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zzz

Let's see some numbers please
To come to a conclusion, yes we need numbers but scale is an important issue when dealing with efficiency or savings. A 10% saving on fuel for our most used vehicle is about €220 per year but with so many variables & no calibrated test equipment its difficult to know what’s happening. You could of course calculate everything but then factors like temperature, wind & other driving conditions are not in the equation.
 
There are a lot of tier 2 DC to Dc 40 amp chargers on Ebay under $150.
 
I am using the inefficient (just a mind play) alternator charging system in my van.

The prices of dc-dc chargers are way overpriced and generally not good as a regular 110V charger. So, I use a pure sinewave inverter from my van battery to charge my LifePO4 through a regular LiFePO4 charger -35A vevor charger and also have a P20 charger.

Advantages:
1) Setup is simple. Van starts, switch on inverter, charger starts and starts charging (P20) where as with Vevor i need to just press the start charging button every time

2) Cost efficient - You already have inverter, 110V LiFePO4 charger. All you need is buy some good gauge wire (4 gauge) from battery to alternator and may be some Anderson plugs (175A)

3)Converting 12V to 110V back to 12V seem inefficient but actually the van is spending the same gas and the alternator is outputting the same (almost) amps in both these cases and so dc-dc charging is not really efficiently saving you anything.

The difference in alternator working harder is negligible (Prove me wrong - depends on your car but for vans with 90W or more output the difference doesn't matter)

4) LiFePO4 charging is efficient since using a regular LiFePO4 charger which senses what amperage to charge and reduces when getting fully charged.

The cost difference that makes up for a dc-dc charger is high and you should consider it if you want a budget friendly setup

I use only one inverter for charging and same for using the battery but in my case if I am driving I don't need to use battery power but I have a 2nd inverter just in case.

Since using the same inverter I have Anderson 175A plugs for easy disconnect or connect from alternator to battery through the inverter.

It is a common method. I prefer to use a second inverter to pull power from the van system, because 24 volt is such a handy voltage for van use.

The nominal losses do not matter when you are driving.
 
Links to these amazing inexpensive devices ?
Unless I'm entirely mistaken, your new favorite brand, of course!
$102 shipped. edit: combined 40A...
 
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Unless I'm entirely mistaken, your new favorite brand, of course!
$102 shipped.
That does look good. I was tempted to do the 12V inverter to charger idea because of what I already had. Lets see if anybody has tried that unit or now.

I love my EG4 3K units. But the LifePower4 V1 still leaves a bad memories. E-W is definably expanding their product line and has offered better support. Thank you for the E-W product referral (y)
 
I have done the AC charger off 12v inverter into lifepo4 bank while driving thing. I have no real issue with it. To me it is far more user controllable both in terms of selection of what to buy, and modes of operation, than your typical lower-end DC-DC. Having said that, i still bought a cheap DC-DC and do not plan to AC charge off inverter in the future so that i can eliminate high current 'bank switching' devices into my single inverter. It's definitely just down to user preference.
 
I am using the inefficient (just a mind play) alternator charging system in my van.

The prices of dc-dc chargers are way overpriced and generally not good as a regular 110V charger. So, I use a pure sinewave inverter from my van battery to charge my LifePO4 through a regular LiFePO4 charger -35A vevor charger and also have a P20 charger.

Advantages:
1) Setup is simple. Van starts, switch on inverter, charger starts and starts charging (P20) where as with Vevor i need to just press the start charging button every time

2) Cost efficient - You already have inverter, 110V LiFePO4 charger. All you need is buy some good gauge wire (4 gauge) from battery to alternator and may be some Anderson plugs (175A)

3)Converting 12V to 110V back to 12V seem inefficient but actually the van is spending the same gas and the alternator is outputting the same (almost) amps in both these cases and so dc-dc charging is not really efficiently saving you anything.

The difference in alternator working harder is negligible (Prove me wrong - depends on your car but for vans with 90W or more output the difference doesn't matter)

4) LiFePO4 charging is efficient since using a regular LiFePO4 charger which senses what amperage to charge and reduces when getting fully charged.

The cost difference that makes up for a dc-dc charger is high and you should consider it if you want a budget friendly setup

I use only one inverter for charging and same for using the battery but in my case if I am driving I don't need to use battery power but I have a 2nd inverter just in case.

Since using the same inverter I have Anderson 175A plugs for easy disconnect or connect from alternator to battery through the inverter.
what if you don't have an inverter? and when I checked last a 20amp dc to dc and a 20 amp LiFePO4 charger were about the same price for me.
My dc to dc I can leave my upfitter switch on and as soon as I start the truck it starts charging, or I can turn the upfitter switch off and it won't charge.
 
I am using the inefficient (just a mind play) alternator charging system in my van.

The prices of dc-dc chargers are way overpriced and generally not good as a regular 110V charger. So, I use a pure sinewave inverter from my van battery to charge my LifePO4 through a regular LiFePO4 charger -35A vevor charger and also have a P20 charger.

