, stops for a while and then goes to restart on the depleted battery! May wreck the fridge as the low voltage cutoff switches in and out and the fridge doesn't have a time delay.

The error code shows the inverter is kicking out on over temperature ... not under voltage.
 
I’ve apparently responded without seeing some posts. I’ll leave this here anyway:
Right away change your inverter feed cables to 2/0. I’m not a gambler but I think it’s a safe bet that will fix at least one component to the issue.
Your inverter is pretty smart, but it doesn’t know anything past what it sees from the weirdness that happens with sudden high loads on a small cable.

There is the one caveat- your battery bank isn’t big enough.
 
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The error code shows the inverter is kicking out on over temperature ... not under voltage.
Maybe, maybe not-
"yea matter of fact I think it said E0001 not sure but I know there was a code dame I should have written down"

E04 is overtemp, E01 is under voltage...possibly not for his model??
 
Bob what do I connect first my solar array to my charge controller or connect my charge controller to my battery then change the settings and then connect my Solor Ray?
 
Bob what do I connect first my solar array to my charge controller or connect my charge controller to my battery then change the settings and then connect my Solor Ray?
I'm here so I'll respond. connect it to batteries first, make your setting changes, then connect solar. Ideally, bring the solar in on a breaker, connect the battery to another breaker, then connect the mppt to both breakers.
 
I'm here so I'll respond. connect it to batteries first, make your setting changes, then connect solar. Ideally, bring the solar in on a breaker, connect the battery to another breaker, then connect the mppt to both breakers.
Ok THKS I have a midnight Solor classic 150 and I am connecting SOK 12v at 206 amp hours battery what setting do I change on the midnight solar?
 

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