Recent content by dsaint1884

Agreed, I was going to ground it but I guess I don't even have the option now. Will do. Thanks for highlighting to make sure I'm thinking about it. I can just plug into the outlets in the front for AC and run no other ground anywhere at any point, it's all going out the inverter, through my...

I had the same question and in fact on my inverter apparently they are all connected anyway. I have a Renogy 1000w inverter and I get continuity between the ground lug, the negative terminal and the AC neutral and ground (which are internally bonded). So on mine that ground lug doesn't need a...

I just got off the phone with Renogy. They said the connections and continuity than I'm seeing are normal. That it's all connected somewhere in the device. Does anyone else see this with other brands? They also said that because of this continuity, if my negative DC terminal is running to a...

Interesting. I'm not sure what to take away from that or if I should still be worried. I get continuity from AC neutral (which is internally bonded to ground) to the Negative DC terminal. I get continuity from the Grounding lug to the Negative DC terminal as well. It seems like everything is...

I thought so as well. Renogy 1000w Inverter. https://www.renogy.com/1000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter/

Without any cables on the inverter at all I used a multi-meter to test continuity at different points on the inverter. The neutral and ground for the AC side are bonded, so I do get continuity there which makes sense to me. However, on the DC side if I touch the negative DC cable connection...

Thank you

That's all very reasonable. I just want to make sure I'm going large enough to be safe as well. For this it seems like I should be able to sleep at night with 1/0 wire on batteries and to the bus bars.

The 1000w inverter came with 4awg wire out of the box. Do you have a chart or resource I could learn to reference to know if I need to switch out that 4awg for the 2awg that you suggest? Wonderfully helpful thank you. Sounds like I'd be safe to go with 1/0 wire for this system. It confuses...

I suppose that was part of my question and was curious if I could just size based on max draw or if I needed to size based on max discharge current. 1000w inverter is what I'm using and would be the largest load I have on the system. I also have a DC fuse box which can technically handle 100a...

It would not be, that would be the very max the battery BMS would even allow or that the batteries are rated for. Really I'd be pulling at max 150a because that's the largest breaker I have, anything beyond that and any line coming off the battery would be tripped. So for continuous current...

I've tried to answer this myself but there are so many tables out there it's hard to know, so I was looking for some direction. I have 2x 12v 100ah batteries in parallel. Individually they can deliver 100amps, so in parallel I'm looking to size wire for 200 amps. Everything running from the...

Thank you for all of that, super helpful. I'll make some changes to the line-up. Thanks!

So if each branch will have it's own fuse at 30amps or less within the box, and if the max aggregate current is 100amps shouldn't I size the fuse for the block as a whole accordingly? I'm not trying to beef up a specific branch with a large fuse, but trying to protect the box from the aggregate...

Thank you for catching that. This is what the specs say: Max Amps: 100A per block, 30A per circuit. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I was thinking that if I had say, three of the circuits each pulling 30a then I might get 90a or...