will a dead battery in series damage the others?

[SolarSamSurfer]

He just needs to buy a 48V battery. I sense he isn't interested in DIY.

I live in rural Mexico and things are very scarce here

 

[SolarSamSurfer]

FLA batteries like to stay charged. FLA batteries don't like to be discharged more than 50%. FLA batteries need to be recharged right away to prevent sulfate build-up, which is damaging to LA batteries.

If FLA have sulfated, they can be processed through an equalization cycle. This is controlled over-charging. It burns off the sulfate to hopefully revive, rejuvenate a sulfated battery.

I do not recommend doing this at 48V with 4 series-connected LA batteries of different ages.

Next step is learning how to run an equalization cycle and acquiring the tools to do it.

i have noticed in the afternoon when that batteries are fully charge and if my fridge turns off in the afternoon the growatt doesnt get to lower input from panals because batteries are full and theres a low load now and i see the voltage jumps back up and changes between 56-59 for a few hours everyday.
What do you think of this?
I am very new to Solar just starting the journey. I did install the system

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

Yes i realize this is a DIY forum thats why im here. I have been monitoring the batteries since the beginning and only had problems after 4 months and im now going through the journey of finding out the problem and solving it!

Ok. So charge, rest, check, test.

You're going to need to acquire a hydrometer and either a 4-stage 12v FLA charger or a cheapy bench top variable 10A 30V power supply. 5A would work, too, but 10 would be better.

If you can't acquire those, then find a mechanic that has the tools and knows what an equalization cycle is

or

Get some distilled water, pop the caps on the batteries, throw caution to the wind, turn on the equalization cycle, and yell "yeehaw giddyap!"

Before you do this, make sure the batteries are somewhere well-ventillated, and make sure wind wont carry their gasses into a dwelling. Equalization causes a lot of off-gassing with toxic, corrosive, explosive fumes.
Then, get familiar with the growatt's equalization settings and come up with a plan for how you want to approach this. I'm not a growatt person, so someone else would need to help you there.

As for your question about the voltage drop, I think 3V is a helluva lot.

 

[SolarSamSurfer]

Ok. So charge, rest, check, test.

You're going to need to acquire a hydrometer and either a 4-stage 12v FLA charger or a cheapy bench top variable 10A 30V power supply. 5A would work, too, but 10 would be better.

If you can't acquire those, then find a mechanic that has the tools and knows what an equalization cycle is

or

Get some distilled water, pop the caps on the batteries, throw caution to the wind, turn on the equalization cycle, and yell "yeehaw giddyap!"

Before you do this, make sure the batteries are somewhere well-ventillated, and make sure wind wont carry their gasses into a dwelling. Equalization causes a lot of off-gassing with toxic, corrosive, explosive fumes.
Then, get familiar with the growatt's equalization settings and come up with a plan for how you want to approach this. I'm not a growatt person, so someone else would need to help you there.

As for your question about the voltage drop, I think 3V is a helluva a lot.

Thanks very much hope you have a good evening! i was meaning to take it to a car mechanic because they will have a charger

 

[time2roll]

If a set of golf car batteries is available, probably 6 volt, I would be transitioning to the new format. Virtually all common 12v are start batteries or marine that are best cycled 20% max or the plates shed and short out due to no space at the bottom.

Golf Car batteries can generally be cycled 50% and have a large area at the bottom for junk to settle out.

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

Thanks very much hope you have a good evening! i was meaning to take it to a car mechanic because they will have a charger

YW, and keep in mind that if the battery is sulfated, just charging it isnt going to get you far.

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

If a set of golf car batteries is available, probably 6 volt, I would be transitioning to the new format. Virtually all common 12v are start batteries or marine that are best cycled 20% max or the plates shed and short out due to no space at the bottom.

Golf Car batteries can generally be cycled 50% and have a large area at the bottom for junk to settle out.

he said these were 205AH. I presume that means deep cycle. Cranking batteries are rated in cold cranking amps.

