diy solar

diy solar

Am I going in the right direction?

Buzz Lighting

New Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2024
Messages
26
Location
NH
Hello everyone. My first foray into the solar avenue was with our 2015 Airstream Interstate Sprinter Van that we bought new back then and still have as we love traveling and camping. In January of 2022, we got tired of only being able to boondock for one night without draining our 180 Ah’s of AGM batteries with just the fridge/freezer running overnight. So I dove into reading and researching everything that I could on upgrading our system and caught the solar bug. I must admit upfront that I’m definitely in the blue camp with Victron. I ended up upgrading our system to 600 Ah’s of lithium, 500 Watts of solar, two Victron 50A Buck Boosts for alternator charging and the rest of the Victron goodies for our Sprinter B van. I’m constantly tweaking it and a big fan of Nate from Explorist Life for van related components. However, I’ve become a big fan of this forum and have been reading everything that can from some very knowledgeable folks here.

Now, after shaking my head at our outrageous electric bills, I told my wife that it was enough and I started doing some research on our home system. I’ve slowly begun setting up our system with the smaller electric stuff such as a critical loads panel, transfer switch, 100A cutoff switch, wireways, bussbars etc. I’m fairly comfortable doing electrical work and if not comfortable - research the heck out of it or ask the head of electrical department at the University where I work at. However, even he is not too familiar with solar setups and my go to guy reading info on is timselectric here - thank you Tim for your input! Again, I’m really partial to Victron as that’s what we have in our Sprinter Van and I’ve become accustomed to their ecosystem and I really like it. The only other system that I’m somewhat interested in is the new Midnite Solar “The One” and still not out of the running. That would be the only AIO system that I would even consider after all the research that I’ve done. Solar panels will also be ground mount and not going on the roof. I’m going to buy a few different ground mounts to see which one I like. I’m picking up a new EG4 BrightMount Ground Mount that I found on Craigslist this Saturday for $150 new.

I must admit that this has been a PITA. Instead of running only one ground for the wireway, I decided to run a ground bushing at every connection coming from the electrical panels as I’ve copied from Dexter’s YouTube videos from CC. Probably overkill but what the heck. No inspections as we’re not planning to sell back to the grid. I’ve installed 3 Emporia Vues so far to get an idea of what we’re using for power. One in the main panel, one in the basement’s first sub panel and the other in the garage sub-panel. Planning to install a fourth one in the CLP as well once it’s up and going.

The two questions that I have and a bit confused on are:
  1. Do I have to use a grounding bushing at very connection coming from the Victron 5K Inverters and solar charge controller or can I get away with just running their grounds to one of the wireway grounds? I intend on somehow separating the AC from the DC side in the wireway by adding an additional 4” wireway for the DC side. I’m still not sure if I do this or use some type of separator in the 8” wireway.
  2. I intend to just move over the breakers and the hot wire for every circuit that I intend to move to the Critical Loads Panel. I’m already going to run a L1, L2, N, & G from the main panel to the Eaton Panel and from the Eaton Panel to the Generator panel and then to the CLP. Do I still have to run an additional N & G from the Main Panel to the CLP panel even though there is already a N & G wire ran connection from the other panels to connect my CL’s circuits? The main NG bond is at the main panel on the outside panel.
So far, the setup that I’m going with and the actual components that I’ve installed are: ****FYI - vendor will be Current Connected for sure****

2 Victron 5K - Waiting to get ordered
1 Victron 450V/100A - Waiting to get ordered
2 EG4 Indoor Wallmount 48V 280 Ah batteries - Waiting to get ordered
Solar Panels - waiting to get ordered *** Looking to end up with around 6-10k watts but to start more realistically starting out with about 4-5k.
1 - 100A Reliance Grid / 50A Generator Transfer Switch - Installed
1 - 100A Critical Loads Panel - Installed
1 - 100A Eaton Double Throw Safety Switch - Installed
2 - 6 x 6 x 60 wireways - Installed
1 - 8 x 8 x 36 wireway - Installed
1 - Lynx T- Class Fuse Power In - ordered and in route.
2 - 250A Class - T fuses - ordered
1 - Lynx Distributor - ordered *** Initially ordered the M10 Version but returned it as the Lynx shunt only comes in with M8 connection and I didn’t want to deal with modifying four connections and decided on only dealing with two modifications going to the Lynx Class-T Power In.
1 - Lynx 100A Shunt - ordered
1 - IMO PV Disconnect - ordered and on hand.
1 - Pulsar 9,500 Watt Dual Fuel Inverter Generator - Propane/ GAS - In place. ***I know that it’s not enough but decent enough to get by***
2 AWG L1, L2, N and #6 AWG Ground ordered and on hand. Decided to go with 2 AWG just in case for future upgrades.

Thank you for any and all feedback - greatly appreciated!
 

