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Mmm. More gov't subsidy. Just what we need.

No loads, but it doesn't matter. When I do connect a load, its the same. Half shown on the app. Half on the shunt display.

SOLD Bought these last month with the intent of building something for my father in law. He decided on a Bluetti unit instead. So now I'm stuck with 3 of these. As I understand, they are sever rack LFP pouch cells that Jehu Garcia configured into what you see. Added PCB boards etc. The catch...

Same here. Just received mine, right out of the boxes. Haven't capacity tested or checked resistance. They all have a 3.25V SOC. I'm hoping it's nothing to, but reading some of these threads has me concerned.

Other than non split, 120v only, is this not a smoking deal? Anyone have this set up or experience with this particular unit? I'm considering an install at my in-laws home. They do not have any 220-240v appliances. Very small home with only the basics. I'm thinking it might a winner for the...

Yeah, 3rd party sellers have failed me more than not. I avoid them.

Recently put together a 12V LFP w overkill BMS for my RV. Also Installed a Renogy shunt/monitor. In the Overkill BMS app, when I manually turn on charging, the monitor shows amps drop by half and vice versa when turned off. Doesn't matter time of day or plugged into shore power, hot or cool...

Last year, I was reading replies to customers who had concerns and I got a bad vibe. Seemed like a lot of finger pointing. Constantly blaming, accusing the customer. That's not how you run a business. Glad I never bought from them them. Almost did, but just their basic battery box costs more...

Ignore that. I had just manually reset the capacity. The accurate number is the Renogy monitor. Doesn't seem matter the battery condition, nor the SOC. 10% or 95%. Same thing.

Do these inverters have to be used with sever rack batteries and their comms? Can I use my own 48v LFP battery? Seems like a shunt and monitor would work in place of comms.

Battery is sitting on bench. With a bench charger connected to P- side of the shunt, it reads 13.4V @10A. The BMS app reads 0V @0A NOW, when I tap the "charging" button, the app displays 5A and the shunt amps drop to 5. Exactly half. Hopefully that's a better explanation. This is all sorta new...

None.