Recent content by Gentleman Mike

This I think. He said I'd never be drawing anywhere near 50 amps from the batteries, but think he didn't consider the fact that if the inverter is putting out 50 amps 120VAC then that's 125 amps plus whatever extra from inefficiencies from the 48 volt batt bank.

lol man... he was personally nice enough, so I'm not going to leave any review at all because it would be... a bad one.

I fixed that as soon as he left. He would only use the cables that came with the batteries which were 6 AWG (batteries are rated 50 amp continuous) despite me already having purchased larger gauge lol. He was a weird guy. I think he was just really out of his element with an inverter system...

I'm still getting the T fuse, but just out of curiosity, my 5 parallel rack batteries each have a 125 amp breaker built in. Theoretically, this should prevent arcing inside an ANL fuse in the case of some kind of catastrophic failure, right? They are wired into a fully enclosed bus bar, and from...

Thanks all, I went with a Blue Seas holder and class T fuse. It should be here in a few days.

That's a scary pic. It hasn't deformed, so far. I'll just leave it in place and keep the charge current down while making sure to not draw too heavy of a load while running off batteries until I get a replacement..

Thanks all, I'll look into Blue Sea. Do you think it would be a good idea to just not use a fuse at all for a few days until I can get a replacement? Seems to me like it's the better option vs the fuse getting stupidly hot under heavy load.

I got this 150 amp fuse to go inline on my 1/0 AWG battery cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BW4TLBST And even just charging my 48 volt batteries at 80 amps, this fuse and holder get really hot after 15 minutes! Like I can't keep my fingers on it for more than 10 seconds. I turned my charge...

Yep, they are connected internally but I think they're typically used with the output feeding a sub panel, while a transfer switch makes kind of a loop through the main panel with neutral which doesn't happen on a sub panel. If I try to think about potential current flow logically, it seems...

I hooked up a Sungold 10 kw to my home to act as a battery backup and it has AC input from the main breaker panel for passthrough and charging. The AC output goes to a gen inlet on a Reliance transfer switch because I wanted the ability to bypass the unit entirely if there is ever an issue with...

I will draw up a diagram, but I am using a manual transfer switch rather than a subpanel. Reliance 10 circuit 50 amp. There's a dual pole breaker in the main panel that provides AC input to the Sungold, then AC output to the generator input on the transfer switch. Neutral and ground are bonded...

Interesting. Thanks. I wonder what I've done wrong.

I wonder if any of those other members have one of those fancy expensive power quality meters.

I did, it's getting spot on 120 volts at the receptacle, 60 hz. I just ran an extension cord to another outlet to try a different leg but am still getting the buzz. Weird! The whole thing with an entirely different unit at work (the 5kw model) causing the buzz there too is interesting. It's...

The bond is in the main electrical panel where the utility comes in, and 63 is set to disabled which is default.