 

[time2roll]

he said these were 205AH. I presume that means deep cycle. Cranking batteries are rated in cold cranking amps.

Probably a 4D combo start/deep cycle.

 

[Rossman]

I have been monitoring the batteries since the beginning

I dont know how you can say this if you dont own a hydrometer?

You will continue to destroy batteries until you get one and use it to ensure the batteries are being properly charged.

 

[SolarSamSurfer]

I dont know how you can say this if you dont own a hydrometer?

You will continue to destroy batteries until you get one and use it to ensure the batteries are being properly charged.

As ive said in this post I'm just started my solar journey so i just found out i need one, is there any guides out there you could recommend on how to use one? i believe its as simple as putting it into the cell and taking the reading but just want to check theres something im not missing

 

[SolarSamSurfer]

he said these were 205AH. I presume that means deep cycle. Cranking batteries are rated in cold cranking amps.

Good afternoon sir, I wasnt able to get a charger today so i will have to buy one and it wont come until Friday. so until then i am not going to use the inverter so i dont do any more damage before ive learnt everything i need to know to maintain the batteries. I think what caused me to start having problems with the batteries is that in the afternoon around 2pm once the batteries are fully charged and my fridge turns off because its at the set temp, (load drops) the inverter doesnt get to take less from the panels and the voltage starts tripping from 52-60 on end until theres not enough sunlight. im in the process of speaking with the manufacture of the inverter to get how to fix this because even once ive learnt how to maintain the batteries im going to need to find a way to stop this from happening aswell. My plan at the moment is to test my batteries once i get a charger, buy and learn how to use a hydro meter and check my inverter is set up correctly.

Thank alot derpsydoodler and everyone else who has given me advice ive learnt so much in the last 24 hours on this forum

 

[Rossman]

As ive said in this post I'm just started my solar journey so i just found out i need one, is there any guides out there you could recommend on how to use one? i believe its as simple as putting it into the cell and taking the reading but just want to check theres something im not missing

I recommend a hydrovolt ( <- random shop link, not recommending this vendor over any other) because they are simple to use, accurate, and compensate for temperature. They are also pretty inexpensive. All you do is suck up some of the electrolyte/acid and it will tell you what the specific gravity of the acid is. This is *the only* accurate way to tell what the state of charge of a lead acid battery is. The manufacturer specs for the battery will tell you what their specific gravity should be at 100% state of charge, it will probably be around 1.265 or so - but it varies somewhat by manufacturer.

If the SG of your batteries are not getting up to what the manufacturer says they should - they are being uncharged, and you'd probably need a longer absorb time, or more solar capacity.

 

[WYtreasure]

I recommend a hydrovolt ( <- random shop link, not recommending this vendor over any other) because they are simple to use, accurate, and compensate for temperature. They are also pretty inexpensive. All you do is suck up some of the electrolyte/acid and it will tell you what the specific gravity of the acid is. This is *the only* accurate way to tell what the state of charge of a lead acid battery is. The manufacturer specs for the battery will tell you what their specific gravity should be at 100% state of charge, it will probably be around 1.265 or so - but it varies somewhat by manufacturer.

If the SG of your batteries are not getting up to what the manufacturer says they should - they are being uncharged, and you'd probably need a longer absorb time, or more solar capacity.

And I bet a number of folks have that product in their garage, even where the OP is located.
Wash your hands when your finished.

 

[SolarSamSurfer]

I recommend a hydrovolt ( <- random shop link, not recommending this vendor over any other) because they are simple to use, accurate, and compensate for temperature. They are also pretty inexpensive. All you do is suck up some of the electrolyte/acid and it will tell you what the specific gravity of the acid is. This is *the only* accurate way to tell what the state of charge of a lead acid battery is. The manufacturer specs for the battery will tell you what their specific gravity should be at 100% state of charge, it will probably be around 1.265 or so - but it varies somewhat by manufacturer.

