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Wiring my MPP or Growatt 24 volt all in one to RV's distribution panel

Captjwteal

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Joined
Dec 18, 2020
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Ok, so after much searching and video, youtube and even Will's book I'm still not sure how I should go about hooking an AIO 24v into my 30 amp RV distribution panel. I have two 100Ah Lifepo4 on order which I would make 24volt by wiring in series and am trying to cut costs and from my research a ton of wires, breakers & components by using the all in one. I would be tempted to use the 12volt MPP but for the limitation of expanding my system down the road. I've a 30' Toy Hauler (2021) with one of the new 12volt refrigerators, no slides, no power jack/stabilizers, etc, doing an energy audit I come up with 130Ah/day usage. All I'll really be running is that 12volt fridge, some led lights and bathroom fan, no microwave, no coffee maker, no A/C. Once I figure out how to properly set this up directly through my distribution panel I'll cypher the wire sizes etc. For the life of me I can't find a video or drawing (did find one for separate inverter, MPPT, etc drawing) so I'm throwing my little sketch up to see if you all can tell me if it's really this easy using the step down 24v-12volt converter. As you can see by my drawing I'm also wondering whether I leave the installed AC to DC charger/converter hooked up or disable? I have a battery disconnect switch factory installed to standard cheapo marine battery and don't need to rely on charging with the vehicle although on this site I've seen a convincing case that it would'nt hurt to leave the factory system installed, so wondering what or how to keep this or should I just disable it? Of course any input on fuses and Panels appreciated. Plan on (4) 200 watt panels but haven't studied how best to run those just yet, hard enough trying to wrap my head around the rest of it.
THANK YOU in advance for any help and input you may have!
PS: disregard the factory marked (wrongly) AC breaker for REFER
 

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Last edited:
I have pretty much the same question, only I have a 50amp coach. If you find the answer somewhere please keep me in mind and I will keep you in mind too
Must’ve put it in the wrong place? I’m trying to muddle through it best I can
 
Just joined hoping to find out the same thing... hoping my reply helps bump the question back up for a few helpful replies
 
Just joined hoping to find out the same thing... hoping my reply helps bump the question back up for a few helpful replies
please posts pictures of the ac side of your panel and the corresponding breaker map.
Also a picture of the dc side with map.
Bonus points for brightness, clarity and high contrast as my eyesight sucks.
 
As you can see by my drawing I'm also wondering whether I leave the installed AC to DC charger/converter hooked up or disable?
I can't see your drawing its too dark and low contrast.

Disable the converter as the growatt has a charger built in.
the ac side looks like this.
Code:
pedestal->inlet->surge_protector->growatt->master_breaker

I have a battery disconnect switch factory installed to standard cheapo marine battery and don't need to rely on charging with the vehicle although on this site I've seen a convincing case that it would'nt hurt to leave the factory system installed, so wondering what or how to keep this or should I just disable it? Of course any input on fuses and Panels appreciated. Plan on (4) 200 watt panels but haven't studied how best to run those just yet, hard enough trying to wrap my head around the rest of it.
THANK YOU in advance for any help and input you may have!
PS: disregard the factory marked (wrongly) AC breaker for REFER
Size the dc2dc converter based on the amp rating of the ac2dc converter that it will functionally replace.
If its a cheap ebay one you might want to go a bit bigger.
The dc side looks like this.

Code:
key {
    nnnAWG|NNN| = fused busbar position where nnn is the wire gauge and NNN is the fuse ampacity
    nnnAWG|UUU| = un-fused busbar position where nnn is the wire gauge
    <- = uni-directional current flow
    -> = uni-directional current flow
    <-> = bi-directional current flow
}
system {
    pos {
        nnnAWG|UUU|<->fuse<->batteries.pos
        nnnAWG|NNN|<->growatt.pos
        nnnAWG|NNN|->fuse->dc2dc_converter->dc_main_lug.pos
    }
    neg {
        nnnAWG|UUU|<->shunt<->batteries.neg
        nnnAWG|UUU|<->growatt.neg
        nnnAWG|UUU|<-dc2dc_converter<->dc_main_lug.neg
    }

}

fuses and wire sizes depend on the downstream amp rating of the dc2dc converter and the ac continous watt rating of the growatt.
 
I've a 30' Toy Hauler (2021) with one of the new 12volt refrigerators, no slides, no power jack/stabilizers, etc, doing an energy audit I come up with 130Ah/day usage.
The dc distribution panel has fuses that appear to be for a slide and the "one control" might be a leveller.
 
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