Yes, I read the manual. But...

[DXHum]

So my RENOGY solar kit came:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVHDW7Q?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I chose this because the charge controller is a 40A MPPT, and is the same controller that comes with the 4 panel kit (this has one). My thinking is that I can always go out and add more panels with the existing controller.

This is the battery and inverter that I will be using:




But after reading the manual, I have many questions:

1. "Ensure input voltage does not exceed 100 VDC". Input voltage being the voltage generated by the panel going in to the controller. Is this correct?
2. Doesn't the charge controller protect the battery from over-charging?
3. What is "Equalization"?
4. What is the correct battery type setting for this battery?
5. With the panel installed outdoors, all other hardware will be in doors. The cable run from the panel to the intended location of the other hardware is about 60 feet. Is there a limit to how long of a run I can have? Does the length of the run impact performance?
6. The manual discusses the "Four stages of charging". Are these something I select? Reading, I get the impression that the charge controller switches automatically between these stages and are not something the user sets. Is this correct?

Lets start with those questions first. I'm sure there will be more. LOL

 

[Samsonite801]

But after reading the manual, I have many questions:

1. "Ensure input voltage does not exceed 100 VDC". Input voltage being the voltage generated by the panel going in to the controller. Is this correct?

The manual is saying that this charge controller has a Max PV input voltage of 100v, there is a spec on your solar panel called Voc (Volts open-circuit), depending on how you wire your panels together, series or parallel can make the final Voc voltage value exceed 100v which will blow out the charge controller. You also need to calculate in a temperature coefficient adjustment to the final Voc value, as when the temperature drops very low, it drives the Voc value up higher.

1. Doesn't the charge controller protect the battery from over-charging?

The charge controller won't overcharge the battery if it is set to the correct battery type.

1. What is "Equalization"?

Equalization is a periodic maintenance battery charge cycle which exposes lead-based battery chemistries to a higher voltage than normal to help equalize their individual cell voltages closer to each other, and to help remove built-up sulfate on the cell plates.

1. What is the correct battery type setting for this battery?

AGM battery type it looks like you have.

1. With the panel installed outdoors, all other hardware will be in doors. The cable run from the panel to the intended location of the other hardware is about 60 feet. Is there a limit to how long of a run I can have? Does the length of the run impact performance?

Length and gauge of cable consideration should be run through a voltage drop calculator to help you determine the best cable to use for your 60ft run, to get minimal loss.

Example calculator:

Voltage Drop Calculator

This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.

www.calculator.net

1. The manual discusses the "Four stages of charging". Are these something I select? Reading, I get the impression that the charge controller switches automatically between these stages and are not something the user sets. Is this correct?

If you set the battery type to AGM, it should apply the best charge stage settings to maintain the charging of that battery type.

 

[DXHum]

The manual is saying that this charge controller has a Max PV input voltage of 100v, there is a spec on your solar panel called Voc (Volts open-circuit), depending on how you wire your panels together, series or parallel can make the final Voc voltage value exceed 100v which will blow out the charge controller. You also need to calculate in a temperature coefficient adjustment to the final Voc value, as when the temperature drops very low, it drives the Voc value up higher.

So this is more of a concern when wiring multiple panels together. Since I am only working with (1) 100 watt panel, I shouldn't concern myself with this?

Equalization is a periodic maintenance battery charge cycle which exposes lead-based battery chemistries to a higher voltage than normal to help equalize their individual cell voltages closer to each other, and to help remove built-up sulfate on the cell plates.

Is this true for all batteries, or only with lead-acid?

AGM battery type it looks like you have.

It is.

So I've tried out the voltage drop calculator. 4guage copper wire with PVC conduit. 12 VDC. But I am not sure what power factor is.
Also, the load current; how is that measured / calculated?



Thank you for your response. Your answers are helpful.

 

[Samsonite801]

So this is more of a concern when wiring multiple panels together. Since I am only working with (1) 100 watt panel, I shouldn't concern myself with this?

One smaller panel should be low enough, parallel panels won't drive up the voltage, series panels will add the panel voltages together, still doesn't hurt to read the spec sticker. If the Voc is too low though, it may not be high enough above battery voltage to allow the MPPT circuit to turn on and be able to charge the battery. I know for example, some manufacturers say the PV Voc has to be 5v higher than battery voltage to turn on. Some even mention a specific minimum MPPT startup voltage.

Is this true for all batteries, or only with lead-acid?

To be sure read the manual on the battery. Lead-acid based batteries generally last longer when equalized once a month or something. You definitely do NOT want to equalize any lithium batteries.

It is.

So I've tried out the voltage drop calculator. 4guage copper wire with PVC conduit. 12 VDC. But I am not sure what power factor is.

Just leave the power factor at default. You need to find Voc value to calculate on the PV run. This is also why it is better to raise the voltage more on the PV run side, so it will allow you to run a smaller gauge cable on the PV run. With smaller panels, you might be able to run 2 or even perhaps 3 panels in series to get the volts up higher (but still stay well below 100v max)...