If the SG of your batteries are not getting up to what the manufacturer says they should - they are being uncharged, and you'd probably need a longer absorb time, or more solar capacity.

Thanks for the recommendation, it costs a bit more in mexico because there is only one person selling it.
hydrometer would this work aswell?

 

[time2roll]

Wash your hands when your finished.

And wear old clothes. I really dislike pulling out the hydrometer.

 

[Rossman]

Thanks for the recommendation, it costs a bit more in mexico because there is only one person selling it.
hydrometer would this work aswell?

Looks like that is fine also

 

[SolarSamSurfer]

Looks like that is fine also

Ok its in the Basket! would this or this be better charger?

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

Ok its in the Basket! would this or this be better charger?

Got amazon in Mx?

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SS77N7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TEYJ8DBRRDYSR24Q666V

It'll come in handy. Many uses. You don't particularly need a "charger". You can charge at 48v in series once you're set. You need a bench power supply for doing maintenance and other small scale things.

Granted it will take more time to charge at only 10A. But at least it wont break your bank and you'll be able to put it to good use.

 

[SolarSamSurfer]

Got amazon in Mx?

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SS77N7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TEYJ8DBRRDYSR24Q666V

It'll come in handy. Many uses. You don't particularly need a "charger". You can charge at 48v in series once you're set. You need a bench power supply for doing maintenance and other small scale things.

Granted it will take more time to charge at only 10A. But at least it wont break your bank and you'll be able to put it to good use.

Amazon is not the best option as i have to wait extra time for everything to pass customs and i have to pay like 30% extra for the customs fees.
"You can charge at 48v in series once you're set" does this mean once ive tested my batteries i can just charge them together with the inverter and then equalise them after?
I thought you where telling me to charge the batteries one by one?
what is this thing that you linked meant to do?

Edit: I think i get it, i can set it to 12v or 14.4v? 10amp to charge the batteries and then i have it for the future to do many other things? could you explain to me what maintenance i could do other then charging?

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

Amazon is not the best option as i have to wait extra time for everything to pass customs and i have to pay like 30% extra for the customs fees.
"You can charge at 48v in series once you're set" does this mean once ive tested my batteries i can just charge them together with the inverter and then equalise them after?

No, I mean once you have the batteries equalized, alll topped up, and you're confident in a fully working bank, you're charging will be handled in series at 48v.

I thought you where telling me to charge the batteries one by one?
what is this thing that you linked meant to do?

I am. It is a bench top variable voltage cv/cc regulated power supply.

You can probably find one locally with a warranty.

Edit: I think i get it, i can set it to 12v or 14.4v? 10amp to charge the batteries and then i have it for the future to do many other things? could you explain to me what maintenance i could do other then charging?

You can set it to any voltage you want up to 30V. You can adjust the current it will output from 0 to 10 amps.

For 12v FLA, charging voltage is 14.4. For an equalization cycle, you would set voltage to anywhere between 15 and 16 volts.

You may not find uses for it (or you may) other than occasionally having to manage/maintain your batteries. Personally, I would find uses for it. I am a tinkerer. That said, it beats spending 300-400 on a charger you may only use occasionally. With that said, hold off on spending any money just yet.

Since you're using a hodge-podge mix-n-match battery bank, you're probably going to need a balancer/equalizer to make sure they're all getting charged and staying balanced. Maybe the better solution is to shop around for that. You may find one that will double as the charger you need.

Can anyone else here make suggestions on this?

In the mean time, do you have auto parts stores (similar to autozone or discount auto) there? Might be another option for getting your battery charged/tested and confirmed good/bad/otherwise.

Since you're not constantly pushig power into or cycling your other batteries now, start taking voltage readings a couple times a day. Keep track of it. Report it here if you want. It's pretty important to make sure they're in and stay in a healthy state.

I would hate to tell you to purchase another 12v battery to get you going and to have one as a spare, but man, it's like a juggling act at this point and I don't want to steer you wrong.