Recent content by _laurens

Does anyone know what kind of metal is used for those screws? I need to get replacement because I was to hard to it :cool:

Haha three of those are dulled, as expected. Though it might work but you got exactly the correct thickness bit for it; likely haha. I will try to find some hex screws for this Might ping up the rep for it, I don't see any reason why they would go philips with this one... haha. Edit: all are...

Haha welp, this is going to be fun ~

oeh, missed that part thanks but i'm wondering, he says to use 7nm for those smaller screws (bms); however he has a hex but I have a philips screw... pretty sure it'll break before 7nm

I would have expected you to have two nuts; one that is attached to your screw terminal (and can't move) and the other to mount lugs. I can't seem to find a way how you could've torqued this appropiately. That would mean the screw itself would carry the current; while it's nice to have as...

It's a 13mm hex, and the thread is thicker than a 6mm; so it's either 8 or 10 likely. Torqued those with 7nm because those are big and I assumed it can take more, I'm specially interested in the shunt en vertical bar with 3 screws (I have it now torqued at 2nm)

Thanks a lot :-)

I'm currently builder a mason 280 system; however the manual is a bit confusing regarding the torque (or well, the whole manual). It says: with this image: With this I think it would be: The long bar with 3 horizontal screws: 1.5 - 2nm fuse connector: 7nm shunt connector: 7nm(?) looks too...

You can just calculate how much profit you would have, and how long it'll take to pay back for the system. It might be a good choice to go solar only, and keep the grid connection because the prices are not that high (depending on usage), and you'd want to have a backup anyway. But that depends...

Does anyone have access to the manual from Seplos Mason 280? Their website does not allow me to register and I did not receive any paper with it. Would love it, if you guys would like to share those :-) battery are nearly top balanced :cool:

I think that would be 10D which is v15(?), pretty sure the 10E would be V16 unless the seller got it wrong.

I thought it might be an issue with resistance, even if it's rather small in time the gap might be widening, which is why I assumed it was better to have it. Yeah, the downside is it might be masking bad cells which can also cause problems in the long term, I think, decided to go with a mason...

Thanks, I will be sure to heat shrink them, was making sure if it was okay. Will be sure to trim those loose hairs a bit, and apply heat shrink :) Can't wait to receive my batteries!

Thanks guys, did some test crimping, any tips? I think the top one shifted a bit, would it be suggested to re-do that one? I used an hammer crimper. Both are really stuck on it.

it does fit in 10mm2 but barely with no space left; not sure if that would be the correct way to do it. AWG 7 seems to be a thing, it's a awg that is not often used, likely. It's odd they included those wires; tbh I doubt it can pull 200amps both combined (I think they are alum wire)