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John knows. The terminal-buss bar connection should be carrying most of the current, not the fastener that holds it together. Galvanic compatibility is more important, which brass and aluminum (battery terminal) are not. The brass will cause the aluminum to corrode

Are these screws/rivets flush? If not not the bottom of the battery above may wear through its case, and if the bottom 4 is a tight friction fit, will wear the top of that cell too. If there is any voltage potential between the cells case and terminals this wont end well either once it wears...

You also must take into consideration the busbar-fastner compatibility as well, but the aluminum post on the cell being the hardest to replace, is the most important to worry about not ruining ;) The paste is very important at stopping the oxygen getting in and starting the process. you also...

The new MPP solar pip 7248max is in the same kinda ballpark if you're ok with Taiwanesium ;) https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/pip-max/ https://mppsolar.com.au/product/pip-7248max-7200watt-48v-off-grid-inverter/

Actually looks like a slotted pozidriv. very common in electrical gear, very much a pain in the arse unless you have the right driver and size, cause neither a pozidriv or flat blade work well at all to apply the needed torque. "Modulo" is a common name for them if you want to invest in the...

I was refering the the MPP solar inverter. In re-reading my comment, i can see the confusion I've made

In addition to this, FET based the losses not only increase with current, they also increase with temperature. so if it has a crummy cooling solution, it will lose even more. A contactors power use is constant. A quality contactor with an economiser (or you could DIY it too) will use less than 5w

Also no. When you're charging a lead acid battery and its gassing off, it is gassing off the hydrogen and oxygen out of the water, the amount of sulfric acid molecules should remain the same.

How attached to the house is she? Swap her home out for a single story one with no stairs. Or apartment/home/unit/something with a lift in the building already.

Agree with the above, how are the panels configured? Bet your hitting the current limit of the MPPT tracker cause your string voltage is too low. google fu of the manual and wild speculation, im guessing its 27A, 3,500/27 is 129v, so 3 x 43 volts in series, then 10x parallel is my guess. do you...

As far as i can understand in the manual they support parallel four in single phase, or six in three phase

To strictly answers OPs title. Possible? yes Practical or worth it? nope 96v nominal solar charge controller is gonna be niche and expensive. You will need at least 150v panel voltage, that's 250+ solar cells. Then trying to get them all seeing the sun at once while riding it. The amount of...

Ampere IS the SI defined unit of current. Another way is coulomb. 1 coulomb is 1 amp second so 280ah is 1MC in SI base units. I guess you could state it that way, but it doesn't mean much in everyday use. If we factor in voltage and quoting total energy, our 896 watt hours becomes 3.2MJ in the...

Do you have a hammer drill? something like this works wonders. this one is for an SDS drill, but ones exist that just go into a regular chuck too https://www.amazon.com.au/SDS-Ground-Driver-Inch-Diameter/dp/B00OT0AIKO

get whatever BMS you like the features of, and run a contactor. FETs are gonna get hot AKA waste energy at those kinds of currents. Personally anything that you intend on frequently using over 100A continuous i would go for a contactor

i would get a DC DC charger. 560ah will toast a 10A alternator if let loose on it.

the first 12v doesn't have to be a MPP, can be anything. the MPP all in ones AC input is a battery charger, so electrically you're charging your 48v batteries from the first 12v inverter, and then the 48v inverter is drawing from the 48v batteries for your AC loads.

This so much, would not touch with a barge pole based on the atrocious documentation alone someone that uses mAh to inflate numbers is someone that makes mobile power banks with bogus capacities. Not to mention their maths doesn't add up. Nominal capacity:10240000mAh I think someone means micro...

Are you utilizing solar and AC in your system? Use any one of the all in one units that tickles your fancy that can do AC charging, and run an inverter of the vehicles 24v system connected to the AC input of your all in one. You set the charge limit on the all in one to be appropriate to the max...

I bought a 100ah model 6 odd months ago, paid AUD450 no problems for the time i had it. never done a capacity test though

I can think of one instance where a lead acid bank could still beat out a LFP on life time cost: low cycle standby backup power systems. Think somewhere like a remote communications site, that has grid connection 99% of the time powering the equipment and keeping the bank at float, that is...

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Equipment/Power-Supply/MXF002-2XC So I noticed Milwaukee have finally released this in their high-power MX range. US$2,199.00 for 1,800w continuous 3,600w peak, including 2 batteries. Extra batteries are US$599.00 (AU$899!) 72v 6.0Ah 2p40s li-ion. Sure it...

