Recent content by DeValency

Thanks again! I was able to recharge the cell to the rated voltage of 3.3V, it took three days. Here is somewhat related question. I can see all the dedicated LFP 4S chargers are 14.4V and these are the charging voltages I see all around. However, if the four cells are well balanced at...

Many thanks for the detailed possible repair receipt! This is very helpful. As the cell (module) is of 100A capacity it could take a long time to reach 2.5V @ 200-300mA… no? But that’s ok. The battery was sitting here for about 8 months so could wait few more… So far LitoKala are not even...

Interesting. I used a Daly BMS and never checked this. I really appreciate your comments here.

The BMS shut down the entire battery at some point, I didn’t check the battery for months as it was disconnected. Apparently this module continued to drop… Thanks for the info on this seller!

ooops. Thanks. You are right... :) but never discharged as explained below, they were all fine for few months and apparently one module died, the other three stayed at their nominal voltage...

A strange issue. Built two 100A 4S LFP batteries. Each had a separate and different BMS. Both worked well on a bench for months without any discharge after a proper charge within the levels for each module and battery. Few months later, after being disconnected from the chargers checked each...

My guess is that by using DC-DC charger, even if the BMS fails in a way that it directly connects the LFP to the charging (sounds like very unusual failure, the more common will be a disconnection of the LFP) - the DC-DC charger limited to its rated current (Way under the alternator output)...

Actually looked at these batteries pack at the beginning of my searches. Decided not to go with it although the price looked attractive. A cat in the sack was risky to start with, especially when you see them using a generic hardware hard case as an improvised housing. Thanks for the report o...

John et al - Interesting and thanks for the extensive details! My plan was actually going the other way. Might be more conservative at this point but as mentioned, the new LFP house bank will only be charged by the existing cranking (engine, generator) AGM bank. All the chargers: alternator...

Agree with this. Yes, you can buy a fancy alternator at 3x the cost of the original, if you really need it. Yes, you can also buy a good external controller and play with lowering the output current - so why from the first place did you get a bigger alternator? And why create another potential...

John, I’m almost in a similar situation, and highly interested in what you have done so far and any initial results. My boat is just a smaller (except the oversized original Volvo Penta TMD31B, 100HP), Contest 43’ cutter with lower numbers on the battery banks; 240A cranking and backup AGM and...

Nevertheless, a very nice and clean test bench! Doing some of the testing on the boat, currently docked in Palm Beach, while I live in Boston is a real pain.

Why would you want a 125A BMS? I would use dc-dc charger-controller (can also be mppt charger controller) of max 50A (Victron has a great one), for managed charging from the main AGM batteries (preferably from the cranking bank) and a simple BMS on the 3.2V cells or if you want to use a drop in...

I’m doing the same upgrade on mu cutter 43’. However, quickly realized that I must separate completely the cranking and backup batteries that will stay AGM - especially the alternator charging from the house bank. LFPs love using almost all the current possible and create an overload or worse on...

Good to know it wasn’t a post mortem of a too short life expectancy of that relay. Thanks!