I am trying to figure out the power requirements for a standalone “outhouse” on a remote property. Yeah, an outhouse. When I visit my property it would be nice to have a “real” shower, washing machine etc. I am having trouble understanding how to calculate the washing machine load to size a minimal system. Sure LED lighting is minimal, rainwater collection, a 12v RV pump for pressure, a 110v instantaneous LP hot water heater from Home Depot, none of these carry a big load but how do I account for laundry? 6-8 loads a week maybe? From the book, do I just grab a 200 or 400 watt system and hope for the best? Before converting my RV into solar I wanted to start on a smaller project but I am apparently thick in the head. The outhouse would become a year round operation and allow me to make the big move from the city to the country. Any help is appreciated.
Yet another newby question
- Thread starter Denny
- Start date
Thanks but then what? ;-). I did run a kill-a-watt meter but my notes mostly unreadable so I’ll need to run it again. Is there a key KAW meter metric I should focus on or just record them all? What is max power for a typical laundry washer anyway?
I’ll read this book yet again but since I’m thick headed I’ll likely be back hoping someone can make it easy even for me to understand how to put it altogether. I know for most of you folks this is probably easy as fools play but not to some so why I’m asking here. Thanks in advance for any help to avoid the common mistake of starting out on the wrong foot, i.e. gaining an education by buying all the wrong stuff first. ;-)
Standard washing machine
Tankless water heater info (for any this may help)
Ecotemp FV112 Aeries 4-GPM Indoor LP water heater
$312 w/ tax
I’ll read this book yet again but since I’m thick headed I’ll likely be back hoping someone can make it easy even for me to understand how to put it altogether. I know for most of you folks this is probably easy as fools play but not to some so why I’m asking here. Thanks in advance for any help to avoid the common mistake of starting out on the wrong foot, i.e. gaining an education by buying all the wrong stuff first. ;-)
Standard washing machine
Tankless water heater info (for any this may help)
Ecotemp FV112 Aeries 4-GPM Indoor LP water heater
$312 w/ tax
gnubie
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2019
- Messages
- 3,847
You want to note the overall kWh use, the peak watt use and the power factor as they all contribute to your battery, inverter and solar requirements.
Is your washing machine a direct mains/grid AC motor type or is it where most models are these days where the motors are run via chopped DC. Conceptually the same as an inverter airconditioner. If standard AC motors you have to size the inverter and battery to cope with their surge draw, if the other you don't have to worry about surge draw anywhere near as much. Standard AC motors will hit the system time and time again with start up surge draw as the machine starts the drum turning again after an idle interval, as it sloshes the load back and forth or spins the agitator. An inverter style machine bring will the motor up to desired speed more gently and will usually run slower as well.
In both types you also need to consider the short term higher current draw of the motor, 5 10 seconds etc, as it comes up to speed. Sometimes you hear this being talked about as surge, it's a different thing.
You can get either style in top and front load machines.
Is your washing machine a direct mains/grid AC motor type or is it where most models are these days where the motors are run via chopped DC. Conceptually the same as an inverter airconditioner. If standard AC motors you have to size the inverter and battery to cope with their surge draw, if the other you don't have to worry about surge draw anywhere near as much. Standard AC motors will hit the system time and time again with start up surge draw as the machine starts the drum turning again after an idle interval, as it sloshes the load back and forth or spins the agitator. An inverter style machine bring will the motor up to desired speed more gently and will usually run slower as well.
In both types you also need to consider the short term higher current draw of the motor, 5 10 seconds etc, as it comes up to speed. Sometimes you hear this being talked about as surge, it's a different thing.
You can get either style in top and front load machines.
D
Deleted member 9967
Guest
If you actually have a "killawatt" then you are ahead of the game already.
So use it to measure how much energy it takes to wash a load of laundry.
Then write it down in notepad on your computer.
"Laundry takes xxxx watts for one load".
Now do that for most everything else that does not have a manual that states its wattage and then write them down in that same notepad and add them up.
Then come back and tells us the total.
Then someone here with more smarts than me will tell you what you need ok?
So use it to measure how much energy it takes to wash a load of laundry.
Then write it down in notepad on your computer.
"Laundry takes xxxx watts for one load".
Now do that for most everything else that does not have a manual that states its wattage and then write them down in that same notepad and add them up.
Then come back and tells us the total.
Then someone here with more smarts than me will tell you what you need ok?
Yes, I do have a KAW meter and will retest my washer this weekend, For the record I am using a standard (old School) washing machine not one of those fancy new ones so I will need to design in for the extra start load.If you actually have a "killawatt" then you are ahead of the game already.
So use it to measure how much energy it takes to wash a load of laundry.
Then write it down in notepad on your computer.
"Laundry takes xxxx watts for one load".
Now do that for most everything else that does not have a manual that states its wattage and then write them down in that same notepad and add them up.
Then come back and tells us the total.
Then someone here with more smarts than me will tell you what you need ok?
gnubie
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2019
- Messages
- 3,847
Check the label on the machine. You may see a LRA rating for the motor but if you only see running amps multiply it by 6-ish and you have a good idea of the start current with a load in the machine. The inverter doesn't necessarily have to produce that sort of current but it will have to be capable of more than the running current and be able to do it for a number of seconds too otherwise the motor will stall / inverter shutdown / inverter goes bang / any combination of.
Remember that with a washing machine this start surge will happen many many times during a typical wash cycle as the unit: spins the drum / agitator, Stops for a bit, Reverses direction. A cheap inverter may put up with that a few times but what about the other 150 times during the cycle?
Remember that with a washing machine this start surge will happen many many times during a typical wash cycle as the unit: spins the drum / agitator, Stops for a bit, Reverses direction. A cheap inverter may put up with that a few times but what about the other 150 times during the cycle?
