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P- should be treated as if it were your negative battery post. B- connects to battery, everything external to battery goes on P-.

The Kill-a-watt doesn't react fast enough to see the spike.

These seem like an insane deal on a really compelling battery for an RV... 280AH @ 12V, which could be DIY built for something like $700 with a box and full featured BMS... is there something I am missing here? (aside from not actually NEEDING more than the 125AH capacity I already have)

I'm using one of these in a travel trailer... Should I be adding a battery protect or some relay switched on mppt's load terminals to prevent over discharge? Is it pooched if it drops to 10v or whatever? Thanks.

I mean I try that next... If a $16 turd will run it, I can do that and be done lol.

It's also not really about "affording" it, it's more about what is it worth to me to be able to run that bar fridge instead of bringing a cooler of beer or whatever. Since we still have a LP main fridge inside.

Can anyone suggest a N/O relay that I could use switched via solar Load terminals to act as a makeshift low-voltage disconnect?

This is to say, does the battery degredation happen throughout the charge spectrum, or do used batteries drop faster at top/bottom of charge? Longer version: I have a Valence U27-12XP which I use as a single battery in my Travel trailer (vacation use). Label spec is 138AH, so using 90% as a...

So I was thinking I would use the LOAD terminals from my renogy Rover MPPT controller. One of the modes is a low voltage cutoff. My understanding is that it will disconnect LOAD terminals at 11.0 V which should work just dandy from a "protect the battery" standpoint. I am not really sure what my...

I mean without the right voltage, it won't charge at all. Once voltage is right, you can think of Amperage as the flow of water into a tank (and back out of a tank during discharge).

Yeah. I don't have an inverter, just DC loads.

The bestek didn't cut it either. Will probably just remove dorm fridge for longer trips without available shore power.

Have a travel trailer with an "outside kitchen" that features a 120V, 60Watt bar fridge. I am wondering what the smallest size inverter would be to run this, when figuring the initial startup load? I may end up just replacing with a cooler for as much as it is needed (have LP fridge inside)...

Hmmm, there's actually some challenges here... Victron manual states: "3. The BP is designed to allow current to flow from IN (battery) to OUT (load) terminals only. Reverse currents from OUT to IN terminals are strictly forbidden, and will damage the device. If you wish to use the BP as a...

The other big challenge with compressor driven fridges is the startup current, which is what I am trying to confirm I can get to work.

I'll try it and report back.

For $16 I can give the 400W inverter SolarRat mentioned a try. If it doesn't work I'll have to make a decision how much effort I want to expend.

I haven't yet, but I am pretty sure something with 600ish watt surge is fine, I just need the pure sine wave version.

No dice. It doesn't send the inverter into an error or anything, but the fridge doesn't start. It pulls like 400W for a few seconds (charging capacitor I assume) and then stops.

May try this next.

So I understand this right... If my solar charge controller is getting power from panels, and the fuse between the battery and the charge controller blows, the charge controller is fried? Seems the options are to leave that wire unfused, use a relay to shut off Current from panels, or... Hope...