Also, the load current; how is that measured / calculated?

You solar panel specs sticker (or datasheet for the panel), should specify a short-circuit max amperage value called Isc... Use that to figure max amps. Paralleling panels adds up all the Isc values, so if having 2 panels in parallel, a 10a Isc rating would be then 20a for the whole circuit...

Panels in series, the amps stays the same but volts adds together, like say if you had a panel with a 22v Voc, wired with 2 panels in series, it would make the Voc 44v on the PV run circuit.

Thank you for your response. Your answers are helpful.

Sure no prob at all. Thanks, just trying to help by passing on all what I learned before too hehe...

 

[Samsonite801]

BTW, here is a simple calculator I use to help figure out Voc and calculate in the temperature coefficient to know how your lowest temperature you see in your area will change the Voc value. You can also select how many panels to be in series with it... You need the info off your solar panel specs sticker or the datasheet for it...

Solar panel maximum voltage calculator - How to work out the max voltage

To get the maximum solar panel voltage you should expect from your solar panel, use our solar panel maximum voltage calculator.

gold-coast-solar-power-solutions.com.au

 

[DXHum]

Also, if I connect a multimeter to the panel while in the sunlight, at 100% efficiency, I should see 12 VDC and 100 watts?

 

[mikefitz]

I should see 12 VDC and 100 watts?

Connection direct to the panel with the panel disconnected from the controller you should see around 22 volts.
Measuring power with a multi meter is not practical.
Once your system is connected up the charge controller will display panel status.

What is the correct battery type setting for this battery?

the controller you have does not have a default setting for AGM, select 'sealed' battery, P19 in manual.

Mike

 

[Samsonite801]

Also, if I connect a multimeter to the panel while in the sunlight, at 100% efficiency, I should see 12 VDC and 100 watts?

Yeah, you really should refer to the Voc number on the panel specs or sticker to know what the volts open circuit should be, and that should line up with around the volts you would see when no load on the circuit.

 

[DXHum]

(I've been looking for a sticky on abbreviations used in this forum. If there is one, can someone post the link? Thank you.)

 

[Samsonite801]

(I've been looking for a sticky on abbreviations used in this forum. If there is one, can someone post the link? Thank you.)

Here's one, maybe it can help...

Commonly used Forum Acronyms & Abbreviations

Solar is befuddling enough! Why use acronyms? Well, we're lazy typists.... :LOL: xSyP - e.g., 2S2P, shorthand for how many cells in Series (S) and Parallel (P). A - Amperes or amps. A measure of current. See warning. AC - Air Conditioning, sometimes A/C. AC - Alternating Current, a waveform...

diysolarforum.com

Search for Voc and Isc on there, to learn more about them.

 

[DXHum]

So... I'm finally getting around to installing my Renogy 100 watt panel with 40A MPPT controller.

I am able to get into the programming mode and have set the battery voltage ro 12v (I'm using a Duralast Deep Cycle marine battery from Autozone).

But as I toggle through the battery types, they use abbreviations of which I am not sure and there isn't a key in the manual.

There are several battery types available, and one says "use".

Does this controller autodetect the battery type? Am I selecting the one that says "use"?

Can someone provide a key to the meaning of the icons/

Thank you.

 

[Mattb4]

List the choices. No the controller does not auto detect the battery type. It might detect the battery voltage (12v, 24, 48v) though.

Most often the "User" selection will allow you to put in your own voltage parameters versus the pre-programmed settings per battery type.

Not having the manual immediately available I can not provide Icon meanings.

 

[Rocketman]

I cannot help on that solar charge controller- other than to say they DO NOT auto detect the type of battery. (They can’t). You may need to contact the manufacturer.

One future thing…. If you decide to get another solar panel (or many more than one), Get the same panel that you currently have. You need to match the specs that use panels together. (Otherwise they don’t produce all the power they should).
If you cannot find the same panels, you may be getting another solar charge controller and wire and connecting each different kind of panel to its own solar controller.

Keep learning and asking questions- you will get there!

Good Luck!

 

[Samsonite801]

But as I toggle through the battery types, they use abbreviations of which I am not sure and there isn't a key in the manual.

There are several battery types available, and one says "use".

Does this controller autodetect the battery type? Am I selecting the one that says "use"?

Perhaps something like SLA or FLA, AGM, GEL, LFP (if available), and USE

Sealed Lead-Acid / Flooded Lead-Acid (basically almost same as far as charging stages), Absorbent Glass Mat, Gel battery, User adjustable parameters, etc...

Have to look at your Autozone deep cycle battery and confirm if it is just a SLA / FLA, or one of the other types and go from there...

 

[Vigo]

The battery in the first post clearly says AGM on it. So that one was easy. This Duralast Marine battery.. well:

'Marine Deep Cycle' batteries are usually flooded lead acid (FLA), although I have seen AGMs that said Marine on them.

