diy solar

diy solar

House burned down

I wonder if the fuses had been in a box, if the tragedy could have been avoided. I had a butt-joint burn thru (2 years ago) but it was in a metal connection box and might have saved my house....
Back when arc resistant switchgear was being rolled out and the engineering industry was being educated on the subject it was made clear that the expanding plasma needs a place to go. If you don't design a place then you have shrapnel.

Ultimately, even a 200A arc lasting 30 seconds is going to produce a lot of heat and the probability of secondary ignition is almost guaranteed. If you have a flammable or explosive gas in the mix then it will obviously get much worse quickly.
 
Part 1:
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/house-burned-down.83098/page-27#post-1084441


Part 2:
This is what the beginning of a catastrophe could look like:
(The following is a purely theoretical approach, but it applies to everyone who operates parallel banks without BMS - completely independent of the specific case. I don't want to offend anyone and explicitly exclude the specific case here - I don't know the exact data and voltages. )


Now let's assume that all 7 parallel banks are 55.2V and all 112 cells are 3.45V and fully charged. The absorption phase is complete and all cells are at their 100% SOC - no significant current flows into the 7 banks.

Now let's consider this arrangement as in Part 1 above: A cell number 105 in bank 7 gets a short circuit due to dendrite breakdown and the voltage in this cell approaches zero volts with high, but only internal, currents !!! What happens internally in this cell is not examined in more detail and has no electrical significance at all for the following consideration. (It is now only something like a wire.)

What is happening now in this bank 7?
Only a short, rapidly decreasing minimum charging current flows from the other 6 banks into number 7 until it also reaches 55.2V again. In this 100% SOC state ,the cells can no longer absorb any current at all.

With this short-circuited 0V cell, there is a crucial difference:
Each cell in bank number 7 now has an average of 55.2V/15= 3.68V instead of 3.45V and is therefore very dangerously overcharged in the long term. In reality, because of the uneven distribution, some cells might have 3.9 V and others correspondingly less.
What happens next with such permanently overloaded cells should be known. Only now could really high currents in bank 7 arise in the cascade effect by destruction and venting of some cells which would blow up the fuse of Nr.7.

The dilemma is:
in this system arrangement with one batrium instead of 7 BMS, there is unfortunately no possibility and no chance of separating the OVP cooking bank 7 - due to cell overvoltage - from the other 6 banks. An BMS could and would disconnect in a timely manner.


Sorry:
Such a Batrium system arrangement, without 7 BMS or (other switches) to separate the banks, is completely powerless in the very rare event that a cell short-circuits itself. Batrium has no way of removing Bank No.7 from the network of 7 banks..
Perhaps Batrium could switch some contactors between the banks, but they would then have to be installed additionally?

###############

Chapeaux Mr. @ScrotusGobbleBottom: i fully agree: (y)

.... It would only be a3. 2v drop and the other 15 cells would soak that up in mere seconds across the 15s. We are talking about 0.225v gain across the 15s remaining.... if the other cells were at rest, fully charged, at 3.45 they might not even be high cell voltage disconnect. I seriously doubt we are talking about more than 100 amps for less than a minute. Certainly nothing to blow a fuse over.
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/house-burned-down.83098/page-17#post-1080735
 
One of the reasons I like the one BMS per pack is that I can put a failsafe in the BMS: if my max power draw is 6kW (the inverter limit), and I have 7 banks in parallel, that means I can put the BMS limit at 20A discharge per pack or so. Anything over that and the pack gets disconnected. The same thing goes for the fuses: 50A per string. Yes, this means that if something happens to one pack, or I disconnect it under load, the entire system might go dark and all fuses blow, but I'm ok with that.

* simplified, not accounting for solar. Different charge/discharge rates in BMS and fuse accounting for max solar generation.
 
One of the reasons I like the one BMS per pack is that I can put a failsafe in the BMS: if my max power draw is 6kW (the inverter limit), and I have 7 banks in parallel, that means I can put the BMS limit at 20A discharge per pack or so. Anything over that and the pack gets disconnected. The same thing goes for the fuses: 50A per string. Yes, this means that if something happens to one pack, or I disconnect it under load, the entire system might go dark and all fuses blow, but I'm ok with that.

And to mitigate an accidental cascade leading to lights out and to enable some level of servicing, it would be quite simple to make each pack limit a bit higher, so you could in theory take a pack or two offline for servicing and not have to worry about it.
 
One of the reasons I like the one BMS per pack is that I can put a failsafe in the BMS: if my max power draw is 6kW (the inverter limit), and I have 7 banks in parallel, that means I can put the BMS limit at 20A discharge per pack or so. Anything over that and the pack gets disconnected. The same thing goes for the fuses: 50A per string. Yes, this means that if something happens to one pack, or I disconnect it under load, the entire system might go dark and all fuses blow, but I'm ok with that.

