Why would this have a current rating? No current should be passing through this

[ericfx1984]

So I've been looking for an easy way to distribute power and or splice cabling ... In the past what I would do if I needed a splice cabling and a pinch is put a nice crimp connector on either end connect the crimps to each other and put a bolt through it of course insulating it with either electrical tape or preferably shrink tube

But then this thing comes along.. and that actually looks way more sturdy and way more convenient but I was curious why there's an amp rating on this.. in theory amperage should never be passing through it I mean yes there will be live voltage on it but there should be no actual current flow through the device all the current should be passing through the terminals... In short this is merely a fastening device and should handle whatever current the terminals and wire are handling right?

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I was curious why there's an amp rating on this.. in theory amperage should never be passing through it

Because of a number of reasons.
-osha doesn’t approve anything around employees that doesn’t have documented ratings or capacities - and often: “listings.”
-liability reduction for the company if ‘you’ do something stupid
-ABYC and NEC specify ratings (and often approvals like UL) for certain applications
-arc-jump and/or other “failure” is related to the resistance of said faults through the base materials. It’s probably an arbitrary safe number.

But actually we really don’t “know” why they rate it at a certain amperage unless they list a specific UL approval or NEC standard etc.

this is merely a fastening device and should handle whatever current the terminals and wire are handling right?

that’s a reasonable conclusion but I don’t think I’d use it to feed a hungry 350A winch for example.

 

[HRTKD]

I'm using those same Fastronix junction blocks in my system. It was the easiest way to make a connection that might eventually need to be changed (different wire, different routing). The cables used at the junction are very different sizes. In my situation, it's used for 12 volts with no more than 50 amps.

 

[NPhil]

It's true that you don't want current flowing down from the bottom ring connector, up through the bolt, across the threads, into the nut, and into the top ring connector (it might weld the threads to the nut if it were too high), but I guess it could happen.

 

[HRTKD]

It's true that you don't want current flowing down from the bottom ring connector, up through the bolt, across the threads, into the nut, and into the top ring connector (it might weld the threads to the nut if it were too high), but I guess it could happen.

Agreed. When placing the lugs on the stud, orienting the cables/lugs 180° from each other would seem to me to be likely to ensure good contact between the lugs.

 

[DonPhillipe]

Noting on this, they have two major flaws, one is that they are plastic and if any sizable current overheats them the plastic can melt to where the wire mass will be floating around and of particular concern if used in a vehicle. Secondly if you disassemble (as you will see when it breaks) you find there is a piece of plastic about the size of 2 toothpicks that holds in the internal nut from rotating so basically if you are tightening this properly, the nut will break free of the thin plastic lock and it will spin. Caveat is, there seems no affordable alternative. Wish there was something like the Bussmann ANL fuse holder made of the fire resistant bakelite material and with properly anchored internal hex head. I suppose one could simply hacksaw Bussmann fuse holders in half but that would be rather expensive, which is relative since I have seen pairs of these plastic terminal blocks selling for the same price online.

 

[Supervstech]

I am rewiring a military trailer and they have them all over the place. All of them are blue sea branded, and many of them are handling 600A etc… BlueSea also has small bussbar banks etc in this trailer.

I’d just make sure all cabling connected to them is low temp ampacity, with low voltage drop. Keep everything running cool, and I doubt any issues will arise.

 

[DonPhillipe]

they have them all over the place

Never assume, however, that the person who created an installation before you is more learned than you are or that has any advantage because anyone can make mistakes. Bottom line is that plastic melts when it gets hot. That does not negate the frustration with the snapping internal small toothpick size lever that breaks when the bolt is tightened (which doesn't occurr on something well-made like the Bussmann fuse holder). Perhaps the person who built that military trailer went to Amazon like the rest of us and found only these for sale LOL. Otherwise this is true, if there is no sizable current flowing through them, then likely no need to worry.

*** Just spent 15 minutes looking for Bakelite insulated battery terminal posts and no one I can find offers an insulated version like the example plastic piece except being constructed in bakelite. Therefore for 150A + installations, I'd personally take something made of bakelite like the bussmann ANL fuse holder, saw it in half and drill an extra hole in each side to ensure it has 2 mount points. At $15USD for a bussmann, that would be $7.50 for each terminal and one that would have a higher temperature tollerance.

 

[time2roll]

When the bolt is made with an insulator the current rating can be dropped.

