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I've reached out to a few RV Solar Install companies over the last 24 hours now and they have all stated the same thing for my situation. Leave everything as it is drop in the the new 200ah lithium battery and plug in the 7 pin from the truck just like I would with lead acid in the trailer...

Could I simply pull the charge fuse from the truck to kill the charge to the trailers battery then?

I'm pretty sure the PD converter charges at the 14.6 rate then drops to the resting 13.6 once the battery is fully charged. I'm sure I read that somewhere before I know that is the way the WFCO I have is when it hits that absorption mode.

That's what I figured I just wanted to make sure thanks

I'm trying to understand why it must be different just for using lithium and not lead acid...some folks say plug n play nothing different and others say you must separate them etc what harm is it to the truck or trailer to not change anything out but the battery type in this situation.

My 2011 and 2018 150 were both 30 amp fuses with that small gauge wire like Bruce has shown above...I can't recall what my 250 wire gauge was but it was also a 30amp fuse as well

Ok so all the reading I've done so far 50% of people state its a bad thing and others say they have been doing it for years ugh this does not help me

I understand what you are saying believe me I do its just frustrating when you read here as well that others don't isolate it at all and haven't for years and have been fine...it just comes down to who do you believe then that is why I'm just frustrated over this sorry for the rants ha!

Thanks guys I appreciate your help!

There is no harm in the power coming from the tow vehicle....it is just the lack of power coming from it. I don't have a dc-dc as it does not suit my style of rving at this point. The lifepo4's do charge off the tow vehicle but very little at about 7amps per hour and I'm ok with that. I have a...

Yeah I understand that as my travel days can be anywhere from 1 hour to 12 all depends on the timing and situation. Thanks Again

This is what I put in my trailer about 6 months ago and seems to be working very well charging my 200ah of lifepo4...I don't have a dc/dc charger just use the trucks regular 7 pin for charge like always but its only puts out about 7amps which I'm fine with I always carry a genny too for when...

Do you mind me asking the tow vehicle you have?

No loads with a battery disconnect right off the battery on all of the past 7 rigs I've owned over the years. The typical 12v FLA are junk IMO. Well not my opinion really when they have proven to be so with multiple rigs and multiple brands of them.

What about power tongue jack? Running off the old FLA 12v? The 7 pin charging that battery only does it last sitting for 2 weeks...most don't none ever have had. I would have went straight from the dc-dc 24 to 12 converter to the factory wiring on the tongue and dumped the FLA myself.

Hmm any vehicle I've had sit for months have had issues starting...I know so as I have 3 vehicles that sit for 2-3 months at a time while we travel the US some need jumped after that time away...rigs FLA wired like this....battery pos post direclty to blue sea disconnect to 12V system in the...

I have a 2013 travel trailer that needs a new battery so I want to switch to lithium for those overnight stops and occasional 2 night boondocking trips when traveling. Going to purchase a 200ah LifePo4 and a WF-8950L2-MBA to replace the current lead acid charger in the stock WFCO8955...I don't...

I have a 2013 travel trailer that needs a new battery so I want to switch to lithium for those overnight stops and occasional 2 night boondocking trips when traveling. Going to purchase a 200ah LifePo4 and a WF-8950L2-MBA to replace the current lead acid charger in the stock WFCO8955...I don't...

Mike Sokal has talked about this many times and again in this video....that no matter the DC to DC charger rating with todays vehicles being smart and how they regulate voltage it will always go up and down so even if you have a 30a DC to DC charger you may not always get that 30 amps he also...

The companies I contacted are large companies that are victron and battleborn authorized installers that do $20k systems all day everyday...These are not avg joe rv dealers they are rv solar and lithuim install corporations that is all they do :unsure:

Ok maybe I should have said avg Bob or no specific name at all instead of using your name Joe sorry nothing against you at all :) I appreciate all feedback just makes it hard on who to believe is correct.

Ahhh ok well that stinks then I have this : https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8950l2-mba/

Ford typically leaves it in the glove box from factory for the owner to install...Mine was installed at factory due to having the Max Tow Package

Do we get to see the finished product?

HRTKD do I need to isolate the 7pin charge to the trailer? I still want to provide power to the breakaway system.

Not sure I fully understand when you say keep the systems separate from one another...as I don't want to change anything but drop in the lithium battery and I'm just changing out the stock WFCO Lead acid charger for a new WFCO Lithium charger so when I'm plugged into shore power or my portable...

I looked at my trucks last night my 2011 F150 has a 30a fuse and the 2018 has a 25a fuse...

No I didn't mean the power tongue jack has an idle consumption whatsoever I meant using that and breakaway only for the FLA and it never getting a charge other than from the 7 pin...In my 24 yrs of owing RVs I've never had an FLA sit idle for more than 2 weeks without needing a good full charge...

Not unless I am towing and the 7 pin connector from the trailer is plugged into the truck