Third Anderson connections. Powerpole single pole ones are available in up to 175A, and are stackable to make multi-conductor connections SB series are available in up to 350A, and a bit more rugged and sturdier. https://www.ctals.com.au/collections/what-size-anderson-plug has a decent write up...

i'm assuming the alternator is the coaches main system alternator and not a standalone auxiliary unit. not many vehicles have standalone dual voltage setups. most that had dual 12/24v systems merely tapped 12v loads of half the battery bank and used an equaliser

Sounds like you need a DC-DC charger in your trailer. Also will be essential when/if you upgrade to LifePo4. by the time the voltage drop gets down to the batteries in the trailer, there's not enough voltage to charger to a decent SOC. The vehicles battery is probably getting killed by...

So I'm resurrecting this thread because it best matches what i would like to achieve without starting a new one. I am able to get solar panels cheep, used and removed off grid tie systems, 50 bucks a pop for 250w (they get scrapped otherwise). I wish to slap together something low power, cheap...

yeah in that case id go for bunging on a big-ass 5kw, or more to give headroom, inverter as close as practical to the alternator, and then use the AC charging on an all in one unit, and set its AC charge limit accordingly.

Are you using the same multimeter for both measurements, or using what the MPPT is reporting or something? Either the cable is damaged/grossly undersized, or you have a poor connection somewhere. Start measuring the voltage across cables/connections.

Grid tie isn't worth it for such a small system, the repayment window is atleast a few years on large multi kilowatt cost-optimised system. Also forgoing your microwave requirement will make things MUCH cheaper inverter and battery wise, let alone being able to harvest the energy from the sun to...

Dare i ask, if these SSR are so efficient, why the big arse heatsink? When the spec sheet rounds the max on state voltage drop up to 1v, it doesn't inspire much confidence when they cant even rate it to hundreds of milivolts. p=IV. Even at 500 amps, thats potentially a nice 500W heater you have...

The heat from a mosfet comes from the voltage drop across them, not from the milliwatts required to operate them.

Was the ebay seller Maximum Solar? A few users in oz have had after sales problems with them. Purchasing directly from MPP Solar Australia for a little bit more is probably a safer bet, and domestic if there is a warranty issue. https://mppsolar.com.au/ although i see they don't sell the model...

well technically if there was no current but the thing was still turned on, there would be no voltage drop and no energy loss on the switching device. Yes a SSR will win out strictly in energy required to operate any day of the week. But when it comes to energy lost in operation, the tables...

wowsers those holes are drunk as hell! are they drilling them with a hand drill LMAO. Almost worth asking for them undrilled if you have a drill press

how often does a BMS kick in to disconnect the load though? It is soley there to protect your battery. if your system is designed and sized appropriately it should be always on. 80mv is pretty good if it does live up to that, much better than what most offer of 1v But yes, back to OP Pick...

Get the grid connected, cover the roof of your metal-shop-shed with solar panels on a grid tie inverter. Never going to be worth going completely off grid if you need to offer each user even a fraction of their 30a service at any given time.

http://www.jgmdirect.com/website/index.php?route=product/category&path=120_170 never heard of the brand though Eaton do 250vDC in their PLS6-DC series

Depending on the specs of the mosfet, anywhere from 0.1 to 0.5v forward voltage drop is normal an unavoidable. Multi-meter voltage across the input and output of the BMS to confirm that. This is where the heat comes from in high current mosfets, and limits their practicality at higher current.

I agree with DavidPoz on this one. Spec for spec wise, practically the same as their 100ah other than larger, more convienient packaging and more expensive / kWhr. Hardly a game changer at all.

I've just realised I've picked the wrong words (and cant ninja edit lol). should be "for the time i have had it". Still have it, currently not in use sitting in storage as i have just moved house.

And you have to pay your employees too much, even in USA.

TBH relying on only the thin plastic sleeve that is around the cells as the only seperator between it and a metal case is a pretty daft and game move on their behalf. If installed in anything that ever moves it's gonna do this eventually.

I'm not sure what kind of earthing system they use in Canada, but the "multiple earth nuetral" (TN−C−S) system we use in Australia is only very safe when the multiple neutral part of it is intact, the integrity of the neutral is paramount for its safety. Once you get a broken neutral, it can...

i had a shower thought for an easy, yet probably not very efficient (but who cares lol) method to achieve charging from a vehicles engine. if you're running an all in one inverter with a 240v/220v charger like the MPP solar range, use an appropriately sized to your alternator output 12v...