 

[WYtreasure]

But then this thing comes along.. and that actually looks way more sturdy and way more convenient but I was curious why there's an amp rating on this.. in theory amperage should never be passing through it I mean yes there will be live voltage on it but there should be no actual current flow through the device all the current should be passing through the terminals...
In short this is merely a fastening device and should handle whatever current the terminals and wire are handling right?

The short answer is NO.
Guess which connector is rated 30A, 250A and which is rated 1600A.

 

[Supervstech]

The short answer is NO.
Guess which connector is rated 30A, 250A and which is rated 1600A.
View attachment 89648View attachment 89649View attachment 89650

Yes, but all your examples are bussbars.
Op question is about a cable mount point for lugs to connect.

 

[WYtreasure]

Yes, but all your examples are bussbars.
Op question is about a cable mount point for lugs to connect.

DadBurnit, ya just had to call me on that dint ya. ?

The big question is: Did we learn anything from today's lesson??

 

[timselectric]

All electrical connections have to have a voltage and current rating, to be approved. In this situation, it is silly. But, it can't be listed by UL or any other testing facility. If it isn't presented with ratings, that can be confirmed.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

find there is a piece of plastic about the size of 2 toothpicks that holds in the internal nut from rotating so basically if you are tightening this properly, the nut will break free of the thin plastic lock and it will spin.

No good mechanic would tighten with a single wrench. That’s what the lower hex is doing there: two wrenches

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

DadBurnit, ya just had to call me on that dint ya. ?

If he didn't I would've. ?

 

[WYtreasure]

All electrical connections have to have a voltage and current rating, to be approved. In this situation, it is silly. But, it can't be listed by UL or any other testing facility. If it isn't presented with ratings, that can be confirmed.

Yep, you are correct, it's beyond silly, in my opinion. There are folks, just like I was a few months ago, who don't know the difference between "REAL" and "REAL-inese". Anything can be sold on Amoron claiming Anything. Those claims are ?
Folks smart enough to visit us are smart, lucky, or whatever you want to call it.

Am I wrong?

So I've been looking...

My apologies to the OP, ericfx1984. I'm not trying to be offensive.

 

[timselectric]

Yep, you are correct, it's beyond silly, in my opinion. There are folks, just like I was a few months ago, who don't know the difference between "REAL" and "REAL-inese". Anything can be sold on Amoron claiming Anything. Those claims are ?
Folks smart enough to visit us are smart, lucky, or whatever you want to call it.

Am I wrong?


My apologies to the OP, ericfx1984. I'm not trying to be offensive.

Most knowledge is gained from one of two ways.
Learning from your own mistakes.
Or Learning from others mistakes.

 

[DonPhillipe]

two wrenches

Check your clockwise pattern on the top if the bolt twists, this loosens the lower one if you are holding the lower nut and tightening the top. Still left hand, right hand, upside down, the thing is plastic, the nut inside easily twists loose and if you are used to "real" equipment like the products from Eaton Electric or any type of commercial equipment that you find in a regulation industrial or home breaker box, you quickly see what a laughable piece of royal junk this is.

Bottom line is, use it if you want or don't use it, but that won't change my description of it. I don't say that this is not needed in your project, just realize while it's the only game in town, it's still a piece of junk. What is needed is something made of bakelite heavy duty equipment like seen in electrical code-approved breaker boxes.

 

[Hedges]

Join your cables with a bolt and nut, if they have ring terminals.
Or one of these, if not.
Doesn't have an amperage rating. Just wire gauge. And it's UL listed.

https://images.tradeservice.com/9ETBOIYK8205G6UU/ATTACHMENTS/DIR100086/THOBETE67652_A2.pdf

 

[12VoltInstalls]

it's still a piece of junk.

if you are used to "real" equipment

Well I guess maybe you shouldn’t use it then?

I’ve use these (or similar) for years.
Jamb nuts are used in machine tools, shock absorbers, electrical connections for winches, car alternators, etc.

If the item pictured is like the last ones I purchased and are currently in service it is a bolt head captured in plastic with two nuts and washers and a lock washer. The use is to tighten the two nuts against each other with two or occasionally three ring-terminal lugs between, washers against the nuts. Mine are quite tight yet the stud itself will easily rotate a few degrees where the bolt head is captured in the plastic which is plastic because it is an insulator.

If these terminal studs or their multi-stud busbar relatives are inadequate for your installations the split bolt connectors mentioned will perform the same duty, require two wrenches to tighten, but split bolts neither have mounting capacity nor are they electrically insulating without multiple wraps of tape with perhaps large heat shrink over that for DC.

Both will work for their intended uses and if installed adequately and safely. Calling either one junk isn’t useful.