A flooded cell is pretty obvious, usually. If you have caps you can pry off with a screwdriver to view the water level, 100% guaranteed it's a flooded/FLA. If you can move the battery around and hear/feel 'sloshing' liquid... FLA.

A flooded cell that is sealed up and doesn't have any sort of cap you can get into without damaging it but still 'sloshes', is a Valve Regulated Lead Acid or VRLA. They would be treated the same as FLA other than perhaps equalization settings.

AGMs do not have any 'sloshable' liquid in them, and don't have any sort of cap you can get into without damaging it. The term Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) is sometimes applied to AGMs, but could also be used on Gel batteries so is less specific.

But a Marine Deep Cycle is almost guaranteed to be an FLA or AGM, and it will be easy to tell which.

Everything CAME with a label.. as long as it's still readable. But flooded cells in particular are super easy to nail down just by being to feel/hear the moving liquid inside.

 

[Samsonite801]

The battery in the first post clearly says AGM on it. So that one was easy. This Duralast Marine battery..

Yeah, when I posted my last post above, I didn't realize it was this same thread where it said AGM, even with a picture hehe... (where I already posted a bunch of times)... Sometimes these threads get blurry to me as they age.

I scrolled up later and remembered the setting of the thread again.

 

[DXHum]

Perhaps something like SLA or FLA, AGM, GEL, LFP (if available), and USE

Sealed Lead-Acid / Flooded Lead-Acid (basically almost same as far as charging stages), Absorbent Glass Mat, Gel battery, User adjustable parameters, etc...

Have to look at your Autozone deep cycle battery and confirm if it is just a SLA / FLA, or one of the other types and go from there...

Yes, I confirmed that it is a Flooded Lead Acid.

I spoke with support. And I asked about the "USE" icon. According to them, the controller is able to autodetect. But they said I need to click on it to have the controller autodetect. I know they are Renogy's support staff, but something doesn't feel right about this.

Ultimately, I selected the icon that said "FLA", which I guessed is "Flooded Lead Acid".

And when I connected everything, it worked great!

Can anyone who uses this system tell me if there is a more detailed manual on the controller?

 

[DXHum]

The battery in the first post clearly says AGM on it. So that one was easy. This Duralast Marine battery.. well:

'Marine Deep Cycle' batteries are usually flooded lead acid (FLA), although I have seen AGMs that said Marine on them.

A flooded cell is pretty obvious, usually. If you have caps you can pry off with a screwdriver to view the water level, 100% guaranteed it's a flooded/FLA. If you can move the battery around and hear/feel 'sloshing' liquid... FLA.

A flooded cell that is sealed up and doesn't have any sort of cap you can get into without damaging it but still 'sloshes', is a Valve Regulated Lead Acid or VRLA. They would be treated the same as FLA other than perhaps equalization settings.

AGMs do not have any 'sloshable' liquid in them, and don't have any sort of cap you can get into without damaging it. The term Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) is sometimes applied to AGMs, but could also be used on Gel batteries so is less specific.

But a Marine Deep Cycle is almost guaranteed to be an FLA or AGM, and it will be easy to tell which.

Everything CAME with a label.. as long as it's still readable. But flooded cells in particular are super easy to nail down just by being to feel/hear the moving liquid inside.

Yes, I intended to use the AMG battery. But it is part of a backup system to support my salt water tanks. I decided not to touch the working system and just buy a Duralast.

 

[Samsonite801]

Yes, I confirmed that it is a Flooded Lead Acid.

I spoke with support. And I asked about the "USE" icon. According to them, the controller is able to autodetect. But they said I need to click on it to have the controller autodetect. I know they are Renogy's support staff, but something doesn't feel right about this.

Ultimately, I selected the icon that said "FLA", which I guessed is "Flooded Lead Acid".

And when I connected everything, it worked great!

Can anyone who uses this system tell me if there is a more detailed manual on the controller?

Ok that makes much more sense now, first battery in picture is an AGM, but you wound up with the Duralast later on. Thanks for clarifying...

 

[Tomthumb62]

BTW, here is a simple calculator I use to help figure out Voc and calculate in the temperature coefficient to know how your lowest temperature you see in your area will change the Voc value. You can also select how many panels to be in series with it... You need the info off your solar panel specs sticker or the datasheet for it...

Solar panel maximum voltage calculator - How to work out the max voltage

To get the maximum solar panel voltage you should expect from your solar panel, use our solar panel maximum voltage calculator.

gold-coast-solar-power-solutions.com.au

Wow that’s really enlightening. At 5F my 21v panels will produce over 2.5v more, 23.5v. During summer we get more like 18v, that’s really quite the swing. If you had many panels in series and were pushing the voltage limit of your charge controller in summer, then winter could easily push over the edge and fry the controller. If you live someplace with a real winter.