* simplified, not accounting for solar. Different charge/discharge rates in BMS and fuse accounting for max solar generation.
indeed , in most of the serious mishaps i have seen here, there was in almost all cases a single bms handling multiple parallel series involved.
I feel the same way as upnorthandpersonal....
one bms controles one series of cells (bank) and paralleled series (banks) each get their own fuse .
I'd dare to go up to 200A max, but that is it
 
What caused the fire?
Inadequate wall thimble for generator exhaust. The idea was to store/run generators from in the shed for shelter and noise abatement. And in fact, I ran the generators every other month for over a year and all seemed OK. The exhaust didn't seem that hot after 5 feet of exhaust pipe - I could pass my hand thru the exhaust.

On the day of the fire, I did a 40min generator run around noon, finished, and visually checked things - all seemed OK. However, it appears a smoldering fire was started and broke out of the wall 12hrs later ~midnight. By 1am the tanks were torching.

There was a formal fire investigation and I learned a few things from the fire folks. For example, did you know that wood can ignite as low as 200F? My research indicated more like 400-500F. Also, wood can slowly char over time from heat and lower the ignition point.

Yikes - DIY has risks and I feel so bad tarnishing DIY'ing with my mistakes.... e.g. inadequate thimble but even more so, not thinking clearly that the outside of a shed wall is *flammable* and propane must not be stored near anything flammable.

And BTW... the Champion 100297 w/74db specs was still causing 70db 5 feet from outside the shed with 2x6 framing, insulation. siding, and double dry-wall! Noise abatement was a failure. Going forward I'm going to spend $ for a Honda eu7000is with 58db and run in the open for emergency power.
 
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DIY has risks and I feel so bad tarnishing DIY'ing with my mistakes

Don't. Part of DIY is to learn to make better systems. Can't learn without mistakes, and sometimes even catastrophic ones. You know the saying in engineering: 'Every safety rule and regulation is written in blood'. In this field, some of the rules have yet to be written, which is why it's important people talk about them.
 
It was 1am and seemed like it could take out the whole neighborhood but apparently it's good news the tanks vented and burned as apposed to exploding. Neighbors not happy and I don't blame them. Took out shared fence, shed, 27panel PV array, and 2 x 2500gal rain harvest tanks, and melted the neighbor's pool liner above the water line.

I can totally sympathize with the OP... traumatic experience.... but mine is minor compared to the OP as ours is just out-structure damage and all houses are fine/functional.
View attachment 213703View attachment 213704

It's been a month and rebuild is under way..... shared fence restored and enough cleanup to reduce the trauma.
View attachment 213706
I lived in hoa once - never again but a propane tank leaked in a home - fireplace fed - filled the whole house than it went big kaboom … the small bbq tank out side went boom too. Stuff flew everywhere. The ppl living there were gone on vacation and some ppl thought it was arson.

So after that all big propane tanks had to be buried unless bbq grill. No more then 1 tank. No one but a fireman was hurt - he stepped on some twisted ankle. Got that house - it blew into pieces and both on each side were damaged from debri. Lucky it had just been major storm.

You guys were darn lucky. Congrats…surviving it.

In my area now can put the 120 gallon next to house but bigger tanks have to be 10 feet away from structures. Wood lets off gasses as it heats up.

For everyone…..
As for Batrium seems it should be parallel with bms as extra safety. More costly? You already spent ton money - OP bought 100 kWh battery bank and going to cheap out now? Hmmmm some will say nay sayers are wrong this sub sank …. just like home made sub went to see Titanic. Proof went up in smoke. Then again who knows if it was the battery at all. We don’t . Ppl need to reason. What is the added cost to add bms? When it comes to safety vs money what is your family and stuff worth?

Power generation is full of pit falls. This could been avoided if they had made more cinder blocks. Nope.

Think the point of this forum is to learn and improve. The OP had what was considered Best of Best….
 
Forgot to add this csst gas line is reported as cause of that gas line failure … something about…. some how during storm …. lightning went through popped hole.
“Gas line and popped a hole in it.” This csst type gas line is reported cause fires all over USA and was common in homes and is still sold. They say it was not bonded correctly…why lightning takes it out when strike happens nearby. They say it is .008” thick wall. Still sold all across the country.

IMG_6337.jpeg
IMG_6338.jpeg
Example …. Stored energy is dangerous. Got csst flex type gas lines in your home? The way some connections are made it is impossible to really bond it. So…… if home had fire place in that hoa it had csst.

