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Why my system will not run my fridge?

I Will do but I think I need new connections on the side where it was connected to my old battery and also is there an app for my phone so I can post pics and reply to these forums?
I don't think there is an app .... but don't know for sure .... doesn't your phone have a web browser?
 
Yea I’m on my ph I’ll try posting a pic of refrigerator
 

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Prowatt 2000 SW inverter with SOK 12v @ 206amp ... will not run my Refrigerator ...
Your set up should work!
For my own curiosity I plugged in my 650w Maytag fridge to my twenty year old, $75, 1200w modi SW, Harbor freight inverter. Worked fine. Even ran my 400w microwave a few minutes after the fridge started. No problem.
I kind of like using that energy that normally is wasted. Does anyone know if the modi SW is harmful to the fridge motor?
PS Measured my cu wire. It's either 000 or 0000. Not including the insulation it measured .450" dia., >500 strands.
 
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Your set up should work!
For my own curiosity I plugged in my 650w Maytag fridge to my twenty year old, $75, 1200w modi SW, Harbor freight inverter. Worked fine. Even ran my 400w microwave a few minutes after the fridge started. No problem.
I kind of like using that energy that normally is wasted. Does anyone know if the modi SW is harmful to the fridge motor?
PS Measured my cu wire. It's either 000 or 0000. Not including the insulation it measured .450" dia., >500 strands.
What size batteries are you using
 
Your set up should work!
For my own curiosity I plugged in my 650w Maytag fridge to my twenty year old, $75, 1200w modi SW, Harbor freight inverter. Worked fine. Even ran my 400w microwave a few minutes after the fridge started. No problem.
I kind of like using that energy that normally is wasted. Does anyone know if the modi SW is harmful to the fridge motor?
PS Measured my cu wire. It's either 000 or 0000. Not including the insulation it measured .450" dia., >500 strands.
You didn't say what battery you are using. I still think the problem is the battery overload or draw in excess of 100A. I asked that a simple test to be done to see if the battery is shutting off.
 
You could put a multimeter, light bulb, or a variety of things across the battery terminals and see if the voltage drops to zero when the battery resets causing the inverter to reset. Seems the SOK has no indicator lights showing it's status.
I have some jumper cables and a multimeter I’ll hookup to see if the battery drops to zero.
 
You didn't say what battery you are using. I still think the problem is the battery overload or draw in excess of 100A. I asked that a simple test to be done to see if the battery is shutting off.
You didn't say what battery you are using. I still think the problem is the battery overload or draw in excess of 100A. I asked that a simple test to be done to see if the battery is shutting off.
Stepandwolf here the screen shot of the inverter error code
 

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I still think the problem is the battery overload or draw in excess of 100A. I asked that a simple test to be done to see if the battery is shutting off.
I had a simple test for you to do. Put a multimeter across the battery leads and when it shuts off, did the battery shut off? You can research your error codes.
 
I had a simple test for you to do. Put a multimeter across the battery leads and when it shuts off, did the battery shut off? You can research your error codes.
Battery never drop in power just the inverter drops in power and the alarm goes off and gave a error code E04 what do you think is wrong?
 
How long is it from plugging in until it errors out? IT seemed it was almost immediate, i.e. when it was cycling the compressor. Generally an overheating error wouldn't be seconds, more like minutes for the heat to build to trigger.

Didn't you also say the fridge worked with the same configuration but you went from FLA to lithium? If all you changed was the battery from when it worked until it didn't work it is the culprit. Did you ever get the lithium charged?
 
If it is able to run lower wattage devices fine but gives a E04 under higher draws I would suspect an internal failure of the inverter-specifically the output stage....
Did you try a stable higher wattage load as smoothJoey suggested?
 
Battery never drop in power just the inverter drops in power
This is a confusing thread and I may have missed something, but:
  • Did you fully charge your battery? What resting voltage (disconnected for an hour or so) was it when it was done charging?
  • What I've read says that you're using the battery at 12.9V which is only about 30% charge.
  • With the startup-surge of your refrigerator, combined with the low voltage disconnect of your inverter (12.7V), and the low battery voltage at the start (12.9V) it seems like it's the not fully charged battery that's the main problem.
  • The 8' cables from the battery to the inverter may be adding to this issue, by creating even more voltage drop.
 
This is a confusing thread and I may have missed something, but:
  • Did you fully charge your battery? What resting voltage (disconnected for an hour or so) was it when it was done charging?
  • What I've read says that you're using the battery at 12.9V which is only about 30% charge.
  • With the startup-surge of your refrigerator, combined with the low voltage disconnect of your inverter (12.7V), and the low battery voltage at the start (12.9V) it seems like it's the not fully charged battery that's the main problem.
  • The 8' cables from the battery to the inverter may be adding to this issue, by creating even more voltage drop.
What length of cable do you recommend?
 
As short as you can make them and still reach.

Have you fully charged the battery yet? If so, what resting voltage (disconnected for an hour or so) was it when it was done charging?
Haven’t been able to connect to the charge controller need connections
 
Someone, verify the error code meaning. With all the different suffixes and whatnot may have looked at the wrong manual.
 
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