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Wiring Diagram help - Inverter not getting proper voltage

joelsoleski

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Aug 1, 2020
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hello, this thread is continuing this thread:https://diysolarforum.com/threads/renogy-2000watt-inverter-charger-fault-code-05-error.27519/page-2
I recently purchased a 2000watt Renogy inverter/charger. Long story short it was working at first, now its not. I went on to purchase the same inverter thinking the original one had broke: https://www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger-w-lcd-display/
I now have 2 and they both don't work with my setup. I have this 1200watt Giandel inverter I tried to use in the Renogy inverters place with the same falling results. Is there something wrong with my setup? I've checked all fuses, wires and came back with nothing. The DC side of my system still works fine. I have a feeling it may be something in my DC system causing the issue (maybe a neural thinks its ground or something). Any insight on how to diagnose this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
See attached photo
 

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@joelsoleski just in case you made an implementation error, please post pictures of the actual install.
That way we can reconcile one against the other.
 
Hey Joey, ya it is kinda. That one was more renogy product specific, So I posted another one with a detailed diagram of my setup. Some news; The overkill BMS started smoking, a lot. I disconnected the DC side of the diagram and the solar charge controller, I then hooked up the giandel 1200watt inverter strait to the bms, then bms to the battery on the negative battery terminal. Tried to power a 800watt heat gun and it was trying to work and it was heating up, but then I saw smoke coming from the BMS. I will send a video on how it was all hooked up in a bit.
 
What is that red wire attached to the negative terminal that the BMS was connected to? I personally always keep with the standard color codes (red positive, black negative). I see you using black for positive too. Much easier to make a wiring mistake if not using standard color codes.
 
It wasn’t connected to anything during the test, but when the system was running it was attached to the negative side of the blue sea fuse block for the DC system
 
hello, I recently purchased a 2000watt Renogy inverter/charger. Long story short it was working at first, now its not. I went on to purchase the same inverter thinking the original one had broke: https://www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger-w-lcd-display/
I now have 2 and they both don't work with my setup. I have this 1200watt Giandel inverter I tried to use in the Renogy inverters place with the same falling results. Is there something wrong with my setup? I've checked all fuses, wires and came back with nothing. The DC side of my system still works fine. I have a feeling it may be something in my DC system causing the issue (maybe a neural thinks its ground or something). Any insight on how to diagnose this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
See attached photo
I wish you stick to the old thread, I did ask in the old thread post #15 "Can you try the old inverter (the one in your picture in post #1) to see what happen?" but never see the reply, and now in this thread we found out you have the same problem using old inverter. It is hard to keep track troubleshooting the same system in two duplicated threads.
 
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Ya I’m real sorry, should’ve stuck with the old thread, it was urgent and I was eager to get answers. But I figured out it was the BMS that was the issue. Ran 60amps through it and it started smoking up (it’s made to be able to run up to 120amps).
 
Ok your DC wiring is a mess mate , sorry no offence , also looks undersized ? And how long is the wire run to the BMS ?
I'm taking it your just using extension cords and the camper isnt ac hardwired ?
 
lol no worries, it is messy, I have a cover that goes on the blue sea fuse block that indicates which wire is for what, so that helps. Sorry what do you think is undersized? It’s no more then 4 feet, and yes correct.
 
Ok l see in your diagram your running 2/0 wire , that should be ok , how did you crimp the lugs ?
 
I think I’ve found your problem Joel , you’ve wired the dc inverter input wrong ( going by your diagram ) you have the negative going to the positive, and positive wire going to the negative post on the inverter ....... plz tell me I’m wrong
 
I think I’ve found your problem Joel , you’ve wired the dc inverter input wrong ( going by your diagram ) you have the negative going to the positive, and positive wire going to the negative post on the inverter ....... plz tell me I’m wrong

Did you watch his video? Sort of hard to follow because of the color code issue of his cables, but it looked ok, unless he used that red wire that was connected to the BMS as positive when doing his test. Given that he said the inverter was working for at least a few seconds would indicate that is was probably connected correctly.
 
Yeah l was going by the diagram, really would be easier if the wiring was all correctly coloured , someone with more electrical knowledge might be able to solve his problem , I’ll butt out now lol

Yes l did watch it , but didn’t clearly see the inverter connections
 
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Ya in the video I was just trying to explain what happened when it started smoking. I can assure you that the electrical connections were all fine. I didn’t use that red wire to connect to the positive. I just don’t believe in buying two different colour wires, it’s more expensive and I quadruple check the set up before running anything anyways. But I can definitely see your concern because of it. I can run the test again clearly showing you the connections if you’d like, let me know. But the heatgun was turning on and blowing out hot air for the first couple seconds at least until the BMS started smoking.
 
It wasn’t connected to anything during the test, but when the system was running it was attached to the negative side of the blue sea fuse block for the DC system
Remove the fuse box and test again. Do you have a DVM to check voltages?
Its always best to simplify to the basics to troubleshoot. Does the inverter work when connected directly to the battery. Isolate everything to test.
 
Remove the fuse box and test again. Do you have a DVM to check voltages?
Its always best to simplify to the basics to troubleshoot. Does the inverter work when connected directly to the battery. Isolate everything to test.
Also, your charge controller is directly connected to your inverter. Remove that to see if the inverter works directly off the battery. Your SCC may be screwing with your inverter voltages.
 
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