The Arson was most likely the maker of the csst type gas line in described home for last post. Installer gets the blame. Buy beware.

Caveat emptor


That csst is builder - govt approved.
 
Our water tank and furnace are plumbed with that stuff. I don't like it, I don't like how it is run either.
Actually I think our incoming line might even be that stuff...
 
I see no reason to add a redundant BMS when using a Batrium.

The main takeaway from any of this is fuses for batteries should be Class T or similar construction. Originally when I built my truck camper system, the ANL was popular, over time people tested the ANL and found the Class T was superior when the fuse blew. I had built with ANL back then and it was suggested I switch to Class T which I eventually did.

I do not understand the mindset where the Batrium needs to have a BMS on each 48V battery when a Class T is used on each battery. A mosfet BMS can fail under high current and still allow high current to pass. The only safe system is a Class T type fuse that will blow, not sustain an arc, start/sustain ignition and not blow molten material around.

I buy my Class T fuses from Don Rowe for $60 each and that includes the holder. Protection so cheap it doesn't make any sense to do anything else.
 
Our water tank and furnace are plumbed with that stuff. I don't like it, I don't like how it is run either.
Actually I think our incoming line might even be that stuff...
There is Type K copper with the yellow pvc covering.
 
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I see no reason to add a redundant BMS when using a Batrium.

The main takeaway from any of this is fuses for batteries should be Class T or similar construction. Originally when I built my truck camper system, the ANL was popular, over time people tested the ANL and found the Class T was superior when the fuse blew. I had built with ANL back then and it was suggested I switch to Class T which I eventually did.

I do not understand the mindset where the Batrium needs to have a BMS on each 48V battery when a Class T is used on each battery. A mosfet BMS can fail under high current and still allow high current to pass. The only safe system is a Class T type fuse that will blow, not sustain an arc, start/sustain ignition and not blow molten material around.

I buy my Class T fuses from Don Rowe for $60 each and that includes the holder. Protection so cheap it doesn't make any sense to do anything else.
because you need one BMS per bank, it may be that a cell on one bank gets a short circuit or simply slowly discharges towards 0V due to dentriden. if so, the other banks charge the remaining cells of the defective bank above 3.65V, it doesn't have to be such high currents, it already smells like 20A per bank, with 6 banks that's 120A so approx. 6kW that have to go somewhere.... you can't solve something like this with a fuse. each bank needs a BMS that is set as low as possible with the charging/discharging power. I have fused my banks with 100A and limited the respective BMS to 50A power, which is enough for 3x Multiplus 2 3000
 
I still cannot see how a single failed cell can cascade into this failure without lots of extenuating circumstances.

Is it possible that a failed inverter with a large inductor shutting down introduced a large voltage spike to the batteries that caused dielectric breakdown in multiple cells. If multiple cells failed, the remaining parallel bank could then dump into the shorted cells with enough potential to maintain an arc discharge.

In any event a key lesson learned (re-learned) is that power fuses need to be isolated and contained in a fire-proof metal enclosure. (Just like it is done in a power substation)
 
because you need one BMS per bank, it may be that a cell on one bank gets a short circuit or simply slowly discharges towards 0V due to dentriden. if so, the other banks charge the remaining cells of the defective bank above 3.65V, it doesn't have to be such high currents, it already smells like 20A per bank, with 6 banks that's 120A so approx. 6kW that have to go somewhere.... you can't solve something like this with a fuse. each bank needs a BMS that is set as low as possible with the charging/discharging power. I have fused my banks with 100A and limited the respective BMS to 50A power, which is enough for 3x Multiplus 2 3000
With low internal resistance due to the cell shorting, the current will be high. It won't slowly discharge, especially if the cell is 0V. A fuse will blow.

The slow discharge you mention will readily show on the Batrium screen as that cell will be lower in voltage than the others, charging and discharging.
 
I still cannot see how a single failed cell can cascade into this failure without lots of extenuating circumstances.
I'm not sure I fully understand, but it seems to me a shorted sell is like a million watt lightbulb. All the cells from the other batteries are going to try to light it up. The cable going to that battery is taking in a huge amount of current. Once the fuse blows, that flow stops. If if it can arc, it will, because that cell is still wanting to be lit up. Do I have this right?
 
I'm not sure I fully understand, but it seems to me a shorted sell is like a million watt lightbulb. All the cells from the other batteries are going to try to light it up. The cable going to that battery is taking in a huge amount of current. Once the fuse blows, that flow stops. If if it can arc, it will, because that cell is still wanting to be lit up. Do I have this fight?
Yes, I believe you mean right and not fight. :ROFLMAO:

I don't believe a FET based BMS will help in such a circumstance.
 
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