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diy solar

QO vs Homeline

Want shunt trip? They have that:

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I used one of those to dump the non-critical loads panel when my generator fired up. Then you could manually manage loads if you wanted to run the AC or do a load of laundry or whatever.
 
I used one of those to dump the non-critical loads panel when my generator fired up. Then you could manually manage loads if you wanted to run the AC or do a load of laundry or whatever.
So the shunt trip coil was powered by the generator?

How did you manually turn the breaker on? If the shunt coil was still powered, it would just trip right away. This implies you had a switch to disable the shunt trip coil when you wanted manual control.

Using a shut trip breaker does allow automatic load shed, which is clever.

Mike C.
 
I've only ever used 2 hands for my Homeline covers but I can see where an extra would be handy. Opening the door, lining up the cover, closing the door and pressing it in place with 1 hand while starting the screws with the other can be a pita; especially when you let the cover slide and knock the breaker loose in the live panel your working on causing the lights to go out...

You knocked a breaker off when simply putting a cover on. Umm... Take your time and be safe!!
 
Want two circuits per slot? They got tandems (panel has to be compatible):

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Only if the breaker is "Circuit Limiting", has a hook on the back. Then panel needs corresponding slot.

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The ones with spring clips like other breakers fit any QO panel.

You might run low on neutral or ground holes, so mount another (or larger) ground bar and tie in to existing bar with a wire.

They also have 20/30 & 30/20 tandems, which can be ganged to make 30A 2-pole & 20A 2-pole if you have several.
 
Do you need 2.5 hands to install the cover on the Homeline? Do the breakers sag? This is per another comment in this thread. The Homeline I installed never required more than my 2.0 hands. Now the old Zinsco panel required 2 hands, a foot, and a pry bar. hahaha
Nope, doesn't take more than 2.0 hands. Lol

That goes for both QO and Homeline! I would almost say the Homeline breakers are a hair less "saggy" than the QO ones, to be honest.
 
QO for me. Did a 100Amp sub panel in my shop. Breakers cost a bit more but I like how the plug on neutral works, keeps the panel nice and tidy. The Homeline breakers just felt cheap to me.
Plug on neutral is so nice! Homeline series has this as well! It cleans up a panel nicely with regular breakers even, and then if you use plug on neutral gfci and afci breakers, you don't have all the curly wires cluttering the gutter where you want to run the next wire down through!
 
Current install is homeline split panel bus with plug-on neutral ( my house ) which replace the zinsco that came with the home and the cost was half of QO from the box store. I have done extensive work with QO for commercial locations, great product and more compact but not on my dime.
 
There's nothing wrong with Homeline. It was brought to the market to give Square D a price competitor to the other residential panel manufacturers.
QO is a step above that level. QO stands for Quick Open. Because of its ability to open the circuit in as little as a single cycle. (1/60 of a second)
This plus the visual trip indicator, makes it preferable. If the price increase is acceptable. Not to mention the DC ratings.
All of this together makes it my choice for my system.
But I have nothing against the other manufacturers. I have installed them all.
 
I'll be a repeat Zoro customer, talk about fast shipping...
The case of the QO feels thicker than the Homeline; I just have to remember where I set my calipers down last to verify...
I didn't realize this one came with 2 ground bars, one with a large lug; nice.
 

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I'll be a repeat Zoro customer, talk about fast shipping...
The case of the QO feels thicker than the Homeline; I just have to remember where I set my calipers down last to verify...
I didn't realize this one came with 2 ground bars, one with a large lug; nice.
What the? You didn't get the 40 circuit panel? LOL......
 
10kW / 240V = 41.7A per inverter.
50A? Or larger? breaker
x2 = 100A or 120A of PV breakers on 125A panel.
Sum of breakers rule. And could add 25A (or 5A??) additional breaker.

What is main panel? 200A or 225A, with 100A or 125A PV breaker?
What main breaker, what rule?

I'm going around the panel, using a Load Side Tap, to avoid 120% or whatever rule.

Right now I'm dealing with defining system in SolarAPP+, I want "Load Side Tap" but it only offers "Line Side Tap" or various ways to backfeed breaker panels.
 
10kW / 240V = 41.7A per inverter.
50A? Or larger?
I ordered 2 60A.
breaker
x2 = 100A or 120A of PV breakers on 125A panel.
Sum of breakers rule. And could add 25A (or 5A??) additional breaker.
I know I'm breaking the rules but I'm a rebel at times.
What is main panel? 200A or 225A, with 100A or 125A PV breaker?
What main breaker, what rule?
It's a 200A main.
I'm going around the panel, using a Load Side Tap, to avoid 120% or whatever rule.

Right now I'm dealing with defining system in SolarAPP+, I want "Load Side Tap" but it only offers "Line Side Tap" or various ways to backfeed breaker panels.

I'm doing it this way so it's isolated from the grid and easy to pull down and relocate when I move. I can put the house back to original in an hour if needed.

The thought crossed my mind today to build the whole thing on strut and casters...
 
I ordered 2 60A.

I know I'm breaking the rules but I'm a rebel at times.

You'll have to try harder.
PV Aggregator panel is allowed, 2x 60A breakers on a 125A busbar. Sum of breakers (not counting main or OCP feeding the panel) doesn't exceed busbar rating.

It's a 200A main.

If 100A or 125A breaker feeding PV aggregator, this 200A busbar panel would be in compliance with up to 100A or 75A of additional breakers (per pole.)

Of course, installed at far end of bus, L1 & L2 can't experience excessive current.
N can, however. So don't exceed 200A of single phase loads on either leg (or less, if wires feeding panel have lower ampacity.)

I'm doing it this way so it's isolated from the grid and easy to pull down and relocate when I move. I can put the house back to original in an hour if needed.

The thought crossed my mind today to build the whole thing on strut and casters...

And hard wired into main panel?

I picked up a 60A 120/240V welder cord + outlet (not cheap!)
I'm using that to power a sub panel for my lab/workshop (conversion of old bedroom involved installing a single outlet.)

But only enough amperage for one of your inverters, not both.
You could install 2x 60A outlets in your main panel and plug in two inverters with separate power cords.
 
I'm assuming that it's wired into the main panel on a breaker interlock situation.
 
"parallel 2 10KW inverters and feed back to the 'main' panel"

Right, I was thinking from my GT PV perspective.

Maybe main panel can also feed forward to it for pass-through and charging from grid?
I had both for a while, until I switched to Load Side Tap.
 
I'm assuming that it's wired into the main panel on a breaker interlock situation.
Even better, grid won't even be connected to it, the grid connection is in it's own isolated panel, the only output will be a rectifier for battery charging, if needed.

"parallel 2 10KW inverters and feed back to the 'main' panel"

Right, I was thinking from my GT PV perspective.

Maybe main panel can also feed forward to it for pass-through and charging from grid?
I had both for a while, until I switched to Load Side Tap.
Ahh, I should have been clearer, I can see how my statement was confusing. No grid tie here.... When I find land to build on I'll be completely off grid, this is intended to be a trial run in a sense.
 
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