Update, the volts on the batteries are steadily climbing - 14.1. I don't expect it to reach 14.6 for a couple more hours due to heavier than normal clouds. :D
Okay, checked, SCC is showing panels 56-57 v. It is late afternoon and the panels are not set up for optimal exposure, so I suppose that is okay.
I "snugged" up the other connections when I reattached them.
I assume you mean check the SCC if it goes into sleep mode while the sun is still out.
Okay, yesterday, the system held fairly steady at 13.3v until the afternoon around 3 pm. Then it started dropping, not a lot, but went down to 12.9. Nothing else had been added to the power. Checked again before going to bed and it was 12.7v. Okay, I wrote it off to being uncommonly cloudy. But...
I have 3 200w panels and 2 12v lith. 100ah batteries.
As for the no-load draw, found that this morning in the manual-<2.0a
The SCC is showing the batteries at 100% and I checked the setting on the SCC finally and it is set to lithium.
Okay, here is a new one that I wasn't paying attention to...checked the battery, flucuating around 14v right now, but the AMPS, in my opinion, is too low, flucuating around 12. Isn't that way too low for 2 x 100ah lifepo4 batteries?
I know it wasn't "truly" 100 %, but it has always lasted through the night when it read 100% and 13+ volts. In my opinion, something is wrong somewhere since it suddenly couldn't make it through the night. And yes, it started working again after I re-hooked it up for the umteenth time around...
Okay, update, as I stated before the controller went to sleep and didn't wake up again. This morning, I checked each individual panel by disconnecting each and measuring with the volt meter and they have power, so I hooked them up to the controller and voila, they worked....Once reaching 100%...
Yes, I am certain about the 13+ volts, as for the percentage, I know it is not accurate since the voltage can show a wide variety of numbers at 100%.
And no, I don't believe it hit 100% in 15 minutes, that is why I am asking about the problem. And hubris, really?!! Considering it was running...
Okay, all, the system seems to be good without the inline fuse. Don't understand why it why required in the first place. I thank all who gave suggestions and cared enough to respond, my gratitude goes out to you. Now, I have to figure out why it is draining. The RV does not have much going on...
Bought the DIY-4 package from Rich Solar at shopsolarkits. https://shopsolarkits.com/products/complete-solar-panel-kit-4 (except mine came only with 3 200w panels) and I bought the extra lithium battery, so 2 100 ah batteries. Was told this was enough to run my RV plus extras.
Hooked everything...
Do I even need a 15a inline fuse? I mean, I want to keep the system safe, but I'm in Mexico and parts are difficult to get. Can I plug the pv panels into the controller without the fuse?
How do I even tell if the fuse is bad?
I don't dismiss anyones suggestions, however, I do believe both parties should be polite and HUBRIS is not. I am here because I know exceedingly little about electricity and need assistance when there is a problem since the company I bought it from doesn't seem fit to respond in a timely manner...
Hoping someone here will answer quicker than shopsolarkits.com will. This is the email I sent them:
New problem has arisen: System completely drained the batteries overnight, no warning bell, system was at 100% 13.5 volts when I went to bed. Woke up this morning and the SCC was blank, no power...
UPDATE: Seems everything is fine with the solar system, ran the entire house no problem, the problem lies within the RV - somewhere. Had it hooked up (RV) a couple of days ago, 1 day fine, second day started losing power, went completely dead in the middle of the night. Next day, after it...
Okay, going through manual, which is not clear at all to a newbie, I found the float charge in the manual-where I would input it, but it does not clearly state which is the charge setting: bunch of different "charge" listings: such as charging limit voltage, equalizing charging voltage, boost...
Yes, neg to pos to neg to pos...for 3 panels. I made a mistake in writing, brain fart if you will, the panels are hooked pos to neg. I just went and confirmed.
Okay, checked SCC and suddenly it shows 16v and the battery symbol is flashing, as soon as turned on the inverter, it went back to 14.2 v. Tried to change values and went to history, shows it went to 17.2. Any advice?
Woke up and the SCC had no power from the batteries, so batteries must have been dead. To be certain, I flipped the inverter on and nothing, so dead batteries. Where the problem lies, I have no idea. Finally, it is charging, but where the failure occurred I have no idea.
https://shopsolarkits.com/products/complete-solar-panel-kit-4
2000w inverter-renogy, 2 x 100ah lifepo4 batteries, rich solar 60a SCC and 3 x 200w rich solar panels
Would you suggest more panels and batteries? Luckily, I live in central Mexico where we receive - if I remember correctly - around 350 days of pure sunshine. The other days, during the summer, the days are rarely solid clouds.
What does no-load current draw of inverter mean? On the specs it...
The set-up is not perfect as it is just a "get to know the system" period. The panels are flat at the back of the RV on pallets. We merely wanted to see that we had the system hooked up correctly and that it worked before we went off-grid.
And yes, the batteries, inverter, and SCC are in the...
I was going to try Hedges suggestion after the batteries showed fully charged. This morning the controller showed charging, but about 4 hours later, it went to sleep, showing the moon, and hasn't started charging since. I disconnected the PV panels and batteries and then reattached. Same...
fridge: 374 kwh a year - don't have anything more specific than whats on the sticker as it is about 10 years old and the manual, if it came with one, is long gone. The UPS has a monitor and laptop plugged into it, but those were off all night. As stated before, the system ran just fine for a...