Recent content by MikeinElease

Thank you. Lots to consider. May need to get a solar pro to help me.

Hopefully one last question. If I get a battle Born battery, I should switch the charge controller to the po4 setting correct? And will I need a BMS for just one or two batteries?

Thank you guys. I really appreciate all your advice and help. Very sad now that my entire system is down.

Module meaning the entire battery? Damn. That was a costly experiment, changing the settings.

Thanks for the info. All the zones were 4.3 to 4.4 except for the zone closest to the negative terminal. That is the area that got hot. It only reads.97 volts.

Unfortunately I dont know how to test the voltage on each string.

Thank you Joey. I may keep it outside and run wires to the battery while it is outdoors, just to see if it is still functioning. thats what I get for changing the setting. Lesson learned.

I checked closely, all the wires are in tact. what can I do to determine if the battery is safe to reinstall and run it with just 400 watts of solar to see if it still works? I just checked the batter voltage again and it is 20.7 volts.

All the little fuse wires coming off the top of the cells are in tact. No smells to note.

Any recommendations for a BMS. Please be kind here. I bought this entire system from a guy that had it in his RV. I’m still learning about this solar stuff. It’s all new to me.

Here is my battery

I I am not sure about remote switching. So I am assuming I need to research and purchase a BMS for the Tesla battery. I’m posting a pic of the battery. Thank you Joey!!!

Let me clarify. When the popping started, I went into the room where the system is housed. I heard a couple of loud popping sounds. I noticed the voltage on the charger controller was 28 volts. I shut off the battery cutoff switch and noticed the group of cells near the negative terminal...

Ok, here is the entire system: 1600 watts of solar panels. Feeding into a Victron energy smartsolar charge controller ppt 150/85 TR The positive from the battery goes through a cutoff switch and then to a victron Battery protect BP12/24 220 That feeds into the reliable electric pure sine...

So I’m guessing the Tesla battery is not a lifePo4 then? I returned the charge controller setting to the original setting. The battery voltage was 5.3 volts at the height of the disaster. But as it has been cooling off out doors, the voltage has come back up to 21 volts. So not my question...