Advantages:
1) Setup is simple. Van starts, switch on inverter, charger starts and starts charging (P20) where as with Vevor i need to just press the start charging button every time

2) Cost efficient - You already have inverter, 110V LiFePO4 charger. All you need is buy some good gauge wire (4 gauge) from battery to alternator and may be some Anderson plugs (175A)

3)Converting 12V to 110V back to 12V seem inefficient but actually the van is spending the same gas and the alternator is outputting the same (almost) amps in both these cases and so dc-dc charging is not really efficiently saving you anything.

The difference in alternator working harder is negligible (Prove me wrong - depends on your car but for vans with 90W or more output the difference doesn't matter)

4) LiFePO4 charging is efficient since using a regular LiFePO4 charger which senses what amperage to charge and reduces when getting fully charged.

The cost difference that makes up for a dc-dc charger is high and you should consider it if you want a budget friendly setup

I use only one inverter for charging and same for using the battery but in my case if I am driving I don't need to use battery power but I have a 2nd inverter just in case.

Since using the same inverter I have Anderson 175A plugs for easy disconnect or connect from alternator to battery through the inverter.

It sounds like you prefer the system you've set up which is terrific. Every user has different requirements and priorities and should tailor their system to their preferences.

As for your stated advantages:
1 - Simplicity? The system you describe is more complicated in that it requires user action to switch on the inverter. A DC-DC runs itself w/out any user engagement which is simpler.
2 - Cost efficient? Inverters are optional and many vans run entirely on 12 volts so in those cases the inverter is an added and unnecessary cost .
3 - Even ignoring the lack of evidence you're not describing an advantage, you're describing a similarity ("same", "same", etc.).
4 - Again, this applies to DC-DC chargers the same as AC-DC chargers so this is not an advantage, it's a similarity.

Your 2nd inverter seems like it would cancel any savings gained in buying a DC-DC charger and add needless complexity to the system unless redundancy is a requirement that justifies the cost.

Again, it's great that you have a system you prefer, which should be everyone's objective, but the stated advantages/disadvantages are questionable and may not be compelling to a specific user.
 
As is the case if one has lot of money then everything is subjective they can get what they want.

A very large percentage of van users use LiFeP04 with some kind of inverters and you are just talking about a small specialized group of users.

I just want to reiterate unsuspecting customers that a dc-dc charger is NOT a requirement to charge your LiFePO4 through your van's alternator and gives no added benefit than what they already have if they are resourceful.

I started building out Promaster Vans in 2018. Back then I went to wanting a 100% fully electric van at start of the build to settling on “Propane” & a very efficient 12vdc system. Van Electrical Systems have become a hobby for me now ,,, & I kinda feel like Gary (12v Van Electrical is My Jam);


If you are “saving money” why not just “direct charge” ,,, no inverter & no DC2DC equipment ?

2018 Van - Direct Charged House Batteries from Alternator

2021 Van - Direct Charged House Batteries from Alternator ,,, about a year ago I added a Kisae 1250 DC2DC (Dual - Alternator & Solar Charger)

I might of missed it in your posts, but the BIG Advantage of what you are doing (the Orton Method), is with DC “Distance Matters” ,,, With AC “Distance” 🤷‍♂️ Meh - Don’t Care !!


I can assure you, my DC2DC charging system is way way better with my Kisae than direct charging.
 
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my understanding...
whether you use DC-DC or a inverter + charger you are pulling X amount of watts from the truck's power system
if you charge your HOUSE with a 40amp current
you are pulling about 500w which ever method you use, BUT different methods will have different overheads

It may be a bit cheaper to use inverter because of wiring...
but for heaven sake don't disconnect the 120v while standing in the rain/puddle



the whole reason to do so is to control how much strain is on the chassis electrical
check your alternator FIRST ... it may already be built good enough to handle a deeply discharged lifepo4

if you don't get caught in a lot of traffic airflow may just be all you need
add a manual on/off switch on the existing BIM...

only turn on alternator charging when YOU decide it is good to do so ...
no traffic, cool weather, no big chassis loads (such as a/c+ lights + wipers).... turn the switch to allow BIM to connect
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7 pin trailers ... just use a digital voltage sensing relay and better wiring
add a manual on/off switch as well
$50.00
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and since we on a solar forum
put a 1000w of solar on the roof
I got 740w ( 2 x 370w) on a travel trailer .................. never worry about converter/shorepower or alternator
 

I can see this application in the future. Trickle/float charge it while driving and use an existing 48V LPF Battery and a EG4 3K in a box trailer. Trying not to use a generator for light but long pull loads. Lights, fans, TV, and little cooking

Voltage Converter Regulator DC/DC DC 12V Step-up to DC 48V 10A 480W Truck Power Boost Transformer

 

I can see this application in the future. Trickle/float charge it while driving and use an existing 48V LPF Battery and a EG4 3K in a box trailer. Trying not to use a generator for light but long pull loads. Lights, fans, TV, and little cooking

Voltage Converter Regulator DC/DC DC 12V Step-up to DC 48V 10A 480W Truck Power Boost Transformer


A voltage converter is not a charger in case it helps.
 

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