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The other day I went to throw a couple things in my toy hauler at the storage lot. While I was there I took any look at the charge controller. It was reading 17 volts! A little back ground. Brand new 2021 forest river toy hauler with the factory 50 watt “juice pack”. Standard lead acid battery...

Yes, there is a charge controller on the wall inside the battery compartment (disregard the circle). A cheap one from India from what I can tell

So are you applying any kind of compression to the cells? I can't quite tell from the pic if you are or not. Thanks.

Ok that makes sense, but why does the inverter efficiency factor into it? Wouldn’t that only affect the output of the inverter?

That video does seem awfully like what's happening. I wonder if the factory wired the controller wrong. Guess I'll need to tear that panel off and trace the wires.

as I said above, currently the max load would be running the landing gear up and down, which is a 20a max circuit. Down the road, eventually a 3000w inverter. Max charging current would be 20a (2 10a solar in parallel). So, does it make sense to plan for the down the road eventuality or get a...

ok, I guess I figured the efficiency would come out of the AC side, so a 3000w inverter may be pulling 250 amps on the DC side, but only putting out 2550 watts on the AC side. So you're saying it will actually put out 3000w but needs 290ish amps on DC to do it? The only 2 decent sized loads I...

yes, the picture with the multimeter is directly on both battery terminals.

Well that's the thing. When I switched on the disconnect, which would put a load from the 12v fridge, radio, propane detector, etc on it, it dropped to 14.something volts. I didn't notice and bulging of the case when I was in there, but I didn't pull it out of the battery box either.

it has one. The only things that are still connected when the switch is off are the landing jacks, power stabilzers and the solar panel.

Good point, I'll have to check when I'm working on the trailer this weekend. Now that I think about it it might be 2 20amp breakers, one for each side of the jacks.

I don't have an inverter yet, but it will probably be a victron when I do get one. Unless someone changes my mind.

Good to know. Thanks!

Thanks guys! that's what I thought but I was having troubles remembering.

Possibly a stupid question, but is the amps between each cell in a 4s configuration the same as the amps being drawn overall for the whole bank? Trying to figure out what size wires/bars I need to connect the cells

Sorry to revive this old thread, but I have a similar question. I'm currently building a 4s 280ah battery and planning on building my RV system as I go. I'm curious which BMS I should get, and what size. Currently I only have a 50w solar panel on the roof and a 100w suitcase, both with 10a pwm...

Hi all, I'm in the final stages of getting my battery together, but I have a couple questions about the Victron SmartShunt I'm installing. Firstly, I have a 4s 280ah setup with an Overkill Solar bms. The shunt goes after the bms right? But it seems like then it won't be counting the internal...

Would there be any downside, when I get around to adding more batteries, to building them as 24v 8s batteries? Other than needing a DC-to-DC converter for the output to the RV, are there any other downsides?

I'm getting close to being able to install my system in my RV. I just have a basic 4s 280ah battery with overkill bms. I'm looking for suggestions on a battery enclosure and mounting for the bms. Can I see how some of you have done it for inspiration? Right now, I'm thinking of making plywood...