YES: RV Solar/ Li/ and AC running full time

[Generis]

Ah, that makes sense. I've already taken off my front vent but I'm keeping the rear one because it has a MaxxAir fan in it that I want to keep. It pulls in cool air from the windows. But if you have no vents, you get the full use of the roof.

The bracket sounds great. I'm on the hunt for how I'm going to mount my panels still.

To clarify, I do have a middle vent, and a rear vent, one has a power fan. I will keep both, and both will open. But instead of opening into a vent 'cover' they will open now into a space below a solar panel. Same rain guarding, same airflow. And that's why the new brackets will allow a 6 inch space below the panels.. Vent openings.

 

[aangel]

Thanks for the clarification. I see now. I suppose all I have to do is take off the rear vent cover. Very interesting. That would allow me to add the size of panels you are using, of course.

 

[aangel]

@Generis can I ask how long the tubes from the compressor to the evaporator unit are in your install? I have a 25ft option from the manufacturer and it may be tight.

And did you run them under then up actually inside the thin wall beside your door? Or does it run under then up along the inside interior wall and it's just not visible in the video?

 

[cinergi]

Small update - it's 32F outside, 65F inside, the cassette intake is 77 (problem with heat rises and having the heat source in the ceiling), and the output is 124F!!! It started off drawing 2000 watts and is at 1800 watts now (single zone - bedroom is off). VERY capable of heating the rig even when it's this cold outside. Very impressive. 12k IDU (30k ODU).

 

[K8MEJ]

Small update - it's 32F outside, 65F inside, the cassette intake is 77 (problem with heat rises and having the heat source in the ceiling), and the output is 124F!!! It started off drawing 2000 watts and is at 1800 watts now (single zone - bedroom is off). VERY capable of heating the rig even when it's this cold outside. Very impressive. 12k IDU (30k ODU).

I have one of these in my rig to move the mini-split air around. Aim it straight up and it will help even out the temperature.

 

[Generis]

@Generis can I ask how long the tubes from the compressor to the evaporator unit are in your install? I have a 25ft option from the manufacturer and it may be tight.

And did you run them under then up actually inside the thin wall beside your door? Or does it run under then up along the inside interior wall and it's just not visible in the video?

I used 25ft yes. And it was indeed tight.
The run is down from compressor, behind and under the compressor, and along inside of frame rail. Then over the rail at the rear axle, and just outside the rail until the door. Under the door, they run angled out and forward towards the front right corner of the cabin, where I put them UP through the floor corner and up the corner interior to the head unit. Correct. I used a grey piece of ABS pipe to cover it all, and it pretty well matches the grey in the interior colors elsewhere. Not very eye catching at all, and works great! Sealed the floor holes with spray foam.

 

[Generis]

Small update - it's 32F outside, 65F inside, the cassette intake is 77 (problem with heat rises and having the heat source in the ceiling), and the output is 124F!!! It started off drawing 2000 watts and is at 1800 watts now (single zone - bedroom is off). VERY capable of heating the rig even when it's this cold outside. Very impressive. 12k IDU (30k ODU).

THIS IS AWESOME!

 

[cinergi]

I have one of these in my rig to move the mini-split air around. Aim it straight up and it will help even out the temperature.

Cool (no pun intended). My ceiling fan on low does a pretty good job ... It's just the air immediately around the cassette is warm because of poor design and positioning (RV is challenging because it's so narrow).

 

[aangel]

I used 25ft yes. And it was indeed tight.
The run is down from compressor, behind and under the compressor, and along inside of frame rail. Then over the rail at the rear axle, and just outside the rail until the door. Under the door, they run angled out and forward towards the front right corner of the cabin, where I put them UP through the floor corner and up the corner interior to the head unit. Correct. I used a grey piece of ABS pipe to cover it all, and it pretty well matches the grey in the interior colors elsewhere. Not very eye catching at all, and works great! Sealed the floor holes with spray foam.

Hmmm...I have to mount my compressor high against the rear of the RV to leave space for the spare tire. I'm no longer sure 25ft will be enough.

Makes sense to run the tubes inside since the walls are so thin.

 

[Generis]

Hmmm...I have to mount my compressor high against the rear of the RV to leave space for the spare tire. I'm no longer sure 25ft will be enough.

Makes sense to run the tubes inside since the walls are so thin.

View attachment 66978

I'd be seriously considering where else that spare can go... if that was my back wall layout. I did move my spare, and it all worked for me to slide it over left more. The compressor went on the bumper then. But you have a water inlet there also.. Hmm. I'd be moving that spare to just about anywhere else....

 

[aangel]

I'd be seriously considering where else that spare can go... Hmm. I'd be moving that spare to just about anywhere else....

Oh, don't I know it. I've been wracking my brain and have come up with no place better. As it is I'm going to buy a longer tow bar because I'm towing a trailer that might mash the tire on tight left turns. I have no space underneath and I don't want it in the trailer.

