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Wiring a NEMA 14-50P to my Growatt 6000T DVM-MPV

aurfalien

Solar Barney
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
78
Hello,
I had posted this on another thread but feel that perhaps it was not the right place to do it.

I've a NEMA 14-50R wired in my garage sub panel which I've used for connecting my Champion Generator 240V output in back feeding my home using a cable identical to the one pictured below. We have several power outages every year so I'm always busting out my old trusty Champion genie.

However I'm unsure how to wire this cable to my Growatts split phase output in doing the same thing. So any guidance is appreciated.

If the picture is hard to see, the cable colors are;
black = L1
red = L2
white = Neutral
green = Ground
* I'm going by NEC-US color codes and am assuming that black = L1 etc...

My understanding/guessing is that black(L1) would go to Growatt Hot 1, red(L2) would go to Growatt Hot 2, white would go to Growatt N and green would go to Growatt ground which is next to the AC input Hot 2?
 

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First of all there should be an inlet the feed power into a system. I assume there is a lockout or transfer switch if this is grid connected.

Same issue with the inverter. The listed colors connection is correct.

The connection as described is known as a "dead man's cord"
 
First of all there should be an inlet the feed power into a system. I assume there is a lockout or transfer switch if this is grid connected.
Yes of course, no fears of street power and genie power at the same time.

The listed colors connection is correct.
However am I correct in connecting;
Black -> Hot 1
Red -> Hot 2
White -> N
Green -> ground

I'd like to be absolutely certain.

I wonder why Growatt didn't also label there outputs to NEC color code standards like L1, L2 etc...

At any rate thank you for the reply.
 
Backfeeding your house without the proper connections is a disaster waiting to happen. If you're plugging the above wire into you growatt's output, that is a problem. It is called a suicide cord for a reason. Get the proper inlet boxes and cords, it not only saves time, it is far safer. You need a 50amp power inlet box with an SS2-50P "receptacle" and again If you're connecting it to you growatt's output, you need a different wire than above you need a wire SS2-50R "plug."
 
Backfeeding your house without the proper connections is a disaster waiting to happen. If you're plugging the above wire into you growatt's output, that is a problem. It is called a suicide cord for a reason. Get the proper inlet boxes and cords, it not only saves time, it is far safer. You need a 50amp power inlet box with an SS2-50P "receptacle" and again If you're connecting it to you growatt's output, you need a different wire than above you need a wire SS2-50R "plug."
Thank you for the concern and I do understand the cautionary tale in having live prongs exposed.

In getting the S22-50P/R respectively, how would I concern myself with ground of the Growatt? Those connector styles are 3 prong so I'm assuming L1, L2 and Neutral.
 
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Thank you for the concern and I do understand the cautionary tale in having live prongs exposed.

In getting the S22-50P/R respectively, how would I concern myself with ground of the Growatt? Those connector styles are 3 prong so I'm assuming L1, L2 and Neutral.
Actually looking at the wire schematic of the S22-50P, I see how it grounds. So all good. I'll go ahead and order the safer components and rewire my cables.

PS Still as to my concerns, is this correct;
Black -> Hot 1
Red -> Hot 2
White -> N
Green -> ground
 

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Actually looking at the wire schematic of the S22-50P, I see how it grounds. So all good. I'll go ahead and order the safer components and rewire my cables.

PS Still as to my concerns, is this correct;
Black -> Hot 1
Red -> Hot 2
White -> N
Green -> ground
Yes this is correct. Here is a a UL listed Power inlet box : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HSO1JW
and here is 50 amp cord with straight blade on one end and SS250R on the other: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WMG4KWZ/
You would cut off the straight blade end and wire it to your inverter
 

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A quick update, I ended up opting for the UL listed one that you suggested. I do like the alignment pin as well.
 

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A quick update, I ended up opting for the UL listed one that you suggested. I do like the alignment pin as well.
I'm glad you did opt for the UL one. I didn't want to push the issue, so as not to sound overbearing. But for receptacles and inlets I always go for UL listed one's or ones with known quality. For example for a 50amp receptacle, I bought a Hubbell version which has a reputation for making industrial grade stuff with the highest quality materials. Unfortunately too many cheap Chinese knockoffs flood the market, and their quality is not up to par and could burn your house down.
 
I'm glad you did opt for the UL one. I didn't want to push the issue, so as not to sound overbearing. But for receptacles and inlets I always go for UL listed one's or ones with known quality. For example for a 50amp receptacle, I bought a Hubbell version which has a reputation for making industrial grade stuff with the highest quality materials. Unfortunately too many cheap Chinese knockoffs flood the market, and their quality is not up to par and could burn your house down.
No problem and thank you for the input. I've been using suicide cords for years as I'm always careful to have it plugged in before starting up a genie, that is with all breakers off as well. But I was always thinking to myself, what if it gets unplugged somehow and then you've live exposed prongs.

There is a reason we have specs, best practices etc...

In fact I am redoing all 3 of my supply cords with the proper male-in to female-out connections. Get em while supplies last.
 
One of the problems with "suicide cords" is that you may be absent, temporarily or permanently, on the day the system needs to be activated. Your spouse, or neighbor, or brother-in-law will volunteer to help, and thinking you to be such a clever and careful guy, may commit a fatal mistake.
 
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