Wiring Lynx Distributor to MultiPlus II

blutow

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Dec 20, 2020
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My lynx setup connects a MPII w/SCC, 2 Orions, and the DC load center. It's a bit of a compromise and you need to size wires and fusing carefully when doubling up on single fuses. The wire used to each orion was big enough to work with the 100a fuse that covers the combined circuit. The scc and 12v load is more of a compromise because you potentially have power from the SCC running to the DC load side unfused (since that is all downstream of the fuse), but the SCC has short circuit shutoff built in. Again, it's a compromise, but I didn't think it was worth adding a separate fuse. I went with 2 x 2/0 runs to the multi because it worked out perfect with spools of 2/0 that I bought for battery runs also. It would have been fine running 4/0, it's just that much harder to work with and more expensive compared to 2x 2/0. 2 x 2/0 also supports more amps at less v drop compared to single 4/0.

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corn18

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Nice install. I just finished the initial layout and wire setup. 4/0 wire to the MPII and it is a beast to work with, especially in freezing temps. But I got it laid out and what a clean setup.

I thought the manual said I needed a 4/0 chassis ground wire. It actually says I need a 4mm^2 which is a minimum 12 AWG. I am going to remove the 4/0 chassis ground and run something smaller.

IMG_5036.jpg

I still have some things to hook up and install there 400A class T fuse, but that will be easy.
 
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blutow

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Nice install. I just finished the initial layout and wire setup. 4/0 wire to the MPII and it is a beast to work with, especially in freezing temps. But I got it laid out and what a clean setup.

I thought the manual said I needed a 4/0 chassis ground wire. It actually says I need a 4mm^2 which is a minimum 12 AWG. I am going to remove the 4/0 chassis ground and run something smaller.

View attachment 72984

I still have some things to hook up and install there 400A class T fuse, but that will be easy.
I thought the Victron manual said ground should be as big as load, but it’s been a while since I installed mine. I just did a single 2/0 for ground, it would have been tough to manage 2 cables. I understand the logic of sizing ground the same in some worst case situations, but the primary role of ground is to provide another path (besides your body). A smaller cable will do that fine.
 

corn18

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I thought the Victron manual said ground should be as big as load, but it’s been a while since I installed mine. I just did a single 2/0 for ground, it would have been tough to manage 2 cables. I understand the logic of sizing ground the same in some worst case situations, but the primary role of ground is to provide another path (besides your body). A smaller cable will do that fine.
I thought I had read that, too. But I just re-read the manual and did a search of the online manual. This is all I could find in the Multiplus II 12/3000 manual:

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corn18

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Another thing I noticed is the little red wire on the chassis ground connection. I cannot get it off to put the chassis ground connector under it. So the only contact area for the chassis ground wire is the little ring on that little red wire. That does not seem right. I would prefer to put the chassis ground connector under that little red wire, but I can't do that. Thoughts?

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SolarPrep

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There is a whole series of tutorials on youtube by a great guy who shows you how to modify a Lynx for more fuses. Very well done. Adventrues in RVing, or something like that. You will find it if you google. Anorher one is by Jono.
 

corn18

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There is a whole series of tutorials on youtube by a great guy who shows you how to modify a Lynx for more fuses. Very well done. Adventrues in RVing, or something like that. You will find it if you google. Anorher one is by Jono.
I think he modifies a Lynx power in for adding fuses but I have never seen one where someone added more fuses to a Lynx distributor.
 

blutow

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I think he modifies a Lynx power in for adding fuses but I have never seen one where someone added more fuses to a Lynx distributor.
Correct, but he does have a good video on how to enable the led’s on the lynx distributor without using the lynx shunt. They go red if you blow a fuse. All you need is a $5 voltage converter, simple hack. Not terribly useful functionality, but I hated having all those wasted electronics not being used.
 

corn18

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Correct, but he does have a good video on how to enable the led’s on the lynx distributor without using the lynx shunt. They go red if you blow a fuse. All you need is a $5 voltage converter, simple hack. Not terribly useful functionality, but I hated having all those wasted electronics not being used.
That is cool! I will be doing that mod.
 

corn18

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Just finished installing the Lynx distributor. Still have to do the LED mod (waiting for the 5v converter to come in). Really like how it turned out. I thought $205 was expensive for a distribution bar, but I priced out 2x400A Blue Sea Systems bars with covers and they are $80 each. And I got rid of 3 breakers @ $32 each. So I really should compare $205 for the Lynx to $256 for 2 quality 400A bus bars + 3 quality circuit breakers. The Lynx comes out ahead. And looks great. And I have one slot left on the Lynx. Life is good.

DC wiring 290RL lynx.jpg
 
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