This fellow made it work, though, so hope springs eternal:

 

[K8MEJ]

I decided to put the spare tire in the bed of my truck. It was an easy, but hardly ideal solution. I have an F-350 so payload isn't something I worry about. I'd like to mount it under the trailer, but I'm worried it would drag when going up a steep driveway transition. I haven't investigated putting it under the front of the camper, though.

 

[aangel]

I considered underneath but I'm already scraping the rear of my rig because of how far back it extends from the rear wheels. Terrible design. The departure angle is almost zero.

I don't want to add another problem there. Plus, I'm traveling on moderately rutted dirt roads as I boondock—I need all the clearance I can get.

 

[K8MEJ]

I considered underneath but I'm already scraping the rear of my rig because of how far back it extends from the rear wheels. Terrible design. The departure angle is almost zero.

I don't want to add another problem there. Plus, I'm traveling on moderately rutted dirt roads as I boondock—I need all the clearance I can get.

I agree. I will take a look and see if I could mount towards the front. Oh hell, I just thought of something. I could put it on the front, just behind the propane tanks where my batteries used to be. I don't know why I didn't think about that already. *head smack*

 

[aangel]

Hmmm. I took out the lead acid battery that was just beside my generator. Maybe I can put mine there.

Actually, once the solar system is in, I could take out the generator and put the tire there, probably, though I do like having an onboard generator. It's come in handy when I'm not in a place I can whip out the external generator (Walmart parking lot) or when I don't have the trailer with me that carries the external generator.

 

[K8MEJ]

Hmmm. I took out the lead acid battery that was just beside my generator. Maybe I can put mine there.

Actually, once the solar system is in, I could take out the generator and put the tire there, probably, though I do like having an onboard generator. It's come in handy when I'm not in a place I can whip out the external generator (Walmart parking lot) or when I don't have the trailer with me that carries the external generator.

Having a generator "just in case" is rather nice. It's not unlike electric car drivers and range anxiety. Once you learn how easy it is to adapt to everything but long-haul driving, it's really no bother. I think a lot of us with properly sized systems will find we don't need the generator "just in case" once we adapt a little. That said, I have a 2000 watt Honda that is small and fits easy in a storage compartment in my TT or in the back of my truck. I converted it to run off propane so I don't even need to bring gasoline along.

 

[K8MEJ]

Hmmm. I took out the lead acid battery that was just beside my generator. Maybe I can put mine there.

Actually, once the solar system is in, I could take out the generator and put the tire there, probably, though I do like having an onboard generator. It's come in handy when I'm not in a place I can whip out the external generator (Walmart parking lot) or when I don't have the trailer with me that carries the external generator.

If I recall, you have a class-c motorhome, right? Do you have enough alternator capacity to charge while you're driving? That would eliminate the need to run a generator for over-night at Walmart.

 

[cinergi]

25 last night. This time I left the LR zone on (BR off, door open). Maintained 65 degrees in the LR all night (zone ran full blast all night). Probably not doable with solar on an RV (I've already consumed 17kWh today and it's only 11am; I have shore power connect at 50% SoC and disconnect at 100% right now) but certainly nice to be able to heat w/out propane even in these temperatures.

 

[Generis]

Having a generator "just in case" is rather nice. It's not unlike electric car drivers and range anxiety. Once you learn how easy it is to adapt to everything but long-haul driving, it's really no bother. I think a lot of us with properly sized systems will find we don't need the generator "just in case" once we adapt a little. That said, I have a 2000 watt Honda that is small and fits easy in a storage compartment in my TT or in the back of my truck. I converted it to run off propane so I don't even need to bring gasoline along.

Well, I escaped all that on my rig.. it never came with a generator. So it's solar or nothing for me, and I don't have any sort of alternator charging. After 2 years all solar I've clearly found zero need for this added weight. Now, If I had a trailer and truck, likely I'd also have a Honda 2200 still....

 

[aangel]

If I recall, you have a class-c motorhome, right? Do you have enough alternator capacity to charge while you're driving? That would eliminate the need to run a generator for over-night at Walmart.

Yes, it's a class C and I've run the line from the alternator to the battery bay but haven't yet connected the DC-to-DC charger as I was about to rework everything for this new 48V system I'm designing. But you make a good point: with solar, alternator charging and a bigger battery, the need for an onboard generator is reduced to almost nothing and I would get that space back. I'll check out if a tire will fit where the generator is now.

@Generis for your brackets did you find anything off-the-shelf that comes close to raising the panels significantly off the top of the roof? I understand that you are having some custom fabricated but I was wondering if you came across something "good enough."

Will's page shows the mounts for close to the roof but I like your idea of covering the whole roof with panels. I just saw a rig yesterday that did exactly that. Not particularly aerodynamic and more than a bit ugly but I don't travel faster than 60mph anyway with my trailer.