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Some pics of our van solar setup
 

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From the first pic - put drywall or cement board behing all the electrical gear over that plywood.
Not sure if this is part of your NEC but in my area no DC in the same trough as the AC - separators are allowed but this still didn't work for me as the wires need to cross somewhere to get to equipment. So separate trough for the DC conductors - in my case I put the DC below the AC and put spacers behind the AC trough to allow DC to pass behind (between wall and back of the AC trough).
Consider the Chargeverter for charging batteries from Generator.
 
From the first pic - put drywall or cement board behing all the electrical gear over that plywood.
Not sure if this is part of your NEC but in my area no DC in the same trough as the AC - separators are allowed but this still didn't work for me as the wires need to cross somewhere to get to equipment. So separate trough for the DC conductors - in my case I put the DC below the AC and put spacers behind the AC trough to allow DC to pass behind (between wall and back of the AC trough).
Consider the Chargeverter for charging batteries from Generator.

I was considering adding some cement board on the bottom of the AC panel area of the panels as I've considered moving the batteries under there but I'll just do the whole are area above and below - thank you!
 
I was considering adding some cement board on the bottom of the AC panel area of the panels as I've considered moving the batteries under there but I'll just do the whole are area above and below - thank you!
Quick question - If I decide to run the DC wires from the inverters and the charge controller through the wall which is cement board and wood - do I have to put it in conduit ir can can I get get away with just putting it through without it? A bit leary from the fire post so I'm willing to put it in conduit through the wall just to be safe.
 
There may be a simple answer to your questions but I don’t know it. This video may help though!

 
Quick question - If I decide to run the DC wires from the inverters and the charge controller through the wall which is cement board and wood - do I have to put it in conduit ir can can I get get away with just putting it through without it? A bit leary from the fire post so I'm willing to put it in conduit through the wall just to be safe.
Conduit. You sound like a “better safe than sorry” kind of guy :)
 
Quick question - If I decide to run the DC wires from the inverters and the charge controller through the wall which is cement board and wood - do I have to put it in conduit ir can can I get get away with just putting it through without it?
DC inside a structure Only in metal - ie in metal trough or conduit or metal clad cable.
 
One comment, in your pictures you use the flip lever style breakers in two places. I didn't see any vendor markings on them. If the are the cheap ones off amazon you may want to rethink them.

Make sure to mark your conduit with the dc cables and pv cables appropriately.

You didn't say you were off grid and implied you are on-grid by saying you don't want to export power. If there is ever any chance at all that you will backfeed the grid you need to be totally up to code, inspected and sign an interconnect agreement. If they catch you connected without it there could be consequences.
 
One comment, in your pictures you use the flip lever style breakers in two places. I didn't see any vendor markings on them. If the are the cheap ones off amazon you may want to rethink them.
Which pictures are you referring to? I strictly try to stay away from cheap Amazon or Chinese's breakers as I've learned the hard way. The second set of pictures are from from our RV motorhome and the first set are from our home.
 
Which pictures are you referring to? I strictly try to stay away from cheap Amazon or Chinese's breakers as I've learned the hard way. The second set of pictures are from from our RV motorhome and the first set are from our home.

They are the van setup.
 

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Okey Dokey, Good then.

Note - Blue Sea Systems relabels all of their electrical gear. The actual MFG for it is Eaton, Buss, Bussman, and littlefuse. They just relabel them and mark them up. Pays to shop around

Here is exactly the same part from the 4 websites

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A - $28.49
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-5196-Block-Common/dp/B0019ZBTV4 = $22.21
https://powerwerx.com/eaton-bussman-cbbfmrbf-bus-bar-assembly - $13.99

separate parts - $11.57



And the type breaker I was looking at -
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ = $89.71
https://powerwerx.com/eaton-187f-waterproof-circuit-breaker-surface-200a = $55.87
 
Okey Dokey, Good then.

Note - Blue Sea Systems relabels all of their electrical gear. The actual MFG for it is Eaton, Buss, Bussman, and littlefuse. They just relabel them and mark them up. Pays to shop around

Here is exactly the same part from the 4 websites

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A - $28.49
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-5196-Block-Common/dp/B0019ZBTV4 = $22.21
https://powerwerx.com/eaton-bussman-cbbfmrbf-bus-bar-assembly - $13.99

separate parts - $11.57



And the type breaker I was looking at -
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ = $89.71
https://powerwerx.com/eaton-187f-waterproof-circuit-breaker-surface-200a = $55.87
Thank you for the links. I took your advice from another thread and ordered my Class-T fuses from Powerwerx. Actually, I might just stop ordering fuses and breakers from Amazon altogether.
 
I do like the MRBF fuses and used a double stud one to extend my Victron Lynx Distributor in the van. I also put one at the battery before the Class-T fuse which about less than a foot down the line.
 

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I do like the MRBF fuses and used a double stud one to extend my Victron Lynx Distributor in the van. I also put one at the battery before the Class-T fuse which about less than a foot down the line.


Yup, I like the MRBF on the battery post of single or double batteries. If more batteries are in parallel I want a MRBF at the post and at the bus bar. Might even do class T per battery then another on the other side.
 
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