Winch power
- Thread starter noenegdod
- Start date
30 seconds likely won’t hurt anything being slightly over constant spec, since the peak spec is so high... but I agree, the winch should be on a contactor controlled by the BMS.
going with a dual line snatch block set will seriously drop the ampdraw also. Glad I got a gear turning in your process.
going with a dual line snatch block set will seriously drop the ampdraw also. Glad I got a gear turning in your process.
So something like this:
www.murcal.com
This one is good for 225 continuous and 300 intermittent
Appreciate it if anyone knows of something better.
So that I understand what is being recommended:
The way I thought it was being suggested initially by willo was to have the BMS connected to the battery terminals as well as a separate winch circuit with no protection what so ever and have that circuit isolated by a normally open contactor that was only energized when winching.
Bear Family: 48 Volt DC Contactor (114-4811-020)
www.murcal.com
Appreciate it if anyone knows of something better.
So that I understand what is being recommended:
- Is the contactor between the battery and everything (winch and inverter/charger)?
- Is the contactor between the battery and just the winch?
The way I thought it was being suggested initially by willo was to have the BMS connected to the battery terminals as well as a separate winch circuit with no protection what so ever and have that circuit isolated by a normally open contactor that was only energized when winching.
The BMS has a limit of current flow. It isn’t designed to limit flow, it is designed to balance charge across cells. Your battery should be sized able to handle the max draw of the winch, the contactor is sized to handle the current flow of the winch, and the BMS controls the contactor to protect the battery from over discharge.So something like this:
This one is good for 225 continuous and 300 intermittentBear Family: 48 Volt DC Contactor (114-4811-020)
Appreciate it if anyone knows of something better.
So that I understand what is being recommended:
Im having a hard time getting my head around the idea of a BMS controlling the contactor without power actually going through the BMS. I thought current had to go through the BMS so it could sense current and disconnect if it was excessive (This is where my broad strokes knowledge starts to fail).
- Is the contactor between the battery and everything (winch and inverter/charger)?
- Is the contactor between the battery and just the winch?
The way I thought it was being suggested initially by willo was to have the BMS connected to the battery terminals as well as a separate winch circuit with no protection what so ever and have that circuit isolated by a normally open contactor that was only energized when winching.
Ok, the truck has been drivable for almost 6 months now but time has been short. I have been working on the aluminum container for the rear that will hold all the camping gear and batteries etc.
Im in the process of buying a ton of gear but am having difficulty deciding on battery bank fusing. 4P4S 280 amp cells. Biggest load is the winches which both draw a little over 500 amps (only going to use one at a time
). As its a motor load I was planning to use an 800A fuse but can anyone make a recommendation as to what type of fuse I should be using?
All of the 800A fuses I have been able to find are $$$$$$$
I was thinking about using 2 of these in parallel which is still $$ but not horrible: https://shunts.com/products/fb2?variant=7007150768183 They are out of stock but Digikey has them.
But, if I could use these that would be 1/4 the price which is always better (if they are a good solution).
What do yall think?
Pictures are before and after.
Im in the process of buying a ton of gear but am having difficulty deciding on battery bank fusing. 4P4S 280 amp cells. Biggest load is the winches which both draw a little over 500 amps (only going to use one at a time
). As its a motor load I was planning to use an 800A fuse but can anyone make a recommendation as to what type of fuse I should be using?All of the 800A fuses I have been able to find are $$$$$$$
I was thinking about using 2 of these in parallel which is still $$ but not horrible: https://shunts.com/products/fb2?variant=7007150768183 They are out of stock but Digikey has them.
But, if I could use these that would be 1/4 the price which is always better (if they are a good solution).
What do yall think?
